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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Author
Super classic easy/big routes in the Dolomites
J.C.
23/09/2013
9:41:35 AM
Headed there tomorrow for a couple weeks of freefall action, looking for something awesome, big and very easy (15/16 tops) with bolts to run up if we have a windy day.. any suggestions?

Eduardo Slabofvic
23/09/2013
10:02:22 AM
Hmm... big, easy, and bolts. I suppose you you want solid rock as well?
Cam McKenzie
23/09/2013
11:11:51 AM
You won't find many routes with bolts in the Dolomites with crusty pegs being favoured. There are the occasional harder routes which have bolts but they tend to be sporting rather than sporty.

As for big easy routes, the Fedele / Dibona route on the Sass Pordoi is a pretty awesome day out (about 800m, 20 pitches from memory). Its crux is maybe 16ish. Lots of scrambly stuff with a few technical pitches in between. You could simul climb a fair bit of it. Lots of fixed gear (often leading in the wrong direction), but you'd need trad gear as well.

You can walk off at the big scree ledge about 2/3 of the way up after about 12 pitches.
maxdacat
23/09/2013
1:31:09 PM
How about the Comici.
martym
23/09/2013
4:13:58 PM
If you're able to get to the Arco Valley - check out "Sonnenplatte" - 500m via Claudia grade 5b (turn right for 6a+ if you get bored)

There's a couple of nice routes in the Vigo di Fassa area - try Riffugio Vajoleta on the way to the Vajolet towers..

Otherwise you could head to Cortina and try Tre Cime or Cinque Torre - though the bolts are spaced, and the easier the climb, the less bolts.

If it's windy and you still want to get out doors - go via-ferratering...

Get a guidebook... for really long routes, you'll need to climb at least 6a...

Jamesmc
23/09/2013
5:32:10 PM
You might have left it a bit late in the season JC.

It snowed three times in the last ten days in the Tyrol.

JamesMc

IdratherbeclimbingM9
23/09/2013
7:52:47 PM
He wants to BASE off the top gents, which might affect the route choices you are offering him...
martym
24/09/2013
2:29:37 PM
On 23/09/2013 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>He wants to BASE off the top gents, which might affect the route choices
>you are offering him...

Hmm, then while it's not my area of expertise - I still think Tre Cime would be a great option... though you'd have a crowd...
widewetandslippery
24/09/2013
3:09:15 PM
At tofana looking at the cliff there is a 800m grade IV down the left hand end put up with a guide and a princess in the 1800s. classic, its in the guide books.
GoUp!
24/09/2013
5:35:31 PM
Off hand that would be the Dimai-Eotvos route. He could then wander over and launch off the Pilastro or one of the other steep pillars on the SE face. Nice beer at the nearby Rifugio too!
J.C.
25/09/2013
9:09:58 PM
On 23/09/2013 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>He wants to BASE off the top gents, which might affect the route choices
>you are offering him...

Nah there's plenty of spots for us to jump, I'm purely looking to get out and cover some miles on rock, drag my buddy up something and start getting fit for the winter in Chamonix! I would rather trad but my rack hasn't arrived yet!

Thanks for the suggestions everyone!

There are 11 messages in this topic.

 

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