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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Arapiles The Organ Pipes (General) (General) [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Author
Chains above Tannin
WM
14-Jul-2004
11:45:57 AM
The Mentz/Tempest Select guide says that double ropes are required and shows in the topo that this is a 40m rap. This is incorrect - it is a 30m rap (as stated by the NBF in their "replaced anchors" list). My 60m had ~2m spare on each strand.

Even slightly "short" 60m ropes may suffice if you swing to higher ground up the gully and/or land on the initial easy flake and solo down it (although beware that the roof leaves you hanging a bit out from the wall). YMMV but with a normal 60m you don't need to lug a 2nd rope up there.

Organ Pipe
19-Jun-2007
3:44:55 PM
I can't believe this!

I was at Araps on the weekend, and gave Tannin a go.
We'd just finished Ejeculation and downclimbed across to the base of Tannin. I figued that while we were in the area I'd give it a try. Up until this moment the hardest climb I've lead on trad was a 16.

My belayer and I only had his 60 meter with us and on reading the guide, I realised that I would not be able to rap from the chains. As my belayer was not keen to try seconding, climbing past the chains and walking off was not an option either as my gear would be left dangling all over the face.

So I figured I'd see how far I could get up the wall, then downclimb and clean.
I was in a really confident mood, and the gear was far better than I was expecting, so I quickly found my self past the lip. The downclimb was a bit more challenging than I was expecting, particularly due to a wire I'd placed prior to the traverse under the roof. I'd set it really hard and it sapped alot of time trying to dislodge it one armed.
Long story short, I made it back down safely and was stoked and confident that Tannin would be my first tick for the next trip.

Then I log onto Chockstone and read that I could have completed it with the 60m rope we had at the time!!! AARRGGGHHH!!!!!!!!
TLockwood
19-Jun-2007
5:58:04 PM
Were 60m ropes common place at the time of printing of the mentz/tempest quide? (i honestly dont know) Hence the suggestion for double ropes.
Fish Boy
19-Jun-2007
9:07:39 PM
I would imagine that since other locations at Araps in that guide have 60 metre raps listed, then yes Timothey, 60 metre ropes would have been common enough.
TLockwood
19-Jun-2007
9:55:02 PM
my apologies for not having a guide close to hand. I'll be goin to burnley after our exam tomorrow if ur interested n dont have work.
maxdacat
19-Jun-2007
10:39:36 PM
Bummer....if your hardest lead to date was a grade 16 the you up & downclimbed a grade 19 cleanly then well done!

Tannin eases off after the bulge so you should get it next time no worries....another good 19 to try there is Lemmington.

bent
19-Jun-2007
11:04:20 PM
I've watched a single 60 just make the deck with rope stretch.
Twin 60's work for a full length abseil - missing the second rap above Didgeridoo / Horn Piece - but the rope can get caught in the tree and there's an array of rocks to pull down off the ledge so it's not a wise move on a crowded day.
kieranl
19-Jun-2007
11:12:26 PM
On 19/06/2007 maxdacat wrote:
>Tannin eases off after the bulge so you should get it next time no worries....another
>good 19 to try there is Lemmington.
I'd disagree with this one. IMHO the upper wall is the technical crux and has been the scene of many whippers.

On 19/06/2007 bent wrote:
>Twin 60's work for a full length abseil - missing the second rap above Didgeridoo / >Horn Piece - but the rope can get caught in the tree and there's an array of rocks to >pull down off the ledge so it's not a wise move on a crowded day.

Please don't do the full-length abseil down the gully- the abseil traffic will destroy the vegetation that is stabilising the top part of the Tannin gully. Twenty years ago there was a rap anchor at the base of Tannin and the gully was devoid of vegetation and there was frequent rockfall whenever people climbed on the Red Wall. This is the main reason the rap anchor was moved to the top of Horn-Piece


Organ Pipe
20-Jun-2007
8:41:39 AM
On 19/06/2007 maxdacat wrote:
>....another good 19 to try there is Lemmington.

Yeah this is definetly on my wishlist after a bit of commentary on a recent thread.

