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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 90
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Arapiles (General) (General) (General) [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Author
First 17 lead at araps

Diablo
20/06/2006
2:39:41 PM
its Aardvark
pharmamatt
20/06/2006
3:37:02 PM
aadvark is a grade 18.

as for surface to air, is has a difficult start that is hard to protect and if you fall you're likely to do your ankle on a crappy landing.

i would recommend swinging, i just did over the queen's birthday w/end and has a bolt bracket just below the crux, which does wonders for your confidence.

Super Saiyan
20/06/2006
3:41:05 PM
On 20/06/2006 Matt78 wrote:
>aadvark is a grade 18.

Yeah thats the one... Bit soft i thought. Your first 18! :)
pharmamatt
20/06/2006
3:48:34 PM
Tim i didn't realise it was you posting, are you heading up there after your exam have finished?

i have been recommended dirge in the organ pipes, though the second pitch is meant to be crap.

as for something like mari or oceanoid, i don' t think it would see much sun at time of the year and would be cold!

matt, from monash!
gfdonc
20/06/2006
3:58:45 PM
I would have thought Mari was a fairly stiff first 17. Steep, with another one of those smooth cracky-thingys to deal with along the way (yes only about 13 but a struggle if you can't jam!).
Moby Dick, sorry I was actually tongue in check on that one. Fun though.
darkxst
20/06/2006
3:59:01 PM

>Haven't been on it for years but I would have thought Minimus would have
>made the list.

I have already lead this one, although i had previously top-roped it so didnt think it really counted as such

simonu
20/06/2006
3:59:20 PM
I reckon Oceanoid would be tough for a first lead - a couple of distinct cruxes and a slightly daunting situation on the first pitch.
I did Sue's Climb the other day (next to Pedro) and although escapable in places was surprisingly worthwhile. The climb has great gear and some nice moves in the middle section.
The first pitch of Dirge is good, you can rap down Tannin at the end too.
darkxst
20/06/2006
4:01:02 PM
On 20/06/2006 Matt78 wrote:
>Tim i didn't realise it was you posting, are you heading up there after
>your exam have finished?

hey matt, we are heading up 1st July for about a week..

Dr Box
20/06/2006
4:23:01 PM
swinging and surface to air are great 17's
i thought moby dick was great, really good gear,
there is a climb that goes from the top of piccolo, on the left facing side of the wall d major is on. its about 17ish. lou's guide gives it a 18, selected guide gives it a 16, gear is pretty good, but kinda run out, really nice moves for a climb that doesnt get any stars.
once you get a bit more comfortable with 17, i'm a little ateroid and i'm a little dinosaur are pretty nice 18's with good gear
pharmamatt
20/06/2006
5:04:56 PM
On 20/06/2006 Dr Box wrote:

>there is a climb that goes from the top of piccolo, on the left facing
>side of the wall d major is on. its about 17ish. lou's guide gives it a
>18, selected guide gives it a 16, gear is pretty good, but kinda run out,
>really nice moves for a climb that doesnt get any stars.

r u talking about stentor? i think it can be linked from the ground via decibel (15).

The good Dr
20/06/2006
8:03:53 PM
I would recommend Preludes, Central Gully N side. Good gear, technical, and with a steep bit at the top to raise the pulse just a little. Can be done entirely on Hexes (if you are into that sort of modern jiggery pokery).

Spellbinder is also well protected and excellent value (an can be done on hexes if...........)

Vandal is another contender.

JamesMc
20/06/2006
8:53:36 PM
Maximus.

Don't miss the bomber tread in the horizontal on the right that protects the crux.

JamesMc

adski
20/06/2006
9:17:44 PM
My vote goes to Spellbinder in the Pharos Gully for 'the great stances for plugging in gear.
patto
21/06/2006
12:05:58 AM
On 20/06/2006 JamesMc wrote:
>Maximus.
>
>Don't miss the bomber tread in the horizontal on the right that protects
>the crux.
>
>JamesMc

Another vote for maximus.

It was my first 17 lead. I had no trouble with it. I must say I had been more stressed on a couple 15s than I was on Maximus.

Its a good 17 to chalk up the grade, there are plenty of harder 17s out there though.
darkxst
21/06/2006
8:13:04 AM

>Another vote for maximus.

I have already lead this climb. Although having previously top-roped it, I didnt think it really counted as my first 17 lead...

neats
21/06/2006
8:14:58 AM
On 20/06/2006 Dr Box wrote:

>there is a climb that goes from the top of piccolo, on the left facing
>side of the wall d major is on. its about 17ish. lou's guide gives it a
>18, selected guide gives it a 16, gear is pretty good, but kinda run out,
>really nice moves for a climb that doesnt get any stars.

Yes it is a nice climb, short but nice. There is only really one or two strenuous moves on it. Its actually a good link up in between Piccalo and Viagra!

oweng
21/06/2006
10:17:11 AM
I think the first 17 I led at Araps was "prelate" which is in the central gully at Mitre Rock. Only about 8 metres high, escapable at half height (?!), and with a really cool crux move to gain a monster jug over a little rooflet. 5minutes from the carpark. Well worth considering in my opinion.
prb
21/06/2006
10:40:44 AM
>I think the first 17 I led at Araps was "prelate" which is in the central gully at Mitre Rock.

Been on another couple of 17s at Mitre in recent visits:

Pearly Gates. A promising start but it degenerates into the worst rock I've come across at Araps. Not recommended.

Beelzebub. Has a reasonable reputation but I didn't enjoy it. The traverse in feels like cheating but I'm not quite tall/strong enough to pull the DS. And whether you climb the top via the wide corner/crack or the thin wall crack, or both, it's just not very elegant. Well protected though.

However, back on the mainland, I can certainly recommend Thimble. OK rock, no issues with pro, morning sun, sweet.

shiltz
21/06/2006
11:11:05 AM
Is Prelate the one with the peanut shaped jug?

billk
21/06/2006
11:38:31 AM
On 20/06/2006 adski wrote:
>My vote goes to Spellbinder in the Pharos Gully for 'the great stances
>for plugging in gear.

So I'm not alone on that one.

You'll need one or two big hexes or big cams (#4 friend size) to adequately protect the first bit, which is the crux. After that it's bomber nuts placed from great stances.

It's also a pretty good length as I remember (25-30m?).

 Page 2 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 90
There are 90 messages in this topic.

 

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