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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 3 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 61
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo Mackey's Lookout (General) (General) [ Mt Buffalo Guide | Images ] 

Author
The Bleeding Nun 520m Grade14? Mackeys Lookout.
mikllaw
28/01/2011
11:08:21 PM
Yes

And Mt Mcleod is longer again. But very walky scary slabby.It eats 50m ropes. Pitch 1 of DOA had 2 50s tied together and no gear just to get to the first ledge
One Day Hero
28/01/2011
11:39:35 PM
This thing is actually starting to sound like its worth a visit.

On 28/01/2011 mikllaw wrote:
> Pitch 1 of DOA had 2 50s tied together and no gear just to get to
>the first ledge

Makes me wonder if there was any point in carrying the ropes?

markq
29/01/2011
9:33:02 AM
It is if long run out slabs with out pro is your thing mate. We did good luck and good management yesterday. Great day, just wait for it to cool down a bit. Hotter than an arabs armpit up there
widewetandslippery
29/01/2011
9:48:14 AM
Its not as much as the yawn of working on a saturday.

There is lots of easy territory on our route. And yes it is that long. It was a surprise when we sat down after and recounted the route and the number of full pitches. It was just a follow your nose exercise and therefore ropes were pretty bloody nice.
One Day Hero
29/01/2011
10:25:29 AM
On 29/01/2011 markq wrote:
>It is if long run out slabs with out pro is your thing mate.

I rather like easy slabbing, and I really like the idea of a route in australia with 10 proper pitches.

You got on a 500m slab on mainland australia in the middle of summer, and the heat took you by surprise?
widewetandslippery
29/01/2011
10:36:19 AM
There seemed to be a lot of ground out there. We also passed some impressive bits of potential terrain that was a bit steeper and slicker than was what was attractive for two blokes who had a liquid lunch in the pub. If you do solo it take a brush!

edit: the rock was good.

Capt_mulch
29/01/2011
11:12:37 AM
How did you guys go for so long without beer??
widewetandslippery
29/01/2011
12:13:25 PM
Mulchy, how are you? Hows the bubs and missus?

No beer en route, just a breakfast where we decided we'd turn it into lunch. We didn't f--- around knowing how long NO was. As I've posted before after topping out WW hitched a ride with some japanese speaking japanese tourists to Warren and in the mean time I had the SES drive past and check me out prone on the side of the road waiting. And yes, then we had beer.
kieranl
30/01/2011
9:32:17 PM
Looking at the description of "Indelible Shuffle" I can see that it actually probably starts a little bit further down left of where it is shown in the earlier topo. This one is probably closer.


Cam McKenzie
31/01/2011
11:53:27 AM
hey MarkQ,
Think we saw your car parked at the base on Thursday. We didn't start until late (4:30 or so) so we didn't see you. On pitch 7 of GL and GM did you guys happen to try some sort of wacky direct version? There was chalk all over a hardish slab (low 20's I'd say having tried it) and also over a left leaning seam, both of which were left of the actual 7th pitch. I stupidly followed the chalk rather than the route description, and found the direct slab rather difficult for grade 15 and ended up aiding it by climbing a tree, then ending up in the middle of nowhere. I noticed the chalk ran out at that point too, so we ended up finding the right route and I bailed off a hex. Nice sandbag if it was you guys.

I think I may have found one of your biners at the belay in the niche on the arete at the top of the second pitch?

Did you guys notice some tat on the second bolt? Seems the runout on the first pitch has claimed its first victim.
gfdonc
31/01/2011
12:08:34 PM
On 31/01/2011 Cam McKenzie wrote:
>Did you guys notice some tat on the second bolt? Seems the runout on the
>first pitch has claimed its first victim.

First pitch of which route are we talking about? I presume you mean Good Luck and Good Management. In which case, tat on the second bolt is amusing, since the second bolt didn't exist until our third (or fourth) ascent the other weekend.

Superstu
31/01/2011
12:14:26 PM
Not quite. We were soloing across NO and GLGM to get to the other side (and the start of Trail of Blood) and rapped diagonally off the 2nd bolt on GLGM to avoid the scrappyness below.
Cam McKenzie
31/01/2011
12:27:40 PM
Ah right, it's all explained, yes, the second bolt was what I was referring to.

