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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Author

Kaputar - Euglah Rock


ashfall tuff

16/04/2013
7:59:02 PM

At kaputar some retro bolter has shifted the sin of liability from the shoulders of the first ascent style.

end of thread for me


White Trash

16/04/2013
9:40:15 PM

On 16/04/2013 ashfall tuff wrote:
>At kaputar some retro bolter has shifted the sin of liability from the
>shoulders of the first ascent style.
>
>
>
>
>end of thread for me
>
whats the matter ashfall? dot let the crowd get to you, tell us what you think, as i was just getting warmed to this thread.

>
>

dan_b

16/04/2013
9:40:22 PM

wtf does that even mean?


Duang Daunk

17/04/2013
7:57:44 AM

>At kaputar some retro bolter has shifted the sin of liability from the shoulders of the first ascent style.

On 16/04/2013 dan_b wrote:
>wtf does that even mean?

Tell me if I'm wrong Ashfall, but I think it means that Ashfall thinks that a retrobolter has saved todays climbers from climbing routes that he thinks were put up in dangerous style; and that if someone hurts themselves on those dangerous routes, instead of the original ascentionist being liable for that, the retrobolter is now liable. Either that or because the routes have been so dumbed down that he thinks nobody will hurt themselves at Kaputar anymore.

What is not only a sin but a blaspheme to the original ascents?
Ashfall is maccas altered ego?

Will_P

17/04/2013
11:16:18 AM

I think you're right about the overall message, but wrong about the messenger. Macca is more comprehensible.

rightarmbad

17/04/2013
10:19:49 PM

Out of all the climbing organisations out there, dangerouser cliff is the only one that spurred me to want to join.
If it can do something about this new wave of dumb climbers, I'm in.

I wonder if it would be possible to get labour to tax drills to clear the deficit?

One Day Hero

18/04/2013
12:05:54 AM

I don't know if we can actually hold back the 'tard tide, but how many other climbing organisations are going to have strippers at the agm?


pmonks

18/04/2013
4:09:29 AM

On 17/04/2013 rightarmbad wrote:
>Out of all the climbing organisations out there, dangerouser cliff is the
>only one that spurred me to want to join.
>If it can do something about this new wave of dumb climbers, I'm in.

+1, though if I were a member I'd vote the group be renamed to just "cliffs". After all that's what they were long before the retardobolters came along.


Miguel75

18/04/2013
6:49:42 AM

On 18/04/2013 pmonks wrote:
>On 17/04/2013 rightarmbad wrote:
>>Out of all the climbing organisations out there, dangerouser cliff is
>the
>>only one that spurred me to want to join.
>>If it can do something about this new wave of dumb climbers, I'm in.
>
>+1, though if I were a member I'd vote the group be renamed to just "cliffs".
> After all that's what they were long before the retardobolters came along.

Cliffs reminds me of the mailman from cheers;)

Cliff: Hey Doc, ah, what do you think the toughest thing to cut through is?
Frasier: Chockstones unending bull....

technogeekery

18/04/2013
9:00:31 AM

On 17/04/2013 rightarmbad wrote:

>If it can do something about this new wave of dumb climbers, I'm in.

I also identify more with the old wave of dumb climbers...


vwills

27/04/2013
10:27:12 PM

Just an update:

I have had some correspondence via a friend of Robin Barleys with about 40 new routes that he has done at Kaputar over the past years with a mixture of other climbers . I will put them on line via ACA/ thecrag when the weather turns bad, and I get time, and provide a link. He tried to send them to ROCK, but they of course dont publish new routes anymore.

Robin does NOT retrobolt and seems to have respected gear placements where they exist in his routes and has done trad, sport and mixed routes. He is responsible for the 2 sports routes on the left side of the Governor which is the only controversial bolting I can see at first glance. I dont know about the chiselled grades on the south side of Euglah, it certainly wasnt used on any routes I have done of his on the north side of Euglah. He isnt responsible for any of the retrobolted routes at Lindsey or added bolts eg Sago Entree.

There has been some interest in a spring offensive for de-bolting the Lindsey Rocks area if anyone wants to join in....

mickaff

3/06/2013
10:15:47 PM

Hi Vanessa. You may remember we met at Bulladela earlier in the year. Those routes on the south side of euglah were bolted by Barley but climbed by Fantini. I was there in march and did a couple of them. Great additions to the crag. Regarding route descriptions, local climber Anthony Brennan has all the new route info. If you want it I can give you his e-mail address. Just contact me thro Mick johnno or mmike Moore.

bigfish

6/06/2013
12:46:53 PM

Does that mean Barley being the bolter vandalised the rock by inscribing in huge numbers the grades WITH HIS DRILL?


vwills

6/06/2013
9:12:59 PM

I dont know. Havent seen the area personally. I sent a message via a friend of his that there had been major concerns about
a) retrobolting - which doesnt appear to be him
b) sports routes on the Governor
c) alleged grades chiselled in the rock- doesnt seem to have been his modus operandi anywhere else.

Looking at a trip up there in early September.

There are 94 messages in this topic.