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Crag & Route Beta

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Best 10-15s at Araps


andyR

26-Jun-2006
6:32:35 PM

For the best 10 - 15s at Araps, well.... I'd have to have a good look at the guide and I can't be stuffed! Off the top of my head, for GREAT gear and good moves, surely you can't go past the FIRST PITCH of LIBRETTO in the Organ Pipes? Also, from memory.....
Blockbuster 11 on The Bluffs is unreal, like UNREAL, great position bomber pro, rap off!! Then rap again..
Pedro 10 Fleece Wall is really good - and you can rap off! (not crap off as I almost typed!)
Bard 12 we all know where that is, is unreal
Horn Piece 13 Organ Pipes is a really good testing lead at the grade
Oh yeah, Trapeze 10 Castle Crag good climb, and you can rap off this too!
Piccolo 11 Organ Pipes is a beaut
Muldoon 13 on The Atridae is unreal
Megalomaniac 14 on Mari Buttress is unreal
D Minor 15 Organ Pipes is unreal
Toccata 14? 15? Organ Pipes is unreal
Scarlett Sage 15 is close to camp short and quite good
Witch Hunt 15 out at Mitre is pretty good
Open Road 15 and Pibroch 15 Yesterday Gully and both really worth doing at 15
Kaiser 15 Tiger Wall has a pretty cool traverse and a great position - tho' the last pitch is a bit disappointing, still a cool way to get to Flinders Lane, from where you can to Ivan to access Blockbuster, which is unreal...

darkxst

19-Sep-2006
9:21:31 AM

anyone know what the gear is like on yo-yo ?

pharmamatt

19-Sep-2006
9:38:35 AM

why do you ask tim? i haven't done yet, but i'm hoping to tick it next week!

matt


doc

19-Sep-2006
9:42:07 AM

How about Mantis near Fang Butress.
A great move throught the roof if you are a little shorter.

darkxst

19-Sep-2006
9:48:08 AM

hey matt, nowra trip isnt happening now, heading to araps instead.. will see you up there!


billk

19-Sep-2006
11:38:21 AM

On 19/09/2006 darkxst wrote:
>anyone know what the gear is like on yo-yo ?

If my memory serves me correctly, it's mostly very good.

I didn't lead the crux pitch. I think you've got two or three tricky moves getting to the pin, then you've gotta go for several hardish moves before you get a stance to get more gear in.

The RHV of pitch 3 is a hex eating fist crack. Don't know about the gear on the LHV (which I think is Gr18).

james

19-Sep-2006
11:45:40 AM

>I didn't lead the crux pitch. I think you've got two or three tricky moves
>getting to the pin, then you've gotta go for several hardish moves before
>you get a stance to get more gear in.
>
>The RHV of pitch 3 is a hex eating fist crack. Don't know about the gear
>on the LHV (which I think is Gr18).

The gear is bomber all the way up. The 18 LHV is awesome - more technical than pumpy, lots of stemming stances to place gear.


cruze

19-Sep-2006
1:19:33 PM

Thought the gear on Yo-Yo was more than adequate. At crux there is a pin which has smallish cams/wires around it as well. I thought the third pitch was classic old(er) school corner. The fourth pitch was soured by occasionally spooky rock. A little harder than I expected. Maybe you could just do the 45m rap off after P3 if you didn't want to do anything up above.


neats

19-Sep-2006
1:33:13 PM

On 19/09/2006 doc wrote:
>How about Mantis near Fang Butress.
>A great move throught the roof if you are a little shorter.

I agree! I made a few attempts at the roof at first, it was a bit tricky being a short ass myself, but fun!


Climboholic

19-Sep-2006
2:12:47 PM

Hey Tim,
I was planning on doing YoYo too. Maybe we could team up?

Then I was thinking about giving Missing Link another crack. It has been my nemesis since I jumped off before the first wire and landed on Paul's head. It flipped me and I landed on my shoulder. No injury. I've been psyching myself up for it ever since.

darkxst

19-Sep-2006
2:59:11 PM

hey andrew
sounds good!
I would be keen to second Missing Link so long as you dont land on my head ;).

deadpoint

20-Sep-2006
9:34:10 AM

YoYo is great fun, wires near the pin, stem a bit to reach good hold. LHV is stemming with hands jammed in the crack, felt secure even though I can't jamB, was a bit tricky to get the gear in.

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