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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 90
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Arapiles (General) (General) (General) [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Author
First 17 lead at araps
darkxst
20/06/2006
9:16:42 AM
I have been leading for a few years now and looking at doing my first 17. Anyone have any recommendations for a suitable (well protected) 17 at araps?

..::- Chris -::..
20/06/2006
9:21:57 AM
Swinging at Castle crag was (i think) my first 17. If it is still 17 ? Mixed Gear, good gear and some interesting moves, it's only short though, but maybe good for the confidence.

Good luck with it,
Chris.

nmonteith
20/06/2006
9:27:15 AM
Surface To Air
darkxst
20/06/2006
9:31:20 AM
whats the gear like on surface to air ?

nmonteith
20/06/2006
9:44:58 AM
Its predominatly a juggy face route (bouldery start) so i imagine it has quite a few wires. I can't actually
comment on the gear as i've only soloed it! Anyone else?
climbingjac
20/06/2006
9:47:08 AM
Kamikaze.

neats
20/06/2006
10:08:48 AM
On 20/06/2006 climbingjac wrote:
>Kamikaze.

I thought it was a 16??
Nottobetaken
20/06/2006
10:11:32 AM
I would thoroughly recommend Oceanoid (both pitches) - very rewarding, quite technical with a bit of everything, with some intricate (but good) gear and a lot of atmosphere.

If you want something a bit more butch but with straightforward gear - (and depending on your love of cracks) you might like to try Mari.

Lastly, you should go and try Vandal in Intrepid Gully - 2 pitches of 13/14 on brilliant rock to a nice ledge, then a great 'open book' corner (the start being the crux). Stemming 70m off the deck right at the top should bring a smile to your face. The gear is great as well.

Iser
20/06/2006
10:33:58 AM
On 20/06/2006 darkxst wrote:
>whats the gear like on surface to air ?

Excellent gear. Highly recommended. The crux is the first 5-10 metres, and the rest is similar difficulty to Muldoon (ie 13-15).
prb
20/06/2006
10:59:49 AM
>I would thoroughly recommend Oceanoid

It's a great climb, but I only found a #00 cam at the pitch 1 crux. It was a good piece, but if it's your first grade 17 move on lead...

I like Dirge. Good, well protected 14/15 climbing to the crux, a couple of big wires, a couple of cruxy moves, a couple more wires/cams and on you go. Just what you want for a first lead at a grade.

I'm waiting for someone to recommend Missing Link!

billk
20/06/2006
11:02:46 AM
Spellbinder in Pharos Gully

nmonteith
20/06/2006
11:04:16 AM
I also found Oceanoid a bit goey with the gear (and i was happy onsighting 22 on trad at the time).
Fish Boy
20/06/2006
11:40:21 AM
Saint Peter ;)
Nottobetaken
20/06/2006
11:54:49 AM
Happy Ending up on Hellspite Wall is a little gem - and totally readable from the ground.
Missing Link has one hell of a reputation - but it would be less so if people used double ropes. The crux is right at the start (protected) then it's jugs to a bomber wire (#8?) - then slab grade 14 on micro-wires to the top. Personally I think Preservative Added is a more interesting route.

Whatever you do - don't go and try Scorpion Direct Start as your first - it might look innocent enough, but...

climbingjac
20/06/2006
1:01:54 PM
On 20/06/2006 neats wrote:
>On 20/06/2006 climbingjac wrote:
>>Kamikaze.
>
>I thought it was a 16??

Oops sorry it must be 16 now
james
20/06/2006
1:14:53 PM
On 20/06/2006 Boardlord wrote:
>Whatever you do - don't go and try Scorpion Direct Start as your first
>- it might look innocent enough, but...

Scorpion Direct Start is one of the better 17 at Araps. bomber pro, awesome position, it just has a move or 2 that are a little awkward.
gfdonc
20/06/2006
2:15:21 PM
Did Scorpion DS 9 days ago and thought it was one of the tougher 17's around! Bloody flared cracks. Agree it's got plenty of pro though.

Haven't been on it for years but I would have thought Minimus would have made the list. Easy access, not too steep, nice face climbing, and there's enough pro I think? Make sure you take a (thin?) sling for the thread runner.

I did the Stoat Steps Out for the first time earlier this month - which is 18 not 17 however, but I thought it was soft at the grade, it's short, has great gear and good feet to hang around and place the gear.

Moby Dick anyone?
dalai
20/06/2006
2:17:28 PM
Moby Dick has had it's fair share of groundfalls from memory... maybe not the best for your first 17?

Super Saiyan
20/06/2006
2:19:44 PM
I have lead Moby Dick, and that was with great difficulty, I face climbed the damn thing! Definately not a good idea for your first 17!!! Plus getting off the damn think is shit too!

Super Saiyan
20/06/2006
2:22:25 PM
What is the route opposite Lemmington? On the D Minor Pinnacle? 17 or 18 i thought but damn soft for either! Bouldery start (excellent pro) then a cruise to the top and rap off! Brilliant! Sweet warm up for Lemmington (which is one of my faves)

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There are 90 messages in this topic.

 

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