Superstu
23/11/2012
2:00:16 PM
On 30/01/2011 kieranl wrote:
>Looking at the description of "Indelible Shuffle" I can see that it actually
>probably starts a little bit further down left of where it is shown in
>the earlier topo. This one is probably closer.



Going back over old threads, I can conclude the routes Good Luck & Good Management and Count of Mounting Crystals will cover the same terrain as Indelible Shuffle. Trail of Blood meanders about 100m left of GL&GM and ran into the big diagonal overlap (obvious right-to-left diagonal shadow in the photo) and finishes in the bushes to the left to get around the overlap. I've never really figured out where The Bleeding Nun went but as the route description doesn't mention either the Shuffle Slab or the big overlap, I'm still punting its further left again.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
23/11/2012
2:17:10 PM
On 23/11/2012 Superstu wrote:
>Going back over old threads, I can conclude the routes Good Luck & Good
>Management and Count of Mounting Crystals will cover the same terrain as
>Indelible Shuffle, and are possible retrobolts of it. Trail of Blood meanders
>about 100m left of GL&GM and ran into the big diagonal overlap (obvious
>right-to-left diagonal shadow in the photo) and finishes in the bushes
>to the left to get around the overlap. I've never really figured out where
>The Bleeding Nun went but as the route description doesn't mention either
>the Shuffle Slab or the big overlap, I'm still punting its further left
>again.

Ah, so I am not the only one poring over old route descripts in that area!

Re your comment about GL&GM / CoMC and Indelible Shuffle.
I think that the photo-topo above shows Stiletto Slab and the aforementioned routes are further right, splitting the ground between Noblesse Oblige and Stiletto Slab!


The stuff that ajf is compiling in one document for VCC includes some good descripts and some reasonablly useful pics in that area, though I agree with you that The Bleeding Nun is a hard one to specifically locate.
Hey ww or ww&s, ... yawannaclimbitagainwithme?
If not, then I will just wander up all the known lines and help locate yours with my best guess (kind of like what JG has done?), as a proof-reading exercise for VCC feedback to the Guide.

On the subject of pics, JG's aerial ones are great, but even better would be to match them up with Cam's long range / zoom ones he took (last January), from the road below, if they become available?
gfdonc
23/11/2012
2:48:28 PM
>On 30/01/2011 kieranl wrote:
>>Looking at the description of "Indelible Shuffle" I can see that it actually
>>probably starts a little bit further down left of where it is shown in
>>the earlier topo. This one is probably closer.

Based on that topo, the last bit of CoMC finishes up the last half of Indelible Shuffle. The (faint) overlap below the left end of the traverse is the one that CoMC climbs through, then belays somewhere above the end of the traverse. Pretty easy slabbing at that point, I gave the last pitch gr 6.

Where can I find a route description for Indelible Shuffle?
kieranl
24/11/2012
9:25:58 AM
On 23/11/2012 gfdonc wrote:
>Where can I find a route description for Indelible Shuffle?
>
Should be in any of the Buffalo guides since Bangla's and also on ACA :
http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=route&route_id=18775
The easiest access of any of the orutes in the area. When I did it, I thought it was a fairly obvious starting point but one person's "obvious" could be another's WTF.

wallwombat
25/11/2012
11:31:10 PM
On 23/11/2012 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:

>Hey ww or ww&s, ... yawannaclimbitagainwithme?


yeah.

Bleeding Nun went up to the left of a big overlap and then pretty much went up.

Id love to climb it again, Don't know if I coiuld drag WW&S out of his packraft though

IdratherbeclimbingM9
26/11/2012
9:22:43 AM
On 25/11/2012 wallwombat wrote:
>On 23/11/2012 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>
>>Hey ww or ww&s, ... yawannaclimbitagainwithme?
>
>
>yeah.
>
>Bleeding Nun went up to the left of a big overlap and then pretty much
>went up.
>
>Id love to climb it again, Don't know if I coiuld drag WW&S out of his
>packraft though

Great. Looking forward to catching up again. PM me your available dates. Most dates after mid Dec are good!
~> You can do all the pitches that ww&s led, if you want a different experience on it!
widewetandslippery
27/11/2012
9:18:12 AM
I couldnt do it until January due to work. And packrafting. After that keen. If you fellas get the window though go for it.


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There are 61 messages in this topic.

 

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