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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 3 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 96
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Kaputar - Euglah Rock
hero
29/01/2013
3:19:52 PM
Your PM box is full wogdog. And just for the record. It was very nice in Talbingo this weekend. Not stinking at all.
bigfish
31/01/2013
1:10:37 PM

The chiselling i encountered was east around from the the 1st climb listed in the guide. A way around past a few dingo caves. As far as i could see they where the only 3 routes in that area. ( i wonder for how long)

I imagined a place like Euglah rock would have originally been a place to climb where routes were a little bit more exposed. From the look out i was in awe of the Plug. I imagined beautiful untouched climbs, like that at frog.

I was utterly amazed at the amount of bolts there, and how close they were to each other. It definitely left me with a different impression to what i was expecting when i reached the rock. Yes some of the aretes do look like good lines, but others look like they have just been bolted, because there was a space inbetween. A spot like that should have some sort of adventure in it.

I agree that the bolters should be encouraged to learn from older and the wider climbing community not to spoil these places just for the sake of another route.
I recently enjoyed reading the article in the sep/nov rock magazine about Zac Vertrees freeing of Cul de Sac. A great read, and what an adventure. I would like to think that in my lifetime i would get to experience something like that.


mickaff
5/02/2013
2:54:51 PM
It's unfortunate that the Barley/Fantini/Penny Cooper team inscribed the grades at the base of the three aforementioned routes because they are great additions to a previously undeveloped part of Euglah.
As for the other new/newish routes at Euglah, I've done all bar Fantinis Edge of Ecstasy, next to Edge Effects and the only route that needs chopping is the arete next to Clampdown. Don't know who bolted that (was not Barley) but it seriously impinges upon Clampdown, a v thrilling climb in the past but sadly not now.
Sadly thrilling bold memorable routes are becoming a rare species. I'm just glad I got experiences like The Plunge (Piddo) done before it became just another clip up. Totally Unforgettable v Totally forgettable. Lost forever and lost to future generations of trad bold aspirants.

nmonteith
5/02/2013
10:34:03 PM
On 5/02/2013 mickaff wrote:
>It's unfortunate that the Barley/Fantini/Penny Cooper team inscribed the
>grades at the base of the three aforementioned routes because they are
>great additions to a previously undeveloped part of Euglah.

Is this the same Fantini that OFH seems to idolize as a trad climbing hero?!
mickaff
5/02/2013
10:57:58 PM
Same Fantini. He's got an unsurpassable legacy of bold trad routes in Australia. Ironically the same can be said for Barley in Britain, South Africa and Canada.

vwills
7/02/2013
10:13:17 AM
THe arete to the left of Clampdown impinges slightly in that you could traverse and put a long runner on one of its bolts if you wanted to- I still found Clampdown very bold and thrilling and recall eyeing off those bolts as potential escape- but they were out of the way and I desisted. On a later trip I did the arete and it was a good climb....

ANy idea who has been gridding at Lindsey Rocks though??
PeteK
5/04/2013
10:15:55 AM
So you can add Sago Entree and Iconoclast to the list of routes that have been retrobolted at Kaputar recently. Sago Entree now has a ringbolt near the top and a DBB has been added to the top of the 2nd pitch on Iconoclast.

I don't understand how somebody has developed the skills/trad experience to climb these routes in their current form, yet thinks it's appropriate to retro 30+ year old, well protected, 3 star trad routes.
MichaelF
6/04/2013
9:42:15 AM
Pete, can that really be the case? That was such a dissapointment to read. I also cant understand the motivation for adding those bolts.
PeteK
8/04/2013
10:18:04 AM
On 6/04/2013 MichaelF wrote:
>Pete, can that really be the case? That was such a dissapointment to read.
>I also cant understand the motivation for adding those bolts.

Unfortunately this is not a troll. It seems there is a new psychological aspect to trad climbing, you need to be able to stay focused despite the rage induced by finding ring bolts next to cracks.

I'm sure the retroing on the Governer extends further than these two routes. If my memory serves me correct there was only one bolt on Clandestiny while in now has three.
Gov Junky
8/04/2013
1:20:12 PM
'I'd be happy to be involved in a 'corrective expedition'.
Bring it on Ian. Just give me a date and I'll be there.
One Day Hero
8/04/2013
1:35:54 PM
And thus the northern NSW chapter of the d.c.a. was formed.

Sweet!
Gov Junky
8/04/2013
1:41:35 PM
On 28/01/2013 wogdog wrote:
>Lets not forget that Kaputar, The Governor in particular, has been subject
>to a climbing ban in the past, this sort of activity, especially marking
>the rock with large numbers, is likely to induce another ban, possibly
>permanent, again.
>

Hi Jack,
Perhaps a climbing ban for a while wouldn't be so bad. It might deter irresponsible bolters and I wouldn't be averse to revisiting the tactics of the '70's.
Surprised you didn't mention this forum to me. I can only assume that you thought that my poor old heart wouldn't stand the strain! Phil Armstrong sent me a link. Still… It gladdens my heart to see that there are still a few climbers around that still appreciate the 'trad ethic'. When I read about the bolts on Iconoclast I could only think that Brian would turn in his grave… Anyway, I'll email Mark and Paul B with a link to this forum. Perhaps you could let me know contact details for Animal if you have them. I'm sure he'd have something to say!
PeteK
8/04/2013
2:30:07 PM
On 8/04/2013 Gov Junky wrote:
>On 5/04/2013 PeteK wrote:
>>So you can add Sago Entree and Iconoclast to the list of routes that
>have
>>been retrobolted at Kaputar recently. Sago Entree now has a ringbolt
>near
>>the top and a DBB has been added to the top of the 2nd pitch on Iconoclast....[snip]
>
>Excuse the ignorance of an Old Fart, but I did the first ascent of iconoclast
>and would like to know what a DBB is. I'm assuming that it's a double
>bolt belay. If that is the case, if any bolt belay were needed it would
>be at the top of the third pitch. If my memory serves me correctly, there
>is a good stance and adequate natural protection at the second belay.

