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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 5 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 90
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Arapiles (General) (General) (General) [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Author
First 17 lead at araps
bones
29/06/2010
2:58:32 PM
On 20/06/2006 The good Dr wrote:
>I would recommend Preludes, Central Gully N side. Good gear, technical,
>and with a steep bit at the top to raise the pulse just a little. Can be
>done entirely on Hexes (if you are into that sort of modern jiggery pokery).
>

Agree with the above - Preludes is safe and fun
egosan
29/06/2010
3:07:44 PM
If you are going to do Preludes, you might as well do Mari. At least on Mari the jamBing is friendly and won't leave you bleeding.

Eduardo Slabofvic
29/06/2010
4:57:44 PM
On 29/06/2010 prb wrote:
>I suspect the most feared 17 at Arapiles is Missing Link

You should see how many wires my girl friend can get in Missing Link. Despite any allegations to the contrary, Missing Link is well protected.
Duncan
29/06/2010
5:14:53 PM
On 29/06/2010 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>On 29/06/2010 prb wrote:
>>I suspect the most feared 17 at Arapiles is Missing Link
>
>You should see how many wires my girl friend can get in Missing Link.
> Despite any allegations to the contrary, Missing Link is well protected.

It's pretty fiddly though, and there's not an awful lot down low.
Wendy
29/06/2010
5:35:51 PM
What a bloody unhelpful thread. I hope you made some sense in between all the sandbags.


Garden Gnome.
Dirge
Spellbinder
Preludes
Edger Gerbils


There are no sandbags in that list! Reasonable at the grade, good gear, no extremes of any style of climbing. Feel free to consolidate 16 on

Scylla
Nativity
Saracen
Necrophiliac

And wander onto 18 with

Stoat Steps out
Little Dinosaur and Asteroid
Yelping pup
Kinkaid
Skink
Morgral Khan

All of which are well protected and probably a bit soft.

ajfclark
29/06/2010
10:55:21 PM
On 29/06/2010 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>You should see how many wires my girl friend can get in Missing Link. Despite any allegations to the contrary, Missing Link is well protected.

I agree with you re missing link. What do you think of preservative added?

gordoste
30/06/2010
10:09:40 AM
Can recommend Stoat Steps Out as a very safe 18, although you'll probably fall off it a few times if it's your first.

Eduardo Slabofvic
30/06/2010
10:35:22 AM
Its been ages since I've done Preservative Added, so I can't comment on the gear that well. I recall it is a little spaced down low, but the upper section doesn't stick in my mind, so it was probably alright.

The day my girl friend lead Missing Link, there were two Euro guys who had just done it before her, and they thought it was really run out and scary, and were totally gob smacked by the number of runners she got in. She is very determined when it comes to placing gear, which can make seconding her a frustrating experience, particularly as her hands are about half the size of mine and she can get gear in places where I can't reach
egosan
30/06/2010
1:31:21 PM
On 30/06/2010 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>particularly as her hands are about half
>the size of mine and she can get gear in
>places where I can't reach

....
jgoding
2/07/2010
7:06:11 AM
I'd suggest Spellbinder(17**), Huey(18**) and Coming on Chris(16**) around that grade. The start of Huey is a bit tricky but once you get going the gear is great.

I wouldn't be suggesting Swinging unless you know how to place good tiny (0.2) cams (there is a reasonable small slot half way between the last bolt and the belay)

I wouldn't recommend Scorpion direct start either - it's just plain old hard! It spanked some pretty good, experienced Yosemite born and bred crack lovers. Not ideal for your first 17!

Oceanoid, while an awesome route I concur with Neil might be a bit intimidating and do more harm than good to someone wanting to experiment with leading at this grade. That said if you survive (which you most likely will) it would be the pants filling kind of awesome experience that you bore your friends with - greatest thing in the world, and the whole reason you started climbing (etc etc)

What about Dirge(17**) in the Organ Pipes? that's well protected and very good climbing?

The 17/18 across from Lemmington (called Aardvark) has a hard start and might be likely to put someone off leading as it's just hard. The rest of the route is great. A good one to top rope after doing D minor.

I'd highly recommend Preludes (18**) - tricky but kind of all fairly obvious and from memory well protected where you need it. Great position.

Climb safe, Climb happy, stick around for a long good time!

PS Star allocation is just my opinion, check your climbing guide! Everyone has their own style. A more reliable source of info than this forum!


 Page 5 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 90
There are 90 messages in this topic.

 

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