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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 31
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Northwest Mt Alexander Wabbit Wocks (General) [ Mt Alexander Guide | Images ] 

Author
Wabbit Wocks thoughts ..
Mark R
17/10/2012
12:46:20 PM
KP, did you ever get back to your bolted corner or know of an ascent? Climbed it about a month or three ago... Pretty cool moves. 26?

shortman
17/10/2012
1:20:22 PM
Thanks Rod. I actually am onto it. I've just never experienced the lifting upward/sideways at the same time. Duly noted.

Miguel75
17/10/2012
2:02:54 PM
I was climbing with some newish trad leaders yesterday and we spent a fair bit of time discussing the importance of a directional first piece. On one of the last climbs the leader didn't set a directional first piece and experienced the upwards-sideways pull on the first piece (a mid sized nut) when they sat on the rope...

It was a good learning experience for everyone watching as you could actually see the reason behind the theory...

ado_m
17/10/2012
2:18:37 PM
What do you expect climbing on crappy granite blob crags? Those places are injury central, stick to TRs or else.
kp
17/10/2012
3:17:40 PM
On 17/10/2012 Mark R wrote:
>KP, did you ever get back to your bolted corner or know of an ascent? Climbed
>it about a month or three ago... Pretty cool moves. 26?

Cool. That would be a FA i think. Damn..... 26 is soooo hard on granite!!! I couldn't ever work the top out...

Mark i have two more open projects at scorpian rocks that you should try. One is really good 27/29 ish... other is pretty average 26 ish. Out of interest..which area has had the bolts dehangered??
gfdonc
17/10/2012
4:04:17 PM
On 17/10/2012 Miguel75 wrote:
>I was climbing with some newish trad leaders yesterday and we spent a fair
>bit of time discussing the importance of a directional first piece.

Worth adding that in some cases it's not just the first piece, but anywhere the angle changes. For example, when the angle steepens (say an overhang) your last piece before the overhang needs to take an outwards pull. ref The Good, the Bad and The Ugly.


IdratherbeclimbingM9
Online Now
17/10/2012
4:29:45 PM
On 17/10/2012 gfdonc wrote:
>On 17/10/2012 Miguel75 wrote:
>>I was climbing with some newish trad leaders yesterday and we spent a
>fair
>>bit of time discussing the importance of a directional first piece.
>
>Worth adding that in some cases it's not just the first piece, but anywhere
>the angle changes. For example, when the angle steepens (say an overhang)
>your last piece before the overhang needs to take an outwards pull. ref
>The Good, the Bad and The Ugly.
>

+1, but here is a scary thing...
~> It can also happen when there are no angle changes, and the belay is directly under the climb plus close to the wall; ... Reference this thread for when it happens on climbs where the protection is thin/marginal !

That first piece of protection is not called a Jesus Piece for no reason!!

shortman
17/10/2012
5:07:18 PM
They are all Jesus Pieces!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
Online Now
17/10/2012
5:11:27 PM
On 17/10/2012 shortman wrote:
>They are all Jesus Pieces!

Nah, the followers are apostles*...

(* another interesting climb location, where gear no matter how 'solid', is virtually useless...)

shortman
17/10/2012
6:41:07 PM
Thanks for the thread link M9.
skegly
17/10/2012
7:07:34 PM
Come on rod ya need to get a bit more south to climb the pleasure of .mt alex rock.;-)

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 31
There are 31 messages in this topic.

 

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