Sorry DBB = double bolt belay. There also is a rappel chain at the top of pitch three but I think these are a lot older. Where the new bolts are on top of pitch 2 there still is plenty of natural protection.

It looks like whoever placed these bolts used a spatula to force the glue into the hole instead of a nozzle, so aside from the bolts there is a fair bit of grey glue smeared on the rock. Anyone know how to clean this up?
Gov Junky
8/04/2013
3:06:56 PM
On 27/01/2013 vwills wrote:
>I probably won't get a chance to head Kaputar way until spring but would
>be happy to unbolt the retrobolted routes. I am trying to get in contact
>with Robin Barley via supertopo, but chances are he'll ignore me.

On a quick Web search I found the following contact details. By the look of the address it seems to be the same man.

Robin Barley
(604) 892-3560
1003 Pennylane Squamish BC

Re. un-bolting I would be happy to help.

vwills
8/04/2013
5:24:29 PM
Good to see this topic is still happening. Spent the last 6 weeks in a poor internet zone (there are some left in the world, fortunately). Maybe I'll be old fashioned and send him a letter then!

There was no bolts on Sago Entree in 2006, so thats definitely been put in since, for what purposes I dont know. I can remember the climb being exciting, but not deadly.....

The DBB on iconoclast is weird. It is quite easy (preferable) to do pitch 2 and 3 together and bypass them. I think they may be there for rappelling. If you top out there are further chains- and double 60m ropes dont get to the ground. You can also not do the last 10m pitch and rappel from that ledge, and ropes may well reach the ground (???)- its been 3 years since I last did Iconoclast and recall seeing the DBB half way up then. They serve no purpose on ascent. I do use them when rapelling after doing routes well to the right eg Smike and ?Borrowed Time rather than hobble down (in the dark).

If no one else gets the energy I will be trying to get up there in spring this year and will be happy to chop the "sports" routes on the left side of the governor and the blatant retrobolting at Lindsey rocks for starters.

Ashfall tuff
8/04/2013
8:28:03 PM
Hi, I am local to Narrabri.... I dont want this bolting argument to get out of hand, In fact I'd like to climb with some of you Kap. climbers. IMO bad bolting is bolting that lessens the safety of the climb e.g. bolting small unfused blocks. I believe on a new route that is promoted for others to climb, ideally it should be equipped for the "beginner" leading at his/her peak. If this means placing a bolt where there is a gear placement for the experienced climber than so be it.


I want climbing to grow as a recreation. knowing that Kap. would not be easy access for emergency services I'll take the cautious view. That is if its unsafe cut it out, tho dont cut bolts just to maintain a preferred style of climbing.


vwills
8/04/2013
10:24:53 PM
So if you are a Narrabri local perhaps you can shed some light on who has retrobolted Lindsey Rocks eg Pork Orgy, and many other routes in that area (and judging by the erosion) started to take groups (scouts or school?) in to the grade 9 and 10 area at Lindsey and placed several toprope anchors for these climbs?

Read the point perp thread to get the gist of why people dont want existing climbs retrobolted and trad climbs dumbed down. The safety argument is weak. It is very easy to toprope any route you want at Lindsey rocks, and many routes at Euglah.

The bolting argument is not out of hand. It is the bolting that is out of hand.
One Day Hero
8/04/2013
11:17:24 PM
On 8/04/2013 Ashfall tuff wrote:
>Hi, I am local to Narrabri.... I dont want this bolting argument to get
>out of hand,

>I want climbing to grow as a recreation. knowing that Kap. would not be
>easy access for emergency services I'll take the cautious view. That is
>if its unsafe cut it out, tho dont cut bolts just to maintain a preferred
>style of climbing.
>
Hi Ashfall, I'm a local to Canberra...... I want this bolting argument to get right the fuch out of hand. I want bolters to be sweating it a little, knowing that if they do the wrong thing it's a hundred bucks of steel and glue down the toilet.

I want climbing to not grow as a recreation. I want people to come out of the gym and realise that sometimes falling is not ok........and if they can't stomach at least a little bit of danger, then they should toddle back off to the climbing gym and stay there.

Cutting bolts is exactly the way to maintain a preferred style of climbing. It's going to happen up at Kaputar, get used to it. You got one thing right though, bolts in detached blocks is seriously bad news. Sounds like some pretty stupid people up your way have gone and bought themselves a drill.

Ashfall tuff
8/04/2013
11:29:35 PM
Climbing i believe fosters an interest in N.P.s and bush regen. I recon there needs to be some allowances made for youngsters learning to climb. especially if they've been taken out by school or scouts, there may be a liability/management concern. probably there are not enough climbers to introduce a group of youngsters to trad climbing.

In this region you know there's not much surf or snow but we got rock :)
rightarmbad
8/04/2013
11:59:10 PM
You have top ropes at your disposal.
The few who will genuinely go on to lead, and further on to lead trad will learn better without bullshit route bolting to supposedly get them on the rock quicker.

They need to develop a good head and a respect for all that can and does go wrong on the rock.

Your attitude is exactly why the bolting war needs to be fought.

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There are 96 messages in this topic.

 

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