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Loose flake on Checkmate (17) |
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10-Aug-2012 11:50:46 AM
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Did this route for the 2nd time last Saturday. For safety reasons, I wanted everyone to know that the flake on the wall just below the crux (in the 'alcove') is loose. It moved a little when I used it as a crimp. It's about the size of a serving platter.
With my belayer below I didn't want to try and prise it off, and she left it alone too. There's probably not much chance it will fall off by itself and it's quite avoidable.
I don't recall this was a problem when I did the route a few years ago. Any regulars care to comment?
If it was removed it might create a sizeable new hold. Anyone want to venture up there with some glue?
- Steve
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10-Aug-2012 11:51:44 AM
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I seem to remember thinking the rock in the alcove was a little suspect and vaguely remember something being loose.
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10-Aug-2012 12:07:56 PM
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From memory that stone is keylocked. It has been loose since the dawn of time I suspect and isn't going anywhere. It is part of the spice of the route. Quit blowing people's onsights.
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10-Aug-2012 12:25:50 PM
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I reckon Bard and Checkmate have a lot of dubious blocks. They have always been part of these routes. It's worth warning people to be on their guard though.
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10-Aug-2012 12:33:33 PM
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the flake creaked 10 years ago when i did checkmate, gets the adrenalin going to do the crux !
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10-Aug-2012 12:55:50 PM
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Was loose when I grabbed it in the 90's. Completely wigged it at the time.
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10-Aug-2012 1:00:01 PM
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Sounds like it needs an extra bolt.
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10-Aug-2012 1:29:12 PM
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Or take the Glueys approach and fill the gap behind it with 2 L of ramset...
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10-Aug-2012 1:49:20 PM
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There's always been some loose rock on that section. No need to go near it with glue - It's unlikely to come off and the route will hardly become unplayable without it. Leave that sort of nonsense to the glueys where the rock calls for it.
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10-Aug-2012 2:00:41 PM
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On 10/08/2012 egosan wrote:
>From memory that stone is keylocked. It has been loose since the dawn
>of time I suspect and isn't going anywhere. It is part of the spice of
>the route. Quit blowing people's onsights.
Hm. From memory Sol your onsight attempt has been completely blown .. and your belayer had to render her assistance at the time?
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10-Aug-2012 2:13:23 PM
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That rattling block rattled me good and yea and I had to harden up a bit to finish it clean. But if it isn't a surprise then it isn't as much fun.
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10-Aug-2012 2:59:46 PM
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>No need to go near it with glue - It's unlikely to come off and the route will hardly become >unplayable without it. Leave that sort of nonsense to the glueys where the rock calls for it.
Damn internet and it's inability to display sarcasm. What kieran said.
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