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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
blue mountains offwidths
jrc
25/10/2012
5:05:38 PM
well stu we used tube chocks and wedged in al bongs. sometimes we didn't use anything , eg on Fuddy Duddy. I once soloed peppercorner at mt york because noone had any big gear and i was bored waiting in line to do viparete.

I have a lovely set of 4, 4.5, 5 & 6" tubes in my dog* box at home. Havent been aired for 3 decades. Were lovely & rattly when you went beyond them on the rope...

when Phil Armstrong & i did QVic route in 77 we used the old 'alternating bong' trick to get up the horrid off width, i think that was the only part of the route we left aided-with good reason.
Nick
25/10/2012
5:33:20 PM
teaser and the firecat at firecat walls, wolgan valley
robbio
25/10/2012
6:46:55 PM
Nick Clow: I am amused by the proposition of doing climbs simply because you can use your no 6 cam on them : )

Well its not the only reason.

I AM genuinely interested in getting in some offwidth mileage, and now that i have some big gear, i have no excuse not get on more of them!
Wendy
25/10/2012
6:53:22 PM
On 25/10/2012 robbio wrote:
>Nick Clow: I am amused by the proposition of doing climbs simply because
>you can use your no 6 cam on them : )


Sounds like a perferctly reasonable reason to me! I did exactly the same thing when I was given my old style 4.5.


>
>Well its not the only reason.
>
>I AM genuinely interested in getting in some offwidth mileage, and now
>that i have some big gear, i have no excuse not get on more of them!

After you've worked up some mileage and made it down here, I have a few things that for some reason people aren't keen to go and do with me ...

E. Wells
25/10/2012
7:10:40 PM
I wish I had a on.6 on telstar. havent breathed that loudly in a while.

mikllaw
25/10/2012
11:13:07 PM
and if you want more offwidth I have a pair of 6 wide-country cams that live at Ado's woody in Bleakheath that are begging to be used.
robbio
26/10/2012
9:00:27 PM
Thanks for the offer re borrowing big friends, mikllaw. I'll keep it in mind
cogsy
28/10/2012
7:23:34 PM
I tagged along with the trad crew and did an absolute stonker OW at the Coal Mines today... Conspiracy, 16. It's absolutely brilliant, like doing Watchtower crack without the rubbish first two pitches. I used a BIG rack of BIG cams, and being a trad scaredy cat, placed nearly all of them!

E. Wells
28/10/2012
9:04:08 PM
hows that chain in the tree at the top?
bradc
29/10/2012
8:50:41 AM
the tree is in need of help. The two chains are in the process of killing it, so if anyone is headed out that way take some bolt cutters and some extra chain/d-bolts to lengthen them.
kieranl
29/10/2012
2:56:32 PM
On 25/10/2012 Wendy wrote:
>After you've worked up some mileage and made it down here, I have a few
>things that for some reason people aren't keen to go and do with me ...
Hey Wendy,
found another one at Arapiles for you, though you may have already done it. Old Rod Young route (how can you go wrong) called Leasehold in the Far North. Graded 16, though I avoided the face-climbing after the overhanging body-chimney. Lovely rock. A #6 camalot might even be useful because the #4 certainly wasn 't.
anthonycuskelly
29/10/2012
5:03:47 PM
I think I take the opposite approach, and avoid climbing offwidths because I don't have any big enough gear. Seems like a good excuse...

ajfclark
29/10/2012
7:51:21 PM
I'll lend you some.

(Hi Rod! Are you paying attention?)

wallwombat
29/10/2012
8:32:29 PM
I know it's not in The Blueys but has anyone climbed Functor 22 at Booroomba in the last decade or two?

ODH?

It's been on my hit list since I first started climbing but every time I stand underneath it, the terror sets in and I run away.
Wendy
30/10/2012
9:19:28 PM
On 29/10/2012 kieranl wrote:
>On 25/10/2012 Wendy wrote:
>>After you've worked up some mileage and made it down here, I have a few
>>things that for some reason people aren't keen to go and do with me ...
>Hey Wendy,
>found another one at Arapiles for you, though you may have already done
>it. Old Rod Young route (how can you go wrong) called Leasehold in the
>Far North. Graded 16, though I avoided the face-climbing after the overhanging
>body-chimney. Lovely rock. A #6 camalot might even be useful because the
>#4 certainly wasn 't.

I'll even be able to go do it soon! I saw my surgeon today and I am allowed to do easy climbs now, moderate climbs around xmas, hard climbs, Feb. I'm a bit excited about that. However, I have a shameful secret to confess. I don't actually own a 6 camalot. Everyone who does never seems to use theirs, so i just borrow them!

grangrump
30/10/2012
10:13:52 PM
On 29/10/2012 wallwombat wrote:
>I know it's not in The Blueys but has anyone climbed Functor 22 at Booroomba
>in the last decade or two?
Well it gets looked at by people crossing over onto Teenage Wasteland...
but I havent heard of anyone climbing it!
Sipple, to the right, is worth doing (definitely not an offwidth).

There's quite a few unclimbed offwidths around the ACT (Trojan, Gibraltar etc)

IdratherbeclimbingM9
30/10/2012
10:36:12 PM
On 29/10/2012 ajfclark wrote:
>I'll lend you some.
>
>(Hi Rod! Are you paying attention?)

Have been offline lately but now am back, and notice you are up to 4003 posts, with the quoted one here being the 4,000 milestone!
~> Hiphophooray foreezajollygoodcontinueingposter &allthatstuff! ... not that anyone is keeping tabs on these things... but it is good to have reasons to celebrate nevertheless!
;-)

wallwombat
30/10/2012
11:21:09 PM
On 30/10/2012 grangrump wrote:
>On 29/10/2012 wallwombat wrote:
>>I know it's not in The Blueys but has anyone climbed Functor 22 at Booroomba
>>in the last decade or two?
>Well it gets looked at by people crossing over onto Teenage Wasteland...
>but I havent heard of anyone climbing it!
>Sipple, to the right, is worth doing (definitely not an offwidth).
>
>There's quite a few unclimbed offwidths around the ACT (Trojan, Gibraltar
>etc)


I've climbed Sipple and it is a good route. Excellent, actually,

But Functor has always had me in it's grip.

Just looking at it makes me want to ring my mum.

wallwombat
31/10/2012
12:11:49 AM
Well I reckon that might be my 2013 goal (a good one for a boulderer) - climb Functor.

I have the rack but do I have the nads?
anthonycuskelly
31/10/2012
7:21:20 AM
Andrew, then I'd need to learn how to climb the damned things.

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40
There are 40 messages in this topic.

 

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