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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 21
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Recommendations for Nowra
antforknee
16/02/2014
11:11:47 AM
Hi All
We are planning a trip to Nowra for the first time in May and are keen to hear from nowra locals and regulars. I have the new guide and read through many of the previous Nowra posts, but I am still keen to hear everyone's recommendations for the best routes between 16 and 22, and maybe great 23`s that are well bolted and would make a great project.
Also any information on dangerous routes, bad bolts or particularly ugly/wet/spoogy climbs that we should avoid. And finally, (and most importantly) the best bakery and fish and chip shops in the area. Cheers...

Duang Daunk
16/02/2014
3:29:01 PM
On 16/02/2014 antforknee wrote:
>Hi All
>We are planning a trip to Nowra for the first time in May and are keen
>to hear from nowra locals and regulars. I have the new guide and read through
>many of the previous Nowra posts, but I am still keen to hear everyone's
>recommendations for the best routes between 16 and 22, and maybe great
>23`s that are well bolted and would make a great project.
>Also any information on dangerous routes, bad bolts or particularly ugly/wet/spoogy
>climbs that we should avoid. And finally, (and most importantly) the best
>bakery and fish and chip shops in the area. Cheers...

You want fries with that?
Ok Nowra is all about convenience climbing, but really, what you see is what you get, if you bother to look up from the base of any of its short routes, not many good ones of which are in your asked for grade range.

It is sportclimb heaven. All routes are dangerous if you have to ask about them, and even in May your chosen climb grades will be spooge central as others use them for warmups.

New Nowra on the other hand, is safe as, friction as, and grade freindly as, but none of it compares to going to the Moon at that time of year.

Wide can tell you where the closest bottle shop is.


zarb
16/02/2014
3:50:53 PM
Fish n Chips: Nowra Fresh

Fav Route in the Grade Range (which for me is 14-18): Samurai Pizza Cats

pecheur
16/02/2014
7:40:42 PM
On 16/02/2014 zarb wrote:
>Fish n Chips: Nowra Fresh
>
>Fav Route in the Grade Range (which for me is 14-18): Samurai Pizza Cats
>
I really don't understand the appeal of Samurai Pizza Cats. There aren't any particularly fun moves on it, it's straight up and down, there's no views, I don't get it.

Say Korca a hundred or two metres away is a much better climb.
antforknee
16/02/2014
9:07:53 PM
Thanks zarb and pecheur, any and all recommendations are appreciated. Duang daunk, yes, fries would be great, and yes I appreciate that all climbing is dangerous especially since I am coming from a trad back ground. There are always going to be some climbs, sport and trad, and that are more dangerous than others because of bad landings, bad gear, or any of the other many variables that come into play every time we tie in. So in order to avoid any unnecessary difficulties, or me getting in the way of people who can climb harder than I can, I thought it wise the seek advice from the generally supportive climbing community. And yes, I know that most of Nowra is out of my grade range but I would love to hear about those climbs that I could try. Thanks for the recommendation about new Nowra, do you know if there is a hard copy guide? I certainly plan on trying to get out there as well.

Big G
16/02/2014
9:16:06 PM
Orca, Korca Vanderholics, the other white meat (or the 22 ish thing on that wall?), a day at the beach are all fun.

seb
17/02/2014
3:02:39 PM
There is lots of climbing at these grades in Nowra. I am just going to list what I think are a must.

15: Santa's little Helper
16: -
17: Butt head, L'arch, Hang on
18: Vanderholics, Diddy kong, Orca, Depleted gonad circumference, Silverhands, wasp in the willows
19: Gunbarrel highway, Jester
20: Je baise ma freign, Eat My Blades of Steel Motherf---er, Throbbing Pole of Love, Beavis, Sidetrack, Bromance, Café Cruiser
21: A day at the beach, Diprotodon, Shifting Sands
22: Electro Rooter, Murdoch the Horse f---er, Renovators Dream, Violent Flemm, You can't handle me Ruth, Uncertainty Pleasure
23: Beef Master, Sill Life, Crime is Art, Bondage and Discipline, Arse Master


Nowra is a funny place you either love it or you hate it.
widewetandslippery
17/02/2014
3:12:09 PM
You eat at the RSL or the Oasis takeaway on the main street. Drink at the Australian Hotel.

