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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Crag X/Shire bouldering (Grampians)
2:00:11 PM
Would like to take a look at the bouldering around the shire/crag x area this weekend. Firstly someone mentioned this area might be closed due to the seasonal love-fest of a rare breed of wallaby but the parks website has nothing I can find, anyone? Also, though I know the area, know how to get there and have a listing of the established problems by name and grade, I have no idea what is what/where, if anyone has beta, pics of problems or better yet, a map or fully developed yet never released secret guide book they could send my way that would be awesome and I'll be your friend forever (I am loyal and stoic; think sexy seeing eye dog).
3:38:23 PM
If this is the Crag X(only one I know of) on Red Rock creek, it's not closed. The last rock wallaby in this area deceased many years ago, causing the simultaneous demise of a Phd Project. As to the location of problems there, I have no idea.
There is an area closed for Rock wallaby reintroduction in the Serra range, Near eastern Wall, Tower hill etc.

salty crag
9:27:44 PM
A few buddy's and I have been dabbling in the area for a few years. Just recently there has been a bit of interest i.e. the walk in track has seen a fair bit traffic. Lots to do there, sorry no help with beta, have fun.

10:13:25 AM
It's very easy to find. Just wander towards Crag X from Red Rocks road keeping to the right side of the creek. There are problems about 10 mins in and all the way up to the right end of the crag itself. You can't miss the crag - it's the massive north facing Taipan Wall looking chunk of rock that sadly doesn't quite 'work' as a proper crag. Too much blankness. I have a word doc that someone made in 2005 listing a dozen or so problems. Not sure if its supposed to be a secret though...
10:36:49 AM
On 16/08/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>It's very easy to find. Just wander towards Crag X from Red Rocks road
>... . I
>have a word doc that someone made in 2005 listing a dozen or so problems.
>Not sure if its supposed to be a secret though...
I don't get the "secret document" thing.
It's one thing to decide that no details will be published/printed/distributed because an area is sensitive. In that case let it be known that the area is not to have details recorded.
But writing a cheat sheet and distributing it only to the worthy smacks of elitism.

10:42:55 AM
Without being privy to the reason could be more a case of keeping track of whats being developed for whoever is part of the development loop?...part of the main attraction to developing news areas is having the place to yourself...not everyone likes climbing in a crowd...I certainly wouldn't construe that as being elitist.
11:05:28 AM
I also get the new development thing, have done it myself, but this area seems a bit beyond the initial development stage.
12:44:46 PM
Thanks for the info people. Found some interesting odds and sods around eagle rock and at the top of the slabs underneath the red rock sectors higher up the hill, maybe 20 good problems? (Of which we did about 4 that day). The addition of near by pre-developed stuff makes the return trip much more appealing, so thanks.

1:11:09 PM
OK, this is a direct copy paste from the Word doc I was given about 7 years ago.
2:42:08 PM
Thanks Neil. I'll have to ask Brendan if there are any updates.
3:58:22 PM
My brother Mike and I have met the young farmer Matt who recently bought the grazing land that runs between Red Rock Rd and the Western slopes of the Victoria Range (i.e. the access to Crag X with the big cut down tree: image from Nalle who went looking for any projects there last trip: ).

Matt is a nice bloke and has lived around there all his life. Anyway, he does not have public liability insurance for that land and he requested that access to Crag X is made via the southern boundary of his property. This is done by walking along the last dirt rd that turns right off red rocks rd before the paddock if you are driving north from Billywig track. Head up the rough track for a few hundred metres and then skirt along the bush high up on the hill tracking under eagle rock.

I know it's a pain and it takes longer, and I know that the previous owner of the land allowed climbers access, but at the moment we have to respect that it's private property.

So to be clear: until further notice, please do not cross the paddock to get to Crag X and surrounds.

With respect to the "recent traffic" on the track - it's not traffic, it was trackwork by my brother and I over the last couple of years.
4:24:20 PM
Presumably this includes Red Rocks access as well?

5:43:39 PM
It's funny to read people's opinions and involvement in the "development" of this particular area. It seems there are a few parties who have been active around the shire over the last few years.

I think the first time I bouldered out there was maybe 2008? I was taken out there by my good friends, a pair of strong lads from Horsham. The two brothers spent at least the last decade out there bouldering and cleaning boulders. Now, to set the record straight after Kieran, not surprisingly, jumped the gun and got on his high horse about "crag secrecy" and "elitism" I thought I would put forward what I know about this rad little place.

