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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Arapiles Grotto Wall / Voodo Gully (General) Voodo Buttress [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Voodoo Buttress route
12:37:09 PM
I'm sure this has come up and been answered before but I couldn't find it on the site.

I'm interested in the name + grade of the route on Voodoo that goes up two-three metres to the right of Chinese Algebra with a couple of bolts. Judging by the, it's Full Frontal, a 21. Is this correct? Anybody have the FA details?

Dave C
12:43:17 PM
Full Frontal is a traverse of the front face (no bolts as I recall) so it's not that.

1:31:40 PM
All your answers are here!
2:35:09 PM
Aah, yes, there's the info - all but the name. Didn't have any beta to base it on when I did it, but felt 20ish to me. Definitely worth a star.

It seemed to me the hard move at the top is easily side-stepped - from the ledge step 1 metre to the RHS and cruise up on the prominent blocks. For me the coolest move was the one at the first bolt - a nice scuttle up, out and over on some nice crimps. Also, the first bolt is one of those inconvenient fat-boys you come across - I didn't have a plate wide enough to fit over it.

There are 4 messages in this topic.


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