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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Northwest Camel's Hump Western Cliffs Omega Block [ Camels Hump Guide | Images ] 

Author
Satanic Verses at the hump info wanted
EvDog
15/10/2012
1:02:17 PM
Top roped this route ages ago, got really inspired, tried to do the start and experienced a serious WTF moment. Returned about a week ago and looked at the puzzling bottom section again, saw a bit of rock scarring and wondered if holds down low had perhaps broken off? Anyone got any info/beta on the start of this thing, I know that pretty much all the climbs on that side of the block have brutal start moves but this seems pretty much blank. Please let me know if I need to be either stronger, wiser or giving up.
chalkischeap
15/10/2012
1:13:01 PM
It's very thin moves until just past the 2nd bolt - no broken holds, you just have to boulder it out.

I can't remember the moves but it goes up a couple of meters, then traverse 2 or 3 moves rightwards, then keep snatching upwards on tiny things until the good holds appear.

Preclipping bolt 2 is a good idea. Make sure you do the direct finish as it's the best part. Stronger - yes, wiser - definitely, give up - never.
mattbrooks
18/10/2012
12:14:00 PM
Start was always very thin, even when I bolted it many many moons ago! Just crimp, slap and grit your teeth some more, thats the secret lol
EvDog
18/10/2012
3:29:35 PM
Thanks all, reassured that holds exist I will both look and pull harder the next time Iím at the hump, psyched on the route, the top 2/3rds Iíve been on are awesome, hereís hoping the bottom 3rd hold up its end on the 3 star deal.
Mark R
18/10/2012
4:40:54 PM
Its a beautiful thing... undercling to L hand crimp then choose your options... theyre all sharp! The bottom 1/3 doesnt add a star (it takes one away).. but it does add the meat and potatoes! Enjoy.

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