Unlike the northern grampians bouldering, down south things tend to be very spread out. The quality of the boulders is outstanding, but quantity, or more specifically concentration, leaves a lot to be desired. The brothers and along the way fellow avid boulderers/explorers would wander about the place, away from the crowds, more interested in the process of discovery and realization that goes with first ascents as opposed to following the masses up established problems. Now there is nothing wrong with that, as I myself cut my bouldering teeth claiming the 107th ascent of problems like 'wimmelfriedhoff' or 'the nevin rule'. But each to their own I believe. Anyway, these boys, believe me, have not a whiff of elitism to them. They just love exploring and doing new stuff. So this has sort of been their own private Idaho since the vast majority of Victorian boulders aren't into that sort of thing. Fair enough. The fact is that the area is so spread out and heavily vegetated that the putting together of a little guide would prove quiet difficult. I returned to the area last year with a mate. And low and behold had no luck in finding any of the boulders I was shown initially, but did find a couple of new ones. These guys haven't been secret about it, and are always keen to buddy up with anyone interested in a boulder, but unfortunately not many people are. Especially if t doesn't have a guide with names and numbers to follow.

And now it seems that a few other people are using the area as their own little exploration paradise. Which is awesome I think. There's a chance they have done first ascents of problems already climbed, and a guide would have cleared that up, but really who cares about such specific things! It's about the process. And as long as folks are getting out there with initiative and enthusiasm for discovery, and are being rewarded by getting the chance to climb some rad boulders, and most importantly having fun, then keep at I say.

I have spent many, many, many, MANY a day bashing about the grampians, north and south, in search of boulders. 99% of the time coming out empty handed. But that's how it goes. I'll keep searching.

salty crag
10:22:17 PM
Well put alrob. Each time I return there to complete an unfinished problem I end up totally distracted by the fun of the search. Climbing (and bouldering) without guide book or beta and no chalk or obvious wear signs is great fun, it's a buzz working out problems. Thanks to the previous post for the info re the walk in.
9:22:04 AM
Keiran - yes, the farmer asked that red rocks be accessed by the sandy road that hooks around the square paddock to the north side then southward under Mt Fox. At that point there is a little track continuing southward that takes you to Red Rocks. Again, it's a pain since the walk across the paddock is quite a bit faster.

9:46:49 AM
I'm quite amazed that that land is private property? For 15 years I have been walking across that land to access Red Rocks in the assumption that it was private land reclaimed and added to the National Park. I certainly saw no evidence of farm equipment or domestic animals, and there is no fence between it and the National Park. Kangaroos and emus swarm over that land every evening. Guidebooks to the area have never mentioned the private property aspect. I always joked that it would be the very best land to own to build a dream house for a climber! I had no idea that it was actually possible to buy it!!! I would have put in a hefty bid if I knew. In recent years (since I have been away from Vic) I see that people have actually been driving across that land to park almost directly below the Red Rock pinnacles. The fence next to Red Rock Rd is half fallen down which is why they ca now drive across the grass lands.
9:55:09 AM
This access change needs fairly wide dissemination before the climbing season gets well under way. Dave, if you haven't done so I'll pass the content of your post onto Tracey at Cliffcare, Argus and update TheCrag and ACA. We don't want to get on the wrong side of the farmer.

10:41:35 AM
On 21/08/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>I'm quite amazed that that land is private property?

Are we talking about the white area to the east of red rocks road?

10:51:49 AM
Discussions about private property problems have moved to new topic....
1:09:52 PM
Thanks for all the info people, unfortunately the access info came 1 day to late; we did approach crag x by walking across the paddock, apologies to the farmer and we will avoid this approach in the future. On a brighter note the trip was fantastic; if anyone is interested in bouldering at crag x I can highly recommend it. Al rob has summed up the vibe there perfectly; its quality over quantity, that said there are plenty of problems there, many of which you canít help but find as you walk along the creek side track that leads to the crag proper. The location comes complete with running creek and waterfalls, lots of wildlife and awesome quality rock in the form of sweet highball boulders, it was almost so picturesque as to seem at times contrived; with the addition of some shit 90ís tunes I could have sworn I was in an episode of dosage half the time. If you like exploring, developing or simply climbing on problems which arenít so chalked as to give away all their holds and beta on the first glance, then check it out. Highly recommended.

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