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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 3 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 62
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Bushfires in the Bluies
cogsy
29/10/2013
7:57:34 PM
Hell yeah mike, what is it about first bolts in the 80s? How many routes have I seen with the first bolt at 10 metres, then half a dozen in the next 10! There's got to be a story behind that!

pedro.c
29/10/2013
8:15:53 PM
On topic

I'm looking at the radar it tells me it's raining in the Bluies. Can one of you locals confirm this? Is it enough to put the fire out?

Also

I wouldn't mind knowing the condition of the camp grounds and their facilities. Did they save the shed and dunny at Mount York? Pierces Pass camp sit must have roasted. How about Mount Wilson. Can anyone comment?
mikllaw
29/10/2013
8:41:29 PM
On 29/10/2013 E. Wells wrote:
>Nice try?!..FFS.. I did get on this route this morning and it is totally
>trad start and not 16.

You found gear! awesome, I just used the bolts, first bolts were high back then. Stupid by modern standards nd I'd certainly never get up to it now. If you were climbing a 26, getting to the first bolt could easily be 24. Or harder if we f@cked up.

If you retro it, please fix it up to modern standards

E. Wells
29/10/2013
9:11:36 PM
Roger that, given its 'unique' style it may never meet certain standards but bolt for bolt works fine (we didnt have gear)

Macciza
29/10/2013
9:24:58 PM
The question shouldn't be about first bolts from the '80s being high (by modern standards), but why are first bolts so LOW these days!! Like ones you can clip off the ground (without a stick) - what the idea behind that ? And then the next one is reached before the first one is at your ankles . . WTF? People boulder higher than that . . .
I put it down to the fact that there were no climbing gyms teaching poor techniques or filling heads with bizarre ideas about safety . . .


JMK
29/10/2013
11:05:08 PM
Back on topic

Anyone climbed up in the blueys in past week? Are there any signs closing access at say piddo or porters etc ie megalong side should be ok but can anyone confirm please. I had an unpleasant surprise on Sunday when I got to glenbrook gorge to do the oaks fire trail and saw a big sign closing access and threatening fines. I would prefer to avoid a repeat.
Cheers

JMK
29/10/2013
11:16:23 PM
Off topic

I think routes put up as mixed should remain as such. There is a disturbing trend for people to retro mixed routes. While u can not clip the bolt it is a totally different headspace and feels like cheating as you know the bolt is there. The climb loses a lot. I was at York recently and noticed that Ablutions had 2 bolts added. The original has been lifted by 10 cm so shorter people can not clip it as easily as the prior placement and so a bolt has been added below and a 3 rd near the 2 wire placements .

I applaud the replacement of old bolts but don't add more. If you need the extra bolts climb something else ie go back to Shipley etc. leave climbs as they have been enjoyed by many over the years already or pretty soon we will be like Europe with everything bolted. For those who don't know how to place trad - learn as it is so much more satisfying

Macciza
30/10/2013
1:47:22 AM
And I'll just add that a lot of those routes at Shipley actually used to be mixed routes with carrots and a bit of gear or two - And look at them now . ..
I actually got harassed once for daring to climb something there on gear alone - Got told that it was a Sport Crag by a young 'know-it-all' gymby and an older 'should-know-better' ex-tradster . . . .
PThomson
30/10/2013
7:34:59 AM
JMK - We climbed at Shipley, Porters, and Shipley Lower last Sunday, and there were no signs specifically stating the place was still closed. There was also about a hundred people out there.

JMK
30/10/2013
7:42:52 AM
Thanks Paul
martym
30/10/2013
9:53:39 AM
On 30/10/2013 Macciza wrote:
>And I'll just add that a lot of those routes at Shipley actually used to
>be mixed routes with carrots and a bit of gear or two - And look at them
>now . ..
>I actually got harassed once for daring to climb something there on gear
>alone - Got told that it was a Sport Crag by a young 'know-it-all' gymby
>and an older 'should-know-better' ex-tradster . . . .

That's hilarious... "you can't use gear here - it's a sport crag! didn't you see the sign??"
What if some of the kids start playing with your gear they could hurt themselves or god forbid become .... aid climbers!

It's like the reverse-chockosphere
onsight
30/10/2013
11:24:44 AM
Oh yeah, bolting arguments. How I miss Chockstone...

On 29/10/2013 pedro.c wrote:
>On topic
>I'm looking at the radar it tells me it's raining in the Bluies. Can one
>of you locals confirm this? Is it enough to put the fire out?

Yes we had a good soaking of rain last night. I would expect/hope so.

>Also >I wouldn't mind knowing the condition of the camp grounds and their facilities.
>Did they save the shed and dunny at Mount York?

Yes. All the facilities out there are untouched. Like I said earlier Mt York Road is still closed to non-residents at the moment although it may be reopened soon. Plenty of other camp grounds anyway.

Pierces Pass camp sit must
>have roasted. How about Mount Wilson. Can anyone comment?

The RFS map shows it burnt through Pierces, but I haven't seen it yet.



pedro.c
14/11/2013
8:50:15 PM
Is Mount York Rd open to the public yet?
onsight
14/11/2013
10:11:19 PM
On 14/11/2013 pedro.c wrote:
>Is Mount York Rd open to the public yet?

Yes it is.

Also! Thanks to the hard work of a small group of CragCare workers last Saturday, who did a lot of work stabilising Barden's approach gully and putting up signage etc, today Barden's was reopened for climbing by council. You won't be able to miss the signs but it's important that we all stay off the burnt and regeneration areas.

Looks like Mt York and all the other climbing areas out along Mt York Road will remain closed for quite a while.
climberman
14/11/2013
10:38:06 PM
Thanks crag carers.

pedro.c
15/11/2013
6:44:10 AM
Thanks Simon

Is the Mt York camp ground open?
Drake
15/11/2013
9:40:29 AM
> Is the Mt York camp ground open?

I was at Mt York last weekend (10 Nov), and nearly everything was closed and cordoned off with lots of red tape. Mt York road is open, the overlooks are open, but all of the walking tracks and all of the climbing areas are closed, including Bardens. I think the campgrounds are also closed, but my memory is a bit hazy on that one.

The closures are inconvenient but entirely reasonable, given the potential for erosion on walking paths, branch and tree falls, etc.
onsight
15/11/2013
4:40:25 PM
On 15/11/2013 pedro.c wrote:
>Is the Mt York camp ground open?

Actually it is. It looked closed on the weekend but here's text from yesterday's notice from council:
"MT YORK PICNIC AREA, FENCED LOOKOUTS & CAMPGROUND ARE OPEN"

MT YORK - OPEN AREAS:
Mt York Picnic Area and Campground
Fenced lookouts
Interpretive walk in the day use area
Obelisk Walk
Eddy Rock Lookout Loop walk from Eddy Rock - Coxs Rd
Nature Trail to Bardens Lookout
Bardens Lookout climbing area.

MT YORK - CLOSED AREAS
Berghofers Pass
Coxs Road
Lawsons Long Alley
Lockyers Line of Road
All Mt York climbing areas
Climbing areas accessed via Mt York Rd (New York, Soft Parade).

Vwills
16/11/2013
2:34:28 PM
Any info on bell access at the moment?
onsight
16/11/2013
4:24:01 PM
On 16/11/2013 Vwills wrote:
>Any info on bell access at the moment?

Definitely closed. All fire affected areas in the NP are closed and I wouldn't hold your breath.

http://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/NationalParks/parkFireClosure.aspx?id=N0004

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There are 62 messages in this topic.

 

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