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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Author
Belay flake very loose- Booroomba, central slabs
Sliianna
1/11/2013
12:59:58 PM
On "Only the Good Die Young" central slabs, booroomba.
First pitch description is
" Delicately up to belay on top of the flake" .this flake is very loose with minimal options for a belay in a different system or using wires.
The second pitch is
" 20 metres (22) Scary face climbing up to a bolt" .

When we leaned back on the anchor, one of our cams popped and we lowered about 10cm. Frightening. We were able to pull out someone's bail sling by pulling the flake outwards. This flake was tested before the belay was made and seemed solid. With 2 people, it wasn't.
Watch out.


technogeekery
1/11/2013
5:22:12 PM
Serves you right for getting on something described in the guidebook as "scary"!

:P

Erk - my hands have gone all sweaty. Thanks for the public service announcement :-)

IdratherbeclimbingM9
1/11/2013
6:11:31 PM
>scary

... and that along with the climb name 'Only the Good Die Young'.
;-)

E. Wells
1/11/2013
8:26:46 PM
Gold! Glad you lived......any booty or did U continue up?
Sliianna
5/11/2013
10:28:34 AM
Not that bold Evan! Being 2 hanging off a bad belay, Was a no fall situation and only an option for us if we had realized before and hadn't brought the second up to the belay flake. Then there is a good placement in the flake below with a few meters of real slab climbing to the first bolt.

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