You climb my routes or Big Johns routes. Depleted Gonad circumference is the worlds best grade 16 bolted 1 pitch bolted route.

If you end up at Cheesdale /chedder Choss wall do "in cheese we thrust" which is on the buttress to the right on chedder choss. Awesome 17.

nmonteith
17/02/2014
4:22:25 PM
By far the best bakery in the region is in the town of Berry, about 20km (?) north of Nowra. There are actually two of them in town - the original is called the Berry Sourdough Cafe (I think) and the smaller takeaway only shop on the main street is called Milkwood. Both sell products from the same baker - and they are delicious. French quality....
http://berrysourdoughcafe.com.au/

There is also the Berry Donut Van that makes super tasty fresh donuts (on demand). Next to petrol station on the main road.
climberman
17/02/2014
4:40:37 PM
The best food in Nowra tends to be Maccas

grantoss
17/02/2014
4:44:21 PM
Neil is on the money with the bakery treats

2 more suggestions at 23 which I reckon are awesome..... speed boat wankers & iceman direct

Big G
17/02/2014
4:47:25 PM
one climb to look out for is slap & tickle - I've seen lots of hard fals on to the ledge - not 'ideal'.

seb
17/02/2014
4:58:13 PM
Maccas is not the best food in nowra.

Nowra east, has a great sushi place and a fish shop, there is also a pizza shop there the pizzas are ok. Turn left towards cuburra beach from the the highway. Opposite direction to thomos. Don't worry about the bogans they don't bite most of the time.

The wharf is a nice restaurant if something abit more up market is required. There is also a nice looking Thai place just after after crossing the river on the right side. Never been there though.

spicelab
17/02/2014
7:15:40 PM
Mortein Wall would be perfect for your pay grade as well.

Lots of worthwhile routes between 16 and 23.
latch
18/02/2014
7:58:06 AM
Hunted child is a lovely 22!

The river deli isn't to bad for coffee and food on the main street in town and Zest across the road does freshly squeezed juice.

I use to think Nowra was a bit rough and bogan until I moved to north america now kind of looks well off and educated compared to some of the places in the states.
strerror
18/02/2014
9:39:52 AM
On 16/02/2014 Big G wrote:
>Orca, Korca Vanderholics, the other white meat (or the 22 ish thing on
>that wall?), a day at the beach are all fun.

this mirrors the list I was composing when I read your post. I'd also agree with what Neil said re bakeries!
widewetandslippery
18/02/2014
9:51:07 AM
Berry doughnut van also does great hot dogs. One good, two ok if you are a big eater and three death by indigestion. I think Michael Myers ate the most doughnuts I've seen there. 10 for breakfast, twenty for afternoon tea and then we went to Rosies in Dapto.
maxdacat
18/02/2014
12:06:20 PM
On 16/02/2014 Duang Daunk wrote:

>It is sportclimb heaven. All routes are dangerous if you have to ask about
>them, and even in May your chosen climb grades will be spooge central as
>others use them for warmups.
>
>
>

I've been doing lots of pleasant routes at the OP's grades throughout summer, with very little spooge to speak of.....the mozzies on the other hand :(

grantoss
18/02/2014
1:57:49 PM
On 18/02/2014 latch wrote:
>Hunted child is a lovely 22!
>

Yeah mate well worthwhile!
antforknee
18/02/2014
3:46:10 PM
Hi Everyone,
Thank you all for the great advice. My tick list is becoming quite extensive, especially thanks for all the advice regarding good routes in areas other than Thompsons, "in cheese we trust sounds great" and I probably would have overlooked it. The same with Mortien Wall, wasn't on my radar but planning a whole morning there now.
Maxdacat thanks for the mozzie warning, we will bring gallons of rid.
Big G especial thanks for the warning on slap and tickle, I had planned to look at it but now with all the other great recommendations I can miss the grief and just focus on the classics.
Neil, Seb, WWAS, grantos, thanks for the food recommendations, i think we will turn Berry into a rest day activity so that we get time to sample as many cakes as possible.
And to everyone else who took the time to recommend routes and eateries, thank you and keep them coming, especially ones we should avoid

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 21
There are 21 messages in this topic.

 

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