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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 55
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Arapiles (General) (General) (General) [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Author
Flinders Lane rap anchor (Araps)

jezza
30/03/2012
10:48:50 PM
U bunch of twits..... laziness and convenience are the reason that almost all of the rap anchors at Araps exist! Anyway if you find my anchor on Flinders Lane feel free to use it.

And Solly, how come I have to take the bumblies? You're the guy with no mates!

shortman
31/03/2012
12:00:32 AM
On 30/03/2012 jezza wrote:
>U bunch of twits..... laziness and convenience are the reason that almost
>all of the rap anchors at Araps exist!

Pigs arse. To me it seems as if they are there because of safety issues only. Not for convenience. Have a real good look next time. Take it all in and enjoy the journey down.
kieranl
1/04/2012
11:02:14 AM
On 30/03/2012 jezza wrote:
>U bunch of twits..... laziness and convenience are the reason that almost
>all of the rap anchors at Araps exist! Anyway if you find my anchor on
>Flinders Lane feel free to use it.
>
Change of tack to abuse. That'll work.
Actually convenience, safety and erosion prevention are all jumbled in together. You could argue for a rap anchor from Flinders Lane to help reduce traffic down the track below Ali's but you seem to have gone the dummy-spit instead.
As some of us have pointed out there are some problems with your suggested route. These are mainly related to the impact on one of Arapiles classic climbs, Kestrel. Turning it into a descent route, and one with rockfall potential at that, isn't acceptable.
ZERO
2/04/2012
1:34:13 PM
walked off from Flinders Lane on Saturday in my bare feet in about fifteen minutes, including inspecting a few routes and watching the kestrels do their thing on the way down.
What next?
A Flying Fox straight into the Pines?

rodw
2/04/2012
1:44:58 PM
On 2/04/2012 STEALTH wrote:
>A Flying Fox straight into the Pines?

Now ya talkin...get the Straddie reunion crew onto it...ODH can write the TR.
tariadamar
2/04/2012
3:09:56 PM
yeah i like that idea maby we should just use 4 strands of galvanised fencing wire instead. would make getting down easy.
Hugh
2/04/2012
3:31:31 PM
A flying fox isn't such a dumb idea.. That'ed be bloody brilliant!!!

jezza
3/04/2012
5:07:36 PM
>Change of tack to abuse. That'll work.
Ha, like anything would 'work'. I started this thread 'cause I was surprised there wasn't an anchor there and wanted to know why. Did you figure I was hoping someone would say 'Hey that's a great suggestion, let's do it'? Chockie's not like that. It's about washed out old dudes taking the crap out of each other, with some videos thrown in from time to time. :)

>Actually convenience, safety and erosion prevention are all jumbled in
>together.
Agreed, probably the wisest thing anyone's said on this thread.

>You could argue for a rap anchor from Flinders Lane to help reduce
>traffic down the track below Ali's but you seem to have gone the dummy-spit
>instead.
An anchor would help with erosion in several places on Flinders Lane, the cave, Alis, Fang, Bard, and down the bottom of Tiger. Your party would only have to make one trip along Tiger, not two. Na haven't spat the dummy, honestly. Just curious about why there wasn't an anchor there.

>As some of us have pointed out there are some problems with your suggested
>route. These are mainly related to the impact on one of Arapiles classic
>climbs, Kestrel. Turning it into a descent route, and one with rockfall
>potential at that, isn't acceptable.
I don't know if I agree with that, though maybe you're right. It'd have much more effect on Skylark and Skylark Direct. The rocks could get moved out of the way. There's also an anchor on Good, Bad and Ugly and another at the end of Marbuck that could (possibly) be used instead of the one of Kestral/Skylark.
simey
4/04/2012
8:31:07 AM
The simple fact is that the current descent from Flinders Lane is pretty reasonable.

I have put anchors above certain pitches on Tiger Wall (ie The Good, The Bad & The Ugly and above Marbuck) but this is where you are only a rope-length off the ground.

Once you are on Flinders Lane I fail to see how walking to a rap anchor, uncoiling two ropes, rapping one person at a time to the next anchor, pullling your ropes, rapping a second time, pulling your ropes and then coiling your ropes at the bottom and walking back to your gear is going to save you much time over the quick scramble through the cave and down Alis.
uwhp510
4/04/2012
9:42:55 AM
On 3/04/2012 jezza wrote:
>An anchor would help with erosion in several places on Flinders Lane,
>the cave (?!?), Alis, Fang, Bard, and down the bottom of Tiger. Your party would
>only have to make one trip along Tiger, not two.

How is the solid araps rock which forms the floor of the cave getting eroded on anything other than geological timescales?

