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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Author
Rings on Return of the Toe Cutter Gang - Mt York

stugang
10/08/2012
3:46:43 PM

I'll take you up. As long as I can belay. Seriously - I have to belay otherwise no bananas. Needs to be in Sept b4 the 18th.
uwhp510
10/08/2012
3:57:38 PM
On 10/08/2012 tnd wrote:
>I'm all for leaving routes from, say, grade 22 upwards bold as hell. Why
>not leave 21 and below for beginners/those working their way up? The so-called
>hard men look down their noses at those grades anyway.

So I'm guessing your onsight limit is round about....I don't know... 21?

The whole point is that safe routes are already ALMOST ubiquitous these days, especially in the Blue Mountains, so I'm sure that the "beginners" can manage to work their way up to grade 22 without EVER having to clip anything other than rings if that's their bag. The thing is that no-one having done their sub grade 22 apprenticeship on 100% safe stuff is ever going to get on anything bold. Working your way up to being a bad-arse, like any other worthwhile pursuit, is best started early on :)

Sabu
10/08/2012
3:58:14 PM
This is hilarious. I love it when chockstone shenanigans spill into the real world!

nmonteith
10/08/2012
4:08:25 PM
I'll chip in $50 if ODH onsights it.

davidn
10/08/2012
4:18:50 PM
Can he really onsight it? He knows so much about the climb already.

Better make the bet about a flash. Just quietly, if I were him I'd be emailing all my friends: 'don't say anything, but if you've got any beta on this climb...'

;)

tnd
10/08/2012
4:22:08 PM
On 10/08/2012 uwhp510 wrote:
>On 10/08/2012 tnd wrote:
>>I'm all for leaving routes from, say, grade 22 upwards bold as hell.
>Why
>>not leave 21 and below for beginners/those working their way up? The
>so-called
>>hard men look down their noses at those grades anyway.
>
>So I'm guessing your onsight limit is round about....I don't know... 21?

Nope, higher than that. But that's nothing to do with it.

>The whole point is that safe routes are already ALMOST ubiquitous these
>days, especially in the Blue Mountains, so I'm sure that the "beginners"
>can manage to work their way up to grade 22 without EVER having to clip
>anything other than rings if that's their bag. The thing is that no-one
>having done their sub grade 22 apprenticeship on 100% safe stuff is ever
>going to get on anything bold. Working your way up to being a bad-arse,
>like any other worthwhile pursuit, is best started early on :)

I developed my skills mainly on safe low grade stuff and worked my way up the grades to the low 20s. That then gave me the confidence in my ability to push it out a bit on routes like those under discussion, when I felt like doing so. I would say there are plenty of people who learned the same way.

There's nothing bad-arse about doing these bold routes. Nobody does them intending to fall. They're confident in their ability. It's all about giving yourself a thrill with a bit of contrived danger. I'm as partial to that as anyone. Big deal.
gfdonc
10/08/2012
4:24:08 PM
On 10/08/2012 Cliff D wrote:
>Any amount up to $100 says ODH OSs The Rage This Season. And if he Oss
>it, I'll donate the winnings to the Araps rescue group. Any takers?

And if he doesn't .. surely the $100 goes to the Mt York Rescue Group?
dalai
10/08/2012
4:26:11 PM
The issue isn't solely about this particular route, but the trend where climbers today feel it's okay to change a route to a form that suits themselves. Rather than step up and take it on as it stands!

It's not like there isn't enough rock in the Bluies that they can't create their own routes, or better yet replace bolts (one for one with a type similar to existing - there is still room for hangerless glue in bolts and not add) needing fixing in existing area's if they want to do a community service?

Given specific routes like these getting specifically selected for retroing, it reeks of actually being a selfish act that appears driven by the individuals inability to climb the route as is!

