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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 4 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 90
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Arapiles (General) (General) (General) [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Author
First 17 lead at araps
vonClimb
28/06/2010
10:55:32 AM
Anyone suggesting oceanoid as a first 17 lead is crazy. The first pitch is okay but the second pitch is damn hard for the grade.

An easy first up 17 is prelude. It has one tricky move on the thin section down the bottom and the rest is pretty straightforward.

Surface to air is a pretty good first up 17 as well.

ajfclark
28/06/2010
11:10:57 AM
On 20/06/2006 Dr Box wrote:
>there is a climb that goes from the top of piccolo, on the left facing side of the wall d major is on. its about 17ish. lou's guide gives it a 18, selected guide gives it a 16, gear is pretty good, but kinda run out, really nice moves for a climb that doesnt get any stars.

The disparity is because the select guide abbreviates the route. Lou's guide also says Stentor has 3 pitches, the first of which is the crux at 18, the second 10, the last 16, and starts from somewhere between Piccolo and Decibel (from memory).

Out of interest, has anyone done the first two pitches?

cruze
28/06/2010
11:46:57 AM
On 28/06/2010 vonClimb wrote:
>Anyone suggesting oceanoid as a first 17 lead is crazy. The first pitch
>is okay but the second pitch is damn hard for the grade.

Do you mean the bottomless chimney? Did you consider it dangerous or just hard?
Paz
28/06/2010
12:28:10 PM
No-one mentioned Checkmate.....
vonClimb
28/06/2010
12:56:39 PM
On 28/06/2010 cruze wrote:
>On 28/06/2010 vonClimb wrote:
>
>Do you mean the bottomless chimney? Did you consider it dangerous or just
>hard?

Yeah the bottomless chimney. I meant its just hard, not what your looking for as a first time 17 lead.

ajfclark
28/06/2010
1:00:44 PM
On 28/06/2010 Paz wrote:
>No-one mentioned Checkmate.....

Checkmate is not something I'd recommend as a first grade 17 lead...
Felix
28/06/2010
1:19:39 PM
Edgell Gerber Memorial Flake Climb at Mitre

cruze
28/06/2010
1:28:40 PM
Personally I found that the gear on Checkmate needed a bit of thought and maybe a bit of up, place, downclimb, rest type stuff but it was quite tame. Maybe I was having a low gravity that day and a high gravity day on Vandal...

cruze
28/06/2010
1:30:59 PM
On 28/06/2010 vonClimb wrote:
>On 28/06/2010 cruze wrote:
>>On 28/06/2010 vonClimb wrote:
>>
>>Do you mean the bottomless chimney? Did you consider it dangerous or
>just
>>hard?
>
>Yeah the bottomless chimney. I meant its just hard, not what your looking
>for as a first time 17 lead.
OK, maybe we just consider cracking the next grade differently. I look for safe leads, not necessarily soft ticks.

dimpet
28/06/2010
1:38:20 PM
Dirge was the first 17 i did, i thought it was easy and the gear was really easy and good.

Eduardo Slabofvic
28/06/2010
2:30:41 PM
On 28/06/2010 Felix wrote:
>Edgell Gerber Memorial Flake Climb at Mitre

Yes. Excellent choice

ado_m
28/06/2010
2:56:28 PM
i second doing oceanoid. the first pitch is brilliant and safe. the second pitch will put hairs on your chest (though i tink it might be 18). that or go and do fang. it's important to have a lesson in humility everytime you bump up a grade. if you don't, you end up thinking your superman, running out something too hard for you and then becoming a cropper. i can speak from experience here kids.


dimpet
28/06/2010
4:20:32 PM
On 28/06/2010 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>On 28/06/2010 Felix wrote:
>>Edgell Gerber Memorial Flake Climb at Mitre
>
>Yes. Excellent choice

If i remember correctly, there is one move of a ledge on that, that is quite scary, with crappy gear until you commit and get a bit higher.

Eduardo Slabofvic
28/06/2010
4:32:06 PM
There's good gear there. 1 at your face when standing on the ledge, move up 1 move and another goes in, then big cam around right in flake, dicky (grade 17) move right, up and left to jugs through breaks to top. I recon there's good pro all the way

gordoste
29/06/2010
12:26:07 PM
I can't believe people suggested the following as good first 17 leads

Moby Dick
Surface To Air
Oceanoid
Checkmate

Just shows that you really need to take any Chockstone opinion with a grain of salt!



vonClimb
29/06/2010
1:21:52 PM
On 29/06/2010 gordoste wrote:
>I can't believe people suggested the following as good first 17 leads
>
>Moby Dick
>Surface To Air
>Oceanoid
>Checkmate
>

Why wouldn't you recommend surface to air?

ajfclark
29/06/2010
1:30:45 PM
From the previous page:

On 21/06/2006 Richard wrote:
>On 20/06/2006 Matt78 wrote:
>>as for surface to air, is has a difficult start that is hard to protect and if you fall you're likely to do your ankle on a crappy landing.
>
>Yeah, i would not reccommend it as a first 17..
widewetandslippery
29/06/2010
1:54:56 PM
Moby Dick is punchy but safe and if you're psyched it would be a good one. good gear but if the grade is hard for you you risk a good but safe winger. Oceaniod first pitch is a great climb in itself. The second pitch is hard and if you protect it properly the rope the drag won't let you up the thing.

I recomend Mari.
paz
29/06/2010
2:29:22 PM
On 29/06/2010 gordoste wrote:
>I can't believe people suggested the following as good first 17 leads
>
>Moby Dick
>Surface To Air
>Oceanoid
>Checkmate
>
>Just shows that you really need to take any Chockstone opinion with a
>grain of salt!
>

Possibly but also depends on what kind of climbing you're better at and whether you're looking for the softest touch at the grade or something with good gear and good fall.

Grades are so subjective anyway, there's sure to be heaps of 15's and 16's at araps that're harder than swinging or dirge, so why not aim a little higher so when you're feeling delicate you've got a couple of easier 17's to regain some confidence.

why not skip the araps 17 and head to buff for Angels fear to Tread
prb
29/06/2010
2:42:38 PM
I suspect the most feared 17 at Arapiles is Missing Link and the most sustained is Mari. The toughest sequence on a 17 is the start of Jeckle!

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There are 90 messages in this topic.

 

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