Also, the number of trips to the bottom of tiger wall is lowest if there's no anchor and you are sufficiently non-bumbly to not leave any shit at the base of the climb (which is admittedly a big assumption).
ZERO
4/04/2012
12:39:04 PM
What's wrong with a pleasant walk across the top mixed with some pseudo caving?
Abseiling off means many climbers never experience this aspect.
It also allows gaining familiarity with the landscape, other routes and the all important PLAN "B" escape/rescue route should it hit the fan (as it often does on Tiger Wall).
kieranl
4/04/2012
1:43:52 PM
On 4/04/2012 STEALTH wrote:
>It also allows gaining familiarity with the landscape, other routes and
>the all important PLAN "B" escape/rescue route should it hit the fan (as
>it often does on Tiger Wall).
Very good point. A decade or so ago I did a climb on the Pharos (Throwim Way Leg) with Greg Pritchard. At the top I suggested that we go down the original descent route rather than the full rap thing as I hadn't done it in a while. I was surprised to find that Greg had never done it. We went down with a short rap near French Crack and another lower down. Greg was amazed to hear that we used to just solo down the route in the past. It certainly doesn't hurt to know your way around the place.
Olbert
4/04/2012
3:05:26 PM
When I was young we used to poke ourselves in the eye and then hack our way through the rock to the ground at an angle steeper than the climb we just did just so we could push our partner down the hole - and we enjoyed it! Young people these days have nooooo respect.

And by that I mean, what the hell is wrong with walking? It really isn't that far.

jezza
4/04/2012
4:46:36 PM
>What's wrong with a pleasant walk across the top mixed with some pseudo caving?
Nothing - though it loses it's charm once you've done it a few dozen times! True.... it's good to know what your alternative escape routes are. If there was a rap station there, there'd be nothing stopping you using the 'old' way from time to time. Similarly you can choose to walk off Pharos, Watchtower, Morfydd, Punks and many others, right?
ZERO
4/04/2012
4:58:33 PM
Sounds like the Bolting Faeries will not be sneaking out by the full moon to support your cause.
Consensus says "NO!"

jezza
4/04/2012
5:21:01 PM
What was surprising to me at the time, and prompted starting this thread was
- I can rap off Morfydd, but I could easily walk down Alis and back up the hill from the top of Morfydd

But to come down from YoYo and loads of other excellent climbs I have to
- walk down Flinders Lane (away from my gear at the bottom of YoYo etc)
- down slab, through cave
- down Alis with everyone else
- walk around Fang/Plaque/Bard etc.
- walk back along Tiger to my stuff

It just seems odd. That doesn't necessarily imply 'lazy person with a bolt gun'. I figured there must be a good reason. I'm not convinced there is a good reason. The reason seems to be 'It's not needed', but that reason could apply to loads of other anchors.

Anyway it doesn't really matter. I just down climbed Alis and raced back to my gear in 90 seconds, all while standing on my hands and being shot at by Simey.

White Trash
4/04/2012
5:51:23 PM
On 4/04/2012 jezza wrote:
>What was surprising to me at the time, and prompted starting this thread
>was
(and a buch of other stuff).

why not just mention the convenience?

it has me beat why convenience is so much part of climbing junkies these days. why not jst throw a match on it to get rid of all the pesky vegetation in the way as well?
kieranl
4/04/2012
8:00:13 PM
On 4/04/2012 jezza wrote:
>It just seems odd. That doesn't necessarily imply 'lazy person with a
>bolt gun'. I figured there must be a good reason. I'm not convinced there
>is a good reason. The reason seems to be 'It's not needed', but that reason
>could apply to loads of other anchors.
>
It means that none of the people who have been placing rap anchors over the years have thought it necessary. Another factor that noone has mentioned so far is that descent routes requiring two raps are inherently more dangerous and people are wary about creating them.
But, here's how it works. There is no committee that decides on these things or pays for them. Ultimately, if someone (i.e. you) thinks an anchor is a good idea then they go ahead and place it and incur the cost.
Then, irrespective of how many or few people you consulted, your anchor may be removed if someone objects to it. If that happens you wear it. If you have the right to put it in, someone else has the right to remove it.
Now, I wouldn't put in the anchor you are proposing - I think it is going to cause a problem with Kestrel. I think for that reason it is highly likely to get chopped so that's another reason for not placing it.
rolsen1
4/04/2012
8:34:11 PM
On 4/04/2012 simey wrote:
>The simple fact is that the current descent from Flinders Lane is pretty
>reasonable.
(snip)
>
>Once you are on Flinders Lane I fail to see how walking to a rap anchor,
>uncoiling two ropes, rapping one person at a time to the next anchor, pullling
>your ropes, rapping a second time, pulling your ropes and then coiling
>your ropes at the bottom and walking back to your gear is going to save
>you much time over the quick scramble through the cave and down Alis.
>

Most people choose the two raps down the watchtower slab as opposed to the walk. I'd use a double rap rather than walk from Flinders Lane every time, no opinion about where it should go.
simey
4/04/2012
9:19:56 PM
On 4/04/2012 rolsen1 wrote:
>Most people choose the two raps down the watchtower slab as opposed to
>the walk. I'd use a double rap rather than walk from Flinders Lane every
>time, no opinion about where it should go.

I rarely use the rap-descent down the Watchtower Faces. The walk-down is faster and I don't need to lug two ropes up the climb. The rap-descent takes even longer with extra people in your party.

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 55
There are 55 messages in this topic.

 

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