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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 21
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Ebor Gorge
mabsydney
30/04/2013
7:34:49 PM
Can anyone who has actually climbed there tell me what the climbing is like at Ebor Gorge in the Northern Tablelands? Thinking of heading up there in June for some low to middle grade trad. Thanks.

pmonks
1/05/2013
9:48:39 AM
Climbed there in 1997 or so - trip notes are here and it looks like there's a recently updated guide online now as well.

In summary, it's a nice spot that you'll almost certainly have to yourself, particularly in June when it'll be f'ing freezing - Ebor is 1300m ASL and is cold (read: gets snow) in winter. The climbing itself is mostly short (15m or less), quite dirty (not a huge amount of traffic) but the cracks are fun while they last. If you set up a fixed rap rope you can get a bunch of pitches done in a day.

Hawkman
1/05/2013
12:41:51 PM
Ive climbed there a few times. Pretty much what Peter said is still the case. good, short climbs. They are in the sun though so might make it bearable in the cold (depending on which breakaway you climb at). The more popular routes are not to dirty

Steve
Gov Junky
1/05/2013
8:05:59 PM
On 30/04/2013 mabsydney wrote:
>Can anyone who has actually climbed there tell me what the climbing is
>like at Ebor Gorge in the Northern Tablelands? Thinking of heading up there
>in June for some low to middle grade trad. Thanks.

I live in Armidale and put up many of the routes during the 70's and 80's. The surroundings are picturesque with the crags overlooking two waterfalls. There are 2 parking areas at the top with toilets. There is a pub in Ebor which is just accross the river - also a cafe. The crag doesn't get as much attention these days as local climbers seem to be more interested in bouldering. As a result the base of the crag has become quite overgrown in places due to the last two particularly rainy years up here. The rock is formed in irregular columns and there is a broad range of grades. It is a great place to brush up on your hand jamb technique as most of the climbs are crack climbs. The height of climbs ranges from about 5mtrs to about 20mtrs. There aren't that many climbs below about grade 14. Pro on the climbs between grades 14 and 21 is generally good but above that you're often talking about desperately hanging around trying to frig in small wires.
If you like, send me a PM and I'll give you my email adress. Access to most of the other crags around here demands local knowledge and perhaps I can help.
mabsydney
1/05/2013
8:14:23 PM
Thanks for the info guys, I hadn't considered that it would be so cold there in June. Short days in the sun hopefully!

SteveC
2/05/2013
1:20:10 PM
Ebor gorge was formative in my climbing development. I went up to armidale in my first year of climbing with some friends to try to be boulderers. After 2 days of not being boulderers at Armidale we went to Ebor gorge and became crack climbers!
We spent a whole day wrestling with those short varied little cracks at the closest crag to the waterfall. It was immense fun.
Like P monks said, set up a rap rope from a tree at the top and you'll get through quite a bit more efficiently, but the scramble track down isn't hard either, its only 12 metres after all!
mabsydney
2/05/2013
9:57:26 PM
Cheers, it sounds perfect - just need a sunny day. A fun day of climbing cracks - nothing better.
technogeekery
3/05/2013
9:11:36 AM
It does look like fun for a few days to work on crack skills. Will have to include it on my northern NSW tour...

pmonks
3/05/2013
9:25:03 AM
Some (low res) photos to get you enthused:

First Breakaway




WM on Seizure, 12m 15




Greg A on Caballero, 13m 16




Yours truly on Snakes and Ladders, 12m 13




WM on Fear and Loathing, 15m 17




Greg A on Twist, 10m 16




WM on Rooflet, 15m 19


Gov Junky
3/05/2013
10:22:22 AM
On 3/05/2013 pmonks wrote:
>Some (low res) photos to get you enthused:

For lots of photo's of Northern Tablelands climbing, check out Jack Lattanzio's (WogDog) three photo pages on thecrag.com at http://www.thecrag.com/climber/10125895/photos
anthonycuskelly
3/05/2013
12:19:05 PM
Woah. I think I've actually done some of those routes (esp. Fear & Loathing) on my one trip to Armidale...
Gov Junky
3/05/2013
12:47:39 PM
On 3/05/2013 anthonycuskelly wrote:
>Woah. I think I've actually done some of those routes (esp. Fear & Loathing)
>on my one trip to Armidale...

Fear & Loathing - My favourite climb at Ebor at that grade. I must have done it a gazillion times.

Big G
3/05/2013
12:47:46 PM
the rack being carried on rooflet looks enormous - it'd take a piece every .5m to use it all up!!
Gov Junky
3/05/2013
12:52:44 PM
On 3/05/2013 Big G wrote:
>the rack being carried on rooflet looks enormous - it'd take a piece every
>.5m to use it all up!!

A couple of big hexes (Yes, I'm ancient) under the roof and a few wires for the cracks before and after generally suffice. But I guess its easier just to carry the lot to save sorting at the start of each climb. - You can do a lot of short climbs at Ebor in a day! Also the climber seems to be suffering from a case of 'Friend deficiency'. ( One Friend = how many pieces of old gear? )

IdratherbeclimbingM9
3/05/2013
1:49:56 PM
On 3/05/2013 Gov Junky wrote:
>( One Friend = how many pieces of old gear? )

Still only equals one placement even if you get more options in that placement.
;-)

pmonks
3/05/2013
2:35:27 PM
On 3/05/2013 Big G wrote:
>the rack being carried on rooflet looks enormous - it'd take a piece every
>.5m to use it all up!!

Now now - doesn't everyone cart up everything and the kitchen sink in their first couple of years of climbing?
kieranl
3/05/2013
2:44:03 PM
On 3/05/2013 pmonks wrote:
>On 3/05/2013 Big G wrote:
>>the rack being carried on rooflet looks enormous - it'd take a piece
>every
>>.5m to use it all up!!
>
>Now now - doesn't everyone cart up everything and the kitchen sink in
>their first couple of years of climbing?
Oh. Was I supposed to stop carrying all that at some stage?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
3/05/2013
3:11:06 PM
On 3/05/2013 kieranl wrote:
>On 3/05/2013 pmonks wrote:
>>On 3/05/2013 Big G wrote:
>>>the rack being carried on rooflet looks enormous - it'd take a piece
>>every
>>>.5m to use it all up!!
>>
>>Now now - doesn't everyone cart up everything and the kitchen sink in
>>their first couple of years of climbing?
>Oh. Was I supposed to stop carrying all that at some stage?

Perhaps you are like me kieranl, as I continue to carry it and use the excuse that it keeps me fit; apart from the benefits of not only having the right gear required but also the mental agility to obtain it off a clustered rack!

pmonks
3/05/2013
3:57:45 PM
On 3/05/2013 Gov Junky wrote:
>For lots of photo's of Northern Tablelands climbing, check out Jack Lattanzio's
>(WogDog) three photo pages on thecrag.com at http://www.thecrag.com/climber/10125895/photo

Nice! Some of those Gara Gorge routes look great! How far downstream are they? Also, didn't Inertia fall down around 2000 or so?
Gov Junky
3/05/2013
4:01:42 PM
On 3/05/2013 kieranl wrote:

>Oh. Was I supposed to stop carrying all that at some stage?

I seem to remember that carrying extra gear in the form of a pair of ascenders paid off on 'Close to the Edge' Kieran ;)

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There are 21 messages in this topic.

 

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