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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Author

The Phoenix (20) Resurrected!


Macciza

19/11/2012
10:28:38 AM

On 19/11/2012 PThomson wrote:
>Are the top sections really that worthwhile?

Of course they are! That's the route, and it gets you to the top . . .

It's like asking if you really need to finish a sport route after bouldering the start . .
Or asking if sex is really worthwhile after you've done the foreplay . . .

PThomson

19/11/2012
11:10:15 AM

Heh. Ever climbed the 2nd pitch of Menluff at Malaita wall, Macca? Gouging your eyes out is more pleasant than climbing that pitch (a shame, since the first pitch is pure trad gold), hence the validity of the question =P .


E. Wells

19/11/2012
5:36:41 PM

..Ive had some great foreplay...

duploboy

20/11/2012
10:10:56 AM

The climbing at the top is not as sustained and 'fark yeah' as P1 but still a great line with varied climbing....2 stars if not for the choss! Plus it's nice not to have to walk out.

Yeah was thinking about linking the Ben Trovato crack with Guillotine P2, but is that a stiff 24? Shame the rings bolts don't top out....


Edward Oslabofvic

20/11/2012
10:49:31 AM

On 19/11/2012 Macciza wrote:
>>Or asking if sex is really worthwhile after you've done the foreplay .
>. .

That's a really great point. So putting a bolted lower off before the top of a climb should be termed "Glory Holing", as you just get "the money shot" without all the foreplay and cuddling afterwards.

It's all so clear now.


benjenga

20/11/2012
5:04:31 PM

On 20/11/2012 duploboy wrote:

>Yeah was thinking about linking the Ben Trovato crack with Guillotine
>P2, but is that a stiff 24? Shame the rings bolts don't top out....
>

It would be a good link if you put a couple of long draws on Ben, the top pitch isn't that hard just pumpy, plus there is a ledge you can rest on.

There are 26 messages in this topic.