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VIC Arapiles Bard Buttress (General) (General) [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ]

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Loose flake on Checkmate (17)

gfdonc

10-Aug-2012
11:50:46 AM

Did this route for the 2nd time last Saturday. For safety reasons, I wanted everyone to know that the flake on the wall just below the crux (in the 'alcove') is loose. It moved a little when I used it as a crimp. It's about the size of a serving platter.

With my belayer below I didn't want to try and prise it off, and she left it alone too. There's probably not much chance it will fall off by itself and it's quite avoidable.

I don't recall this was a problem when I did the route a few years ago. Any regulars care to comment?

If it was removed it might create a sizeable new hold. Anyone want to venture up there with some glue?
- Steve

cruze

10-Aug-2012
11:51:44 AM

I seem to remember thinking the rock in the alcove was a little suspect and vaguely remember something being loose.

egosan

10-Aug-2012
12:07:56 PM

From memory that stone is keylocked. It has been loose since the dawn of time I suspect and isn't going anywhere. It is part of the spice of the route. Quit blowing people's onsights.

simey

10-Aug-2012
12:25:50 PM

I reckon Bard and Checkmate have a lot of dubious blocks. They have always been part of these routes. It's worth warning people to be on their guard though.

dave1962

10-Aug-2012
12:33:33 PM

the flake creaked 10 years ago when i did checkmate, gets the adrenalin going to do the crux !

wombly

10-Aug-2012
12:55:50 PM

Was loose when I grabbed it in the 90's. Completely wigged it at the time.

ChuckNorris

10-Aug-2012
1:00:01 PM

Sounds like it needs an extra bolt.

wombly

10-Aug-2012
1:29:12 PM

Or take the Glueys approach and fill the gap behind it with 2 L of ramset...

kieranl

10-Aug-2012
1:49:20 PM

There's always been some loose rock on that section. No need to go near it with glue - It's unlikely to come off and the route will hardly become unplayable without it. Leave that sort of nonsense to the glueys where the rock calls for it.

gfdonc

10-Aug-2012
2:00:41 PM

On 10/08/2012 egosan wrote:
>From memory that stone is keylocked. It has been loose since the dawn
>of time I suspect and isn't going anywhere. It is part of the spice of
>the route. Quit blowing people's onsights.

Hm. From memory Sol your onsight attempt has been completely blown .. and your belayer had to render her assistance at the time?

egosan

10-Aug-2012
2:13:23 PM

That rattling block rattled me good and yea and I had to harden up a bit to finish it clean. But if it isn't a surprise then it isn't as much fun.

wombly

10-Aug-2012
2:59:46 PM

>No need to go near it with glue - It's unlikely to come off and the route will hardly become >unplayable without it. Leave that sort of nonsense to the glueys where the rock calls for it.

Damn internet and it's inability to display sarcasm. What kieran said.

There are 12 messages in this topic.