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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Nikita - Shipley Lower

BundyBear
21/06/2013
2:40:15 PM
So what's the beta on this ? Is it still 70m or less with the rebolt ?

Phil S
21/06/2013
3:17:13 PM
It's good, Bundy and even a bit soft after the start. I lowered from the anchors on a 60m rope with no drama. It all seemed pretty unambiguous. Steve's variants on the L look pretty good too.

Macciza
21/06/2013
3:18:41 PM
Can't see that a rebolt would change the length of the climb . . .
2 pitches, I think you could even rap down it rather than the waterfall . . .
May have had optional gear somewhere, not sure, remember having fun on one of the routes down there . . .

Benjenga
21/06/2013
3:20:08 PM
When were you thinking about trying it? It's high on my hit list as well.
mikllaw
21/06/2013
5:56:08 PM
easy to walk along the base now, there are a few good things about 60 m right also
cogsy
21/06/2013
7:00:50 PM
I rebolted it about 5 years ago. It's all bolts. I'm surprised if you could get off it with a 60m rope...Jules was just making it with a 70 the other day.
The whole area bakes in the sun... it's a bit like climbing at Bowens. It's about 10 minutes further walk from the Blackheathen wall, heading under the waterfall.
Nikita is a little longer than it used to be, because we bolted the direct start on the little wall below the old start, to make it a more comfortable belay (ie from the ground instead of the ledge 8 metres up.
The top pitch isn't worth worrying about.... It's 20 grades easier than the rest of the route, so just lower off the new anchor.
The routes to the left are... "the unforgiven, 27" a really awesome old route of Mikls, "the Outlaw" a 29 by Steve G which is apparently very hard and thin and long. To the right is a 30 that Steve did which is absolutely desperate and quite run out!
There are 4 more good routes about 40 metres further on, all on rings. The 24 (sausages and lightbulbs) and 26 (Brisket tugger) are really great, and the 22 is a bit exciting and weird. Moniqe freed the project at 28....it's cruxy!
If you've got a 70m rope and lots of quickdraws you'll have no worries. (I think Nikita has 18 draws....we did it last week.)

E. Wells
22/06/2013
6:00:36 PM
Read the guide, it should hint at where the most effort is required on nikita. Sausages and lightbulbs is a much better route in my experience although I didnt onsight it. A tad hard for a meter or two but excellent.
PThomson
22/06/2013
8:25:14 PM
It's on my hitlist as well, Bundy Bear. I sence a posse forming!

There are 8 messages in this topic.

 

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