On 19/06/2007 maxdacat wrote:
>IMHO the upper wall is the technical crux and has been the scene of many whippers.

I was afraid of this. The guide says something like "continue up with growing concern" of this section, which made me contemplate whether this was actually the crux. I began my downclimb just above the roof, so probably missed the crux.

Oh well, I'm going to give it everything I've got next time anyway.

cruze
20-Jun-2007
8:43:01 AM
On 19/06/2007 kieranl wrote:
>On 19/06/2007 maxdacat wrote:
>>Tannin eases off after the bulge so you should get it next time no worries....another
>>good 19 to try there is Lemmington.
>I'd disagree with this one. IMHO the upper wall is the technical crux
>and has been the scene of many whippers.
>

Second that. I thought it was all over and went cruising on only to backtrack and have to work it out.

bent
20-Jun-2007
4:24:18 PM
>Please don't do the full-length abseil down the gully- the abseil traffic
>will destroy the vegetation that is stabilising the top part of the Tannin
>gully. Twenty years ago there was a rap anchor at the base of Tannin and
>the gully was devoid of vegetation and there was frequent rockfall whenever
>people climbed on the Red Wall. This is the main reason the rap anchor
>was moved to the top of Horn-Piece
>
Point taken Kieran - I promise I was careful but nonetheless I won't do it again.
TLockwood
20-Jun-2007
9:54:26 PM
On 19/06/2007 kieranl wrote:
> IMHO the upper wall is the technical crux and has been the scene of many whippers.

I definately agree, the moves are somewhat off balance and the gear (wires) perhaps a little fiddly or hard to find (vague memory tho).
Fish Boy
21-Jun-2007
10:02:22 AM
I'll join the club and agree the the upper wall is quite sketchy...if your gonna fall, it's from here.

oweng
21-Jun-2007
11:08:23 AM
For reference, here are some videos of a particularly handsome and dashing climber on the route....

http://www.chockstone.org/Arapiles/TanninPart1.m1v

http://www.chockstone.org/Arapiles/TanninPart2.m1v

I found the 1st half to the rooflet straightforward.

The move of the rest just above the rooflet I found the crux (balancy).

The top wall I had no problems with. The gear got harder to find, but I fond the moves ok.

Eduardo Slabofvic
21-Jun-2007
11:16:42 AM
Tannin is in my top 3 favourite routes at the mount. I recon I've done it 20 times or more, so my
apologies for my contribution to the chalk glaze on the first half.
kieranl
21-Jun-2007
7:43:24 PM
On 20/06/2007 bent wrote:

>Point taken Kieran - I promise I was careful but nonetheless I won't do
>it again.
That's fine. I just wanted to make sure people knew that abseiling the gully wasn't a good idea. Most people would have no idea what that gully was like 20 years. Belaying below Dirge or Hornpiece was quite dangerous if anyone was climbing on the Red Wall. There was one straggly bush remaining at the base of the upper gully and continual showers of dust and stones would come down. I'm actually quite amazed at how much vegetation has returned up there.
Also, the rap anchor at the base of Tannin was a single channel peg (soft iron equivalent of 3/4 angle) which came out with a few light taps.
A single 60m on Tannin would be brilliant : one rope, two raps to ground.

Organ Pipe
23-Jul-2007
11:30:58 AM
Well I just got back from a fantastic weekend at Araps!

I wont hyjack the thread too much here with a full trip report, but on Saturday arfernoon as the sun was setting I ticked Tannin as I promised myslef I would earlier in this thread.

Man-O-Man this climb is great. Definetly worth the *** IMO.

I did it on a single 60 meter, and had a little bit of slack at the bottom after the rap to play with.


On 20/06/2007 TLockwood wrote:
>On 19/06/2007 kieranl wrote:
>> IMHO the upper wall is the technical crux and has been the scene of
>many whippers.
>
>I definately agree, the moves are somewhat off balance and the gear (wires)
>perhaps a little fiddly or hard to find (vague memory tho).

I have to agree with TLockwood and kieranl in their assessment here.
"Ballancy" would be a good way to describe it I think.

There are 17 messages in this topic.

 

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