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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
blue mountains offwidths
robbio
24/10/2012
4:50:50 PM
Well after receiving a number 6 camalot for my birthday, i am on a mission to get some use out of it! On the weekend i was able to place it on the offwidth section of amen corner, and shuffled it up the first half of pepper corner at mount york. (pepper corner was sweet, it deserves more than 1 star in my opinion).

So..... what are some classic blue mountains offwidths? Any recommendations appreciated.
widewetandslippery
24/10/2012
5:01:58 PM
Transcendental meditation at zig zag.
mikllaw
24/10/2012
5:06:50 PM
the corner on Spartan (16) at Piddo,
Trple Echo (18) Coke Ovens Wolgan

there are 4 good offwidths at the Cathedral, Sydney

wombly
24/10/2012
5:13:10 PM
For name if nothing else, the monster offwidth at york.

E. Wells
24/10/2012
7:44:42 PM
Transendental Meditation is dry as a bone right now.... Its reputedly soft.

pmonks
25/10/2012
2:16:38 AM
Is Solomon at Piddo offwidth? Never been on it, but I seem to recall seeing a photo where it looked pretty wide (and bolted, but you could ignore those if you want to christen your new baby).

benjenga
25/10/2012
6:56:43 AM
I think the biggest cam I placed on Solomon is a number 4 BD, classic classy climb.

camjammer
25/10/2012
7:14:10 AM
Telstar at Ikara is a good place to wield a #6 in anger. The climbing isnt actually that hard but climbing out the open bomb bay door wakes you up.
One Day Hero
25/10/2012
8:18:38 AM
On 25/10/2012 pmonks wrote:
>Is Solomon at Piddo offwidth?

Nope, there is a short widish bit but the climbing is easy by then and there's a carrot. This route would be a good candidate for debolting now that cams have been invented (4 bolts next to perfect hand cracks). Super good climb which would get way more traffic if the money pitch were visible from the track.
mikllaw
25/10/2012
9:04:52 AM
absolutley debolt, I don't think anyone has used them since 75, the bolt at the crux is much harder to clip than slotting in a a big nut
jrc
25/10/2012
9:06:23 AM
i scraped my knee on that bolt in 78. it needs to come out!
Mr Poopypants
25/10/2012
10:06:07 AM
Those bolts are old aid bolts (very shallow and very dodgy) put in by Ewbank on lead, while standing on wooden wedges. Amazes me anybody clips them, unless they've put a good cam in next to them!
PDRM
25/10/2012
10:59:56 AM
Landslide Chimney, L corner of Dogface
mabsydney
25/10/2012
1:58:02 PM
The Gift at Ikara

King Toad at the Coke Ovens

Good luck, you'll need it!

Superstu
25/10/2012
2:24:52 PM
Why go all the way to the mountains to thrash around in something so fun you can put your whole body into?

Wide and beautiful at the Slab World....



Wazza on the first ascent last weekend...



Nick Clow
25/10/2012
3:32:20 PM
I am amused by the proposition of doing climbs simply because you can use your no 6 cam on them : )

Triple Echo is a great suggestion and the climb has some history, I believe. It is a line that begs to be climbed. However, a few years ago a whopping great fern had re-established itself in it.

Some other suggestions:

Vulgate 16, Mt York
Yank Ya Doodle 18, Mt York
The Monster Off-Width 21, Mt York

If you are truly, truly sick, then there is Chain Mail Crack 21 at Tarana. Granite. Nice.






rodw
25/10/2012
4:04:26 PM
Lol stu nicely done..always looked at that crack and always decided my cams weren't big enough and resisted the urge to bolt because i knew someone would do it on trad eventually....were did you get off?...step right to the lowers offs or did you stay true and get to the top and bash off or rap off?

No doubt you enjoyed the walk out.

Superstu
25/10/2012
4:34:29 PM
Wazza traversed to those lower-offs you kindly installed for us.

Not so much luck for some friends who did Chicken Run as their warmup for the day. They arrived back about lunchtime.

Superstu
25/10/2012
4:37:53 PM
Triple Echo is in good condition, get on it, you'll love it. You might want more than one big momma cam though. Flarked if I know how the dudes in the 70's got up those things pre-cams.

For something closer to home, Torniquet at The Cathedral. Or one of those fabulous overhanging trenches by Mikl.




rodw
25/10/2012
5:00:30 PM
On 25/10/2012 Superstu wrote:
>Not so much luck for some friends who did Chicken Run as their warmup
>for the day.

Lol...to get off head right at the top of chicken run along the top somewhere should be a fixed line down a short bit, then traverse along ledge and come down gully just right of the 21 on the arete...well at least they would be warmed up.

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40
There are 40 messages in this topic.

 

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