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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo (General) (General) (General) [ Mt Buffalo Guide | Images ] 

Author
Update to Mt Buffalo Guidebook 5th Edition

ajfclark
14/02/2013
4:17:46 PM
Happy Valentine's Day people. I know you love guidebook updates so I've just merged all the notes people have sent me and things I noticed during the recent club trip to buffalo.

You can download a copy (26m) here.

Any comments or corrections please submit them to to the email address in the pdf or reply here and I'll work them as time allows.
simey
15/02/2013
12:11:06 PM
Looks good Andrew. Certainly a valuable resource.

BTW, any topos to big multi-pitch routes (such as the North Wall) would be worth making full page, although I am guessing you were given small files that won't reproduce any bigger.

The comments regarding Bannisters Rush suggesting that it could be three stars might be stretching it a bit.

Concerning North Wall Routes, it would be worth having a list describing the current status of many of the free routes. I know that most of them have grown over considerably since they were first cleaned and climbed and I suspect many of them are now unclimbable. Even routes like Defender of the Faith (which gets climbed a lot) was filthy a few years ago and pretty unpleasant. I heard all the pins had fallen out of Mussolini (28) when Zac Vertrees and Malcolm Matheson went to climb it a few weeks ago and they ended up having to jug back out. They did however climb El Supremo/Lebensraum link-up (25) which wasn't exactly clean but was still climbable. It would be worth talking to those guys as well as Steve Monks, the Cossey boys and whoever else to get their opinions on various other routes regarding how clean/dirty they are.

Even other routes around the place are worth a mention in regard this. For example 'Singer' Smith gave Status Quo (21) a good clean-up in recent years which returns this climb to being a must-do as opposed to being a must-avoid.



ajfclark
15/02/2013
2:29:23 PM
On 15/02/2013 simey wrote:
>Looks good Andrew. Certainly a valuable resource.
>
>BTW, any topos to big multi-pitch routes (such as the North Wall) would be worth making full page, although I am guessing you were given small files that won't reproduce any bigger.

Ah, yeah I forgot to tag the Free Reign topo for fullpage. I haven't checked but I think it was high enough resolution. There's probably another I've forgotten too, maybe Quartz Route.

>The comments regarding Bannisters Rush suggesting that it could be three stars might be stretching it a bit.

I think that came in from Joe's previous update. I've not been on it so I can't comment.

>Concerning North Wall Routes, it would be worth having a list describing the current status of many of the free routes. I know that most of them have grown over considerably since they were first cleaned and climbed and I suspect many of them are now unclimbable. Even routes like Defender of the Faith (which gets climbed a lot) was filthy a few years ago and pretty unpleasant. I heard all the pins had fallen out of Mussolini (28) when Zac Vertrees and Malcolm Matheson went to climb it a few weeks ago and they ended up having to jug back out. They did however climb El Supremo/Lebensraum link-up (25) which wasn't exactly clean but was still climbable. It would be worth talking to those guys as well as Steve Monks, the Cossey boys and whoever else to get their opinions on various other routes regarding how clean/dirty they are.

Thanks, I'll see who I can track down.

>Even other routes around the place are worth a mention in regard this. For example 'Singer' Smith gave Status Quo (21) a good clean-up in recent years which returns this climb to being a must-do as opposed to being a must-avoid.

Ah, I think Wendy mentioned that to me also. I should've scribbled down a note at the time.

There are 3 messages in this topic.

 

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