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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Author
Climbing North America in September

ado_m
9/07/2013
7:33:42 PM
Scenario: You have a month in North America in September, and a decent budget. Climb moderate sport or trad only (say, sub 24 sport, sub 21 trad). Like safe climbing only, no big walling or unprotected or chossy rubbish. No bouldering. What are the top destinations for climbing in US and Canada at that time, preferably the Arapalies of the Americas where I don't need a car/van, but can get if required. Any advice welcomed.

Ado
Drake
9/07/2013
8:06:51 PM
Yosemite, Yosemite, and Yosemite. September is great climbing weather in the valley, and there are loads of classics besides the big walls of El Cap and Half Dome. The free shuttle gets you to the base of all the major climbing areas. It's a climbing mecca for a reason.
mikllaw
9/07/2013
9:06:05 PM
anywhere but yosemite...
(I'm sure there are some good climbs there but)
Joshua tree is worth a day at least (for the scenery and acclimatisation)
Bishop has a good variety of stuff even if you don't like bouldering
The long routes at Red Rock Las Vegas are great
Cracks at Indian creek
Rockies/colorado have an amazing array of climbing
The Red
The New
Senec a (fun but shattered and undergraded)
The Gunks

User Name
10/07/2013
10:34:46 AM
Red Rocks Nevada. SO good, a great mix of sport and trad single and multi pitch in those grades and a beautiful place to climb. But you probably want a car to make it easer to get to strip clubs and all you can eat buffets in Las Vegas!
jono_1
10/07/2013
3:30:00 PM
What about Squamish? Fly into Vancouver, 1.5 hr bus to Squamish and 30 minute walk to campground under the wall and no crowds of tourists like Yosemite.
james
10/07/2013
4:13:33 PM
Squampton in September has a pretty fair chance of being wet. Desert areas in the States would be starting to cool down so probably a safer bet.

rodw
10/07/2013
4:36:07 PM
For sport - limestone- American fork & rock canyon - Utah - easy to get to just fly into Salt lake city.

ado_m
12/07/2013
11:28:22 AM
Thanks all - Squamish it is, followed by strippers and buffets in vegas.

Assume I don't need a car for squamish?
james
13/07/2013
12:45:10 AM
you can get by without a car. The Chief campground is a couple km from town, lots of climbing right at the campground.
If you get rain, check the forecast for Penticton & go check out Skaha - that's where everyone goes to escape the rain. You'll need a car for Skaha, 4-5hr drive from Squamish.
Not sure I'd recommend anyone go all the way from Australia just for Skaha, but there are some really good routes there & its worth checking out if you are in the area.
mikllaw
13/07/2013
7:08:46 AM
On 12/07/2013 ado_m wrote:
>Thanks all - Squamish it is, followed by strippers and buffets in vegas.

after the strippers, remember to stay away from little single pitch sport routes and aim for the long classics in the canyons each day. Also, when I was there, a howling wind came after lunch that I didn't have enuff clothing for.

gnaguts
13/07/2013
8:56:56 AM
On 13/07/2013 mikllaw wrote:
>after the strippers, remember to stay away from little single pitch sport
>routes and aim for the long classics in the canyons each day. Also, when
>I was there, a howling wind came after lunch that I didn't have enuff clothing
>for.

Forgot the jacket after your act?
mikllaw
13/07/2013
10:21:22 AM
On 13/07/2013 ODH wrote:
>On 13/07/2013 mikllaw wrote:
>>after the strippers, remember to stay away from little single pitch sport
>>routes and aim for the long classics in the canyons each day. Also, when
>>I was there, a howling wind came after lunch that I didn't have enuff
>clothing
>>for.
>
>Forgot the jacket after your act?

ODH
nyuk nyuk.
Actually Ness made me go to a Blue Man show and we were given pokie tokens, I always win, in this case 2 pairs of boots and some climbing gear

There are 12 messages in this topic.

 

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