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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo Mackey's Lookout (General) (General) [ Mt Buffalo Guide | Images ] 

The Bleeding Nun 520m Grade14? Mackeys Lookout.
12:53:45 AM
On 26/03/2008 shamus wrote:
>Think you strike out on the eye-candy bit too! :p

That goes without saying.

But as they say, beauty is only a light switch away.
10:22:10 AM
Hey wallwombat,
Any chance you can mark where The Bleeding Nun goes on this photo?

and email it back to me?

10:59:03 AM
I'll give it a go. Sit tight.

What are those two routes marked?
11:01:11 AM
Thats good because I'm confused!

11:36:42 AM
I'm as confused as WW&S but I gave it a go.

I am definite of a couple of things- it starts to the left of the two routes marked and it starts up a clean black and white slab, about 40m below a big black overlap/roof thingy and generally heads up left and up.

Once we were about two long pitches up, it became very hard to work out where we where. The first ascent was a lot more like an alpine climb than a rock climb. Starting the climb already lost (we where trying to find Noblesse Oblige) didn't make accurately marking the route very easy either.

Still, it was a very memorable climb and I'd love to go back to the area and try some other lines ground up. I think for those comfortable with the odd long run out, there is heaps to do there. I might even take the hand drill and a couple of bolts next time.
11:42:02 AM
I reckon it starts to the left as well The overlap just above the trees up the next clen line is around the start of pitch 2. Pitch 1 is hidden by the trees?

11:49:00 AM
On 21/01/2011 widewetandslippery wrote:
>I reckon it starts to the left as well The overlap just above the trees
>up the next clen line is around the start of pitch 2. Pitch 1 is hidden
>by the trees?

That's what I thought too.

There was a break through that overlap/roof but, if I remember rightly, neither of us were keen to try the direct and risk a big slab smashing fall. I wouldn't mind going back though. At the time we were simply trying to 'summit', if you know what I mean.
11:53:17 AM
I just updated the pic with what Adam sent me, refresh your browser.

Red = The Bleeding Nun (how appropriate)
12:53:39 PM
I'd give that a yep.

Actually, no I wont go there about the colour...
3:18:42 PM
I've posted a collection of the Mackey's Peak routes into an interim guide,

4:16:36 PM
Oh the controversy...!

Here is Trail of Blood. As we did it on Sunday its still pretty fresh in my mind. From the topo it would suggest TOB and TBN share ground, however there was no overlap on the first slab L of GLGM and no where to belay for 70m. We stayed right of a waterfall on pitch 4 but the creek was way left by pitch 8. No idea where the pillar was. None of the TBN pitch descriptions made sense so my thoughts that route is further left than is indicated on the topo.

4:53:46 PM

Did you have fun?

All our belays were solid. I'd have fallen on them all.

As I said before, that line I drew on the photo was a bit of a guess. Id' have to go back and climb it again to be sure of exactly where the route was.

I'm keen.

5:19:06 PM
Get your arse down to Buff this weekend then and we'll go exploring (my last weekend in NE Vic for a while)
Bring your bolt gun.
7:53:18 PM
Where is the closest train station? serious. Don't drive but I'm an expert in crossing the country side for a good bit of climbing, if I'm invited?

9:35:38 AM
Email me your plans. I'll pass by Benalla and Wangaratta around 6-7pmish on Friday night and again 7-8ish on Sunday night. Forecast is for clear sunny days, which means perfect weather for the plateau but could be an oven on the mackey schlabs.

6:07:50 PM
Aye, ww&s, I am going up on the bike in an hour (or maybe early tomorrow morning), for the whole weekend.
If you want to make it two teams of two(?), It'd be great to do TBN with one of its first ascentionists, before it gets bolted!
PM'd you my ph no.
12:47:25 PM
As people are giving this area a good going over I have had a look at Joe's aerial overview from ACA and marked in the approx line of the old route Indelible Shuffle. I'm guessing that the upper pitch or two of GL&GM goes somewhere near it. I can't remember how far left the traverse on it went (may have gone further left to the obvious line). It does have a runner at one point - a small wire that I belayed off when I took someone else on a roped repeat.
5:34:08 PM
Hmmm 520m of slab climbing.....yawn.
5:39:12 PM
On 28/01/2011 robertsonja wrote:
>Hmmm 520m of slab climbing.....yawn.

Not many bolts though?
One Day Hero
9:30:11 PM
I'm having trouble buying the idea of a 500m slab at Buffalo. Given that the long routes in the gorge are only scraping 250m, and the longest routes at booroomba are this slab really 2 x Angels butress? Is it really 3.5 x booroomba central slabs?

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There are 61 messages in this topic.


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