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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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10:31:13 AM
Hello together, we are planning a climbing holiday in OZ from Feb to the end of April 2014. The Grampians, Arapiles and the Blue Mountains are at the top of our area list.
Now I have just found out that you can also climb at Tasmania. My question: is it really worthwhile in comparison to the areas on the mainland?
Thank you for your help.
10:36:54 AM
I think Tasmania has the best wilderness climbing in Australia. I think it's better than the blue mountains for serious trad climbing.

10:36:58 AM
In answer to your question - YES!

Tasmania has some stunning climbing...

Coles Bay - seacliff granite (sport and trad)

Ben Lommond - epic cracks

Tasman Peninsula - the Totem Pole! and lots of other seacliffs, sport and trad.

And then there are bigger adventures on places like Frenchmans Cap and Lake Huntley...

A lifetime of awesome climbing - and certainly some of the BEST seacliffs in the world.

This is the current guide (I think)

10:38:51 AM
Really good online guide here
11:08:09 AM
Thank you for your advice. Which climbing areas would you recommend for a period of ca. 8/10 days? We climb about 18 at trad routes and 20 on bolted routes

11:17:42 AM
Coles Bay - the perfect mix of great weather, stunning rock, free camping and rock literally 50m from the campsite. All trad for the grades you climb at. (Sport begins around 22 i think) -

Ben Lomond - jam jam jam trad! There is a couple of good 18s.

Hillwood - a couple of days of sport climbing fun.

Tasman Penisula - climb the Moai sea stack (grade 18) or the even bigger Candlestick (18) -

Mt Wellington - big trad cliff (some sport) right above Hobart. Organ Pipes is the most popular cliff -

That will keep you entertained!

1:01:21 PM
Dieter, liebe Grüsse aus Australien,

Is the 8-10 days just for Tasmania? It sounds like your overall trip is longer than that.

If so - will you have a car? In that case you can take the ferry from Melbourne in the evening, arriving 7am the next morning and be climbing at Coles Bay later that afternoon.

Will you be camping? The road into the camping and many of the cliffs at Coles Bay is sandy, about 3km, and I have seen normal 2wd cars in there but recommended for 4wd.

I suggest 5-7 days at Coles Bay then perhaps take 3 days to move further south and do some of the sea stacks on the Tasman Peninsula, which will be an adventure but memorable.

If instead of taking the ferry from Melbourne you were flying into Hobart and renting a car from there, then you might include Mt Wellington, although I've never climbed there.

ps Don't believe anyone who posts after me.

Eduardo Slabofvic
1:34:05 PM
You would be well advised that after you arrive in Australia, you go and ask the nearest person to show you their map of Tasmania and go from there.
3:19:00 PM
definitely not worth going to tasmania. nothing really to climb there. stay on the mainland.
9:27:47 PM
a bump, then

6:49:45 AM
FYI theres a new Selected Best guide coming out this summer, looks pretty good!! thesarvo has all the information and more you could need!!

Tassie definately has world class climbing, just not so convenient as some areas! Freycinet will be your best bet for the easier climbing. The organ pipes above hobart have some absolute gems too!
9:04:31 AM
Hullo Dieter,
a new selected best climbs guide is coming out January 2nd. It shows 850 climbs at the 25 best cliffs. Available from outdoor shops in January for $49.95 or pre-order from me for $40. email an order to

There are 12 messages in this topic.


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