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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Anticoagulant Extension, The Cathedral
Olbert
21/01/2013
9:41:10 AM
Does anybody know much about this? I could only find one reference to it online on the Sydney Rockies guide and that seemed like the usual ridiculous sandbag suggesting that the crux of the entire route is on the original. Has anyone done it? Is it even possible?
mikllaw
Online Now
21/01/2013
11:07:50 AM
24
pretty standard climbing, now rebolted
easier than the regular anticoagulant which finished halfway up the wall (which seems desperate now)(how was this ever graded 21!)
Olbert
21/01/2013
11:32:59 AM
I'm assuming you wrote the description which stated pretty much that - that the extension was easier than the original.

I onsighted the left leaning crack up to the first set of lower offs - it didn't seem to bad at 24. Maybe hard for your average sport climber cos it had an awkward hand jam and then a finger jam or two but really not too bad. The extension (which followed the crack over the bulge) was impossible! I managed to super desperately do the moves by doing a really weird, painful, awkward and hard to place hand jam from the first and only jug over the lip and then doing some desperate arete slapping on nothing slopers after that. There is potential for a fingerlock but I found that to awkward and desperate to get my hand and fingers in the right position. If I were to grade it I would give it 26 once you have the moves sussed (onsighting would be nigh on impossible)

Am I retarded or is this how it's meant to be done?
mikllaw
Online Now
21/01/2013
11:50:11 AM
I laybacked it off to the right way back when, but I was a strong little sandbagger back then.
Good work on onsighting the crack.
I'll be interested in your garde and we can revise the guide.
Was it clean? i brushed it 2 years ago when i rebolted that section of cliff.
olbert
21/01/2013
2:26:12 PM
On 21/01/2013 mikllaw wrote:
>I laybacked it off to the right way back when, but I was a strong little
>sandbagger back then.
>Good work on onsighting the crack.
>I'll be interested in your garde and we can revise the guide.
>Was it clean? i brushed it 2 years ago when i rebolted that section of
>cliff.

It was clean though not really any chalk. The arete is really blunt and its above a rooflet so getting your feet up so that you can start laybacking is quite hard. There is certainly no downward facing holds on the first few metres of the arete and once you do get established the laybacking is super desperate and slopey. Once you clip the second bolt over the lip it just settles into easier but funky and tenuous climbing.

I might be overstating the grade...I didn't actually give it a second go to tick it. I have been told that I am a sandbagger though...so I really don't know. You should probably get another opinion before you settle on a re-grading of the route.

I did add it to the climb.org.au as 25 but I'm not so sure I should have done that now.

BundyBear
Online Now
6/11/2013
12:48:23 PM
I went there the other day with Monty. He also ticked the crack but couldn't do the moves on the extension. He jumped back to the anchors and bailed as well. So it probably is 26ish ?
PThomson
6/11/2013
2:31:03 PM
I onsighted Anticoagulant, but couldn't get established in the initial crack of the extension (turning the rooflet onto the face) on link when I tried to link the two into a giant pitch.

Admittedly, it was super-dirty, and might not be too bad if I rapped and cleaned it, but it seemed BRIEFLY desperate.

-Paul Thomson


There are 7 messages in this topic.

 

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