There are so many variations of the game climbers play and cliffs for them to do it. We really don't need every cliff to be grid bolted?

stugang
10/08/2012
4:47:02 PM
Yep - I'm up for it $100. BUT I have to belay on my new sticht plate.

nmonteith
10/08/2012
4:49:43 PM
On 10/08/2012 Cliff D wrote:
>On 10/08/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>>I'll chip in $50 if ODH onsights it.
>
>Neil, are you saying that if ODH OSs the route, you'll donate (chip in)
>$50 to the Araps rescue group?

Yes
One Day Hero
10/08/2012
5:55:20 PM
So now the bloke who'll be holding my rope is betting against my success? That's just peachy.

Anyone want to take side bets on whether I get short roped for the clips?

E. Wells
10/08/2012
6:43:44 PM
Damn it, wait until after Sept18th, BTW Nick, oh ..I mean Dick..heheh (penis) , with all the fuss and advertising this thing has recieved it will probably have some white stuff on the bumpier bits. Cant wait to read about it when I get home!

stugang
10/08/2012
7:04:37 PM
On 10/08/2012 Cliff D wrote:
>On 10/08/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>>So now the bloke who'll be holding my rope is betting against my success?
>>That's just peachy.
>>
>>Anyone want to take side bets on whether I get short roped for the clips?
>
>I'd the same thought, but figured you guys were mates!

I wouldn't dream of short roping a stranger.

Yeh, I guess we're mates - depending on your definition.

Anyway are there any suggestions for alternate charities....maybe the bogan cliff bolting fund?

Needs to be a real alternative - otherwise there wont be any spice.

shortman
10/08/2012
7:07:52 PM
This is gold. I'll put another $100 on ODH to OS it.






shortman
10/08/2012
9:20:52 PM
On 10/08/2012 Cliff D wrote:
>On 10/08/2012 shortman wrote:
>>This is gold. I'll put another $100 on ODH to OS it.
>>
>Good on yah Dan. Am I correct that you are saying that you're pledging
>the Araps rescue group 100 beans if ODH OSs the route; and if he doesn't,
>you keep your money? So its not a bet per se. More like a pledge.
>
>This means that if ODH is successful, the Araps rescue group will get
>$250: 100 from me (my winnings from bet with Stugang), 50 from Neil (pledge
>like you), and 100 from you (your pledge).
>
>Does this warrants its own thread? Wouldn't it be great to raise a grand?

Na, I'll give ODH a $100 to buy hack saw blades.

EDIT: Cliff deleted his post for some reason?!?

shortman
10/08/2012
9:35:35 PM
On 10/08/2012 davidn wrote:
>Can he really onsight it? He knows so much about the climb already.
>
>Better make the bet about a flash. Just quietly, if I were him I'd be
>emailing all my friends: 'don't say anything, but if you've got any beta
>on this climb...'
>
>;)

Far out davidn!

Do u think ODH is a dumb fugger?

He is probably already on the way "to top rope the shit out of it"

That's what people do isn't it?
simey
10/08/2012
11:09:15 PM
I'm surprised no one is offering their money to go to the Arapiles Bolting Fairies.
widewetandslippery
10/08/2012
11:45:30 PM
because fairy may be considered derogatory but this is australia and there is nothing wrong with an illegal betting ring

hangdog
11/08/2012
12:39:10 AM
On 10/08/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>So now the bloke who'll be holding my rope is betting against my success?
>That's just peachy.
>
>Anyone want to take side bets on whether I get short roped for the clips?

I would pay $100 to the rescue group to be the belayer!! Can we bid to be the belayer??
Shit i would postpone the euro trip to be in on this.
I am in for $50 if he climbs it.

hangdog
11/08/2012
9:24:49 AM
On 11/08/2012 Cliff D wrote:
>Peter, are you saying that you'll pay 50 to the Araps rescue fund if ODH
>onsights The Rage?

Yep. Wont insist on the onsight though. Leading placing gear as he goes. $100 if he does it wearing Boreal Aces.
The rescue fund could make a lot moreif you auctioned the belaying to all the people he has pissed off over the years.

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There are 383 messages in this topic.

 

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