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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links

VIC Arapiles Grotto Wall / Voodo Gully (General) Voodo Buttress [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ]

Author

Voodoo Buttress route

stuart

12/07/2006
12:37:09 PM

I'm sure this has come up and been answered before but I couldn't find it on the site.

I'm interested in the name + grade of the route on Voodoo that goes up two-three metres to the right of Chinese Algebra with a couple of bolts. Judging by the thecrag.com, it's Full Frontal, a 21. Is this correct? Anybody have the FA details?

S

Dave C

12/07/2006
12:43:17 PM

Full Frontal is a traverse of the front face (no bolts as I recall) so it's not that.

nmonteith

12/07/2006
1:31:40 PM

All your answers are here!

http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=15&MessageID=1205&Replies=1

stuart

12/07/2006
2:35:09 PM

Aah, yes, there's the info - all but the name. Didn't have any beta to base it on when I did it, but felt 20ish to me. Definitely worth a star.

It seemed to me the hard move at the top is easily side-stepped - from the ledge step 1 metre to the RHS and cruise up on the prominent blocks. For me the coolest move was the one at the first bolt - a nice scuttle up, out and over on some nice crimps. Also, the first bolt is one of those inconvenient fat-boys you come across - I didn't have a plate wide enough to fit over it.

There are 4 messages in this topic.