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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
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Author
Rings on Return of the Toe Cutter Gang - Mt York

rodw
1/08/2012
3:36:31 PM
Wait...what.....I have a reputation...and here I thought no one cared. \o/

Also what do you mean by fantasy grade???? and which route have you climbed to confirm said grade as fantasy
TonyB
1/08/2012
3:54:24 PM
Don't let the useless dickhead get to you Rod. You've done a fantastic job of safe bolting a huge number of routes, including some classics. It's great to see your grades are fairly accurate. Who needs sandbags ? We should all be thankful for the work you have done.

BTW, the belay tree on Septic Penguins is now dead and is bound to topple at some point.

rodw
1/08/2012
4:03:03 PM
Not to worry Tony I'm a big boy and can take ODH rants with a grain of salt....though he is entitled to his opinion, as are others but I am interested in what climbs of mine he climbed considering I bolt in new places that ODH has condemn as choss and not worthy.

Btw glad you enjoy the routes you have done of mine, I enjoyed putting them up which is what it comes down to for me anyway TBH.

grantoss
1/08/2012
4:11:56 PM
On 1/08/2012 TonyB wrote:
>Who needs sandbags

I reckon sandbags are all part of the game mate! Would be boring without the odd sandbag floating around to spice things up

E. Wells
1/08/2012
4:20:23 PM
What a beautiful day it was at Mt York today. So glad to see the new rings in the 24 next to Exhibition wall. Thanks ........h.
One Day Hero
1/08/2012
5:25:40 PM
On 1/08/2012 TonyB wrote:
> You've done a fantastic
>job of safe bolting a huge number of routes, including some classics.
>It's great to see your grades are fairly accurate.
>
>BTW, the belay tree on Septic Penguins is now dead and is bound to topple
>at some point.

No offence Tony, but your credibility as an assessor of safety (or anything else) went to shit somewhere between the misdiagnosis of the new carrots at Cosmic and your famous extrapolation of global temperature trends based solely on the preceding 3 years.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
1/08/2012
6:18:30 PM
In 1975 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 1/08/2012 TonyB wrote:
>> You've done a fantastic
>>job of safe bolting a huge number of routes, including some classics.
>
>>It's great to see your grades are fairly accurate.
>>
>>BTW, the belay tree on Septic Penguins is now dead and is bound to topple
>>at some point.
>
>No offence Tony, but your credibility as an assessor of safety (or anything
>else) went to shit somewhere between the misdiagnosis of the new carrots
>at Cosmic and your famous extrapolation of global temperature trends based
>solely on the preceding 3 years.

Yougunna hold that against him forever ODH?
;-)
widewetandslippery
1/08/2012
6:25:34 PM
This is getting good.

Sandbags are what its about, my only caveat is not cool if you're lining up a punter for death. Think bdms safe words.

Bolt routes are bolt routes and I reckon bolt routes get rebolted with rings.

I am against retros but if a good piece of real estate has been wasted for a shit route (not bold) a retro solution in a sport climbing context makes sense

ODH quality is way over rated

IdratherbeclimbingM9
1/08/2012
6:27:06 PM
On 1/08/2012 Superstu wrote:
>In this sandstone country a topout belay anchor is invariably a number of scragly bushes or a shallow rooted tree, and they seem to suffer if used repeatedly for anchors.

The same can be said for Bungonia and that is limestone country...

>Maybe hangerless glueins at the top but if you're gonna mess with a drill and glue then why not throw in two rings over the edge instead?

... because it erodes the adventure and camaraderie components of climbing?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
1/08/2012
6:56:01 PM
On 1/08/2012 widewetandslippery wrote:
>This is getting good.
>
>Sandbags are what its about, my only caveat is not cool if you're lining
>up a punter for death. Think bdms safe words.
>
It is interesting the grade that people choose to sandbag with...
Mikl used to use grade 22?
... while I have heard it said that others prefer Gd 16.
~> Maybe vwills can comment about another teams use of that? ;-)

>Bolt routes are bolt routes and I reckon bolt routes get rebolted with
>rings.
>

You are dissing the aussie heritage of brackets?

>I am against retros but if a good piece of real estate has been wasted
>for a shit route (not bold) a retro solution in a sport climbing context
>makes sense

Another solution would be to embolden it by chopping a few bolts?
>
>ODH quality is way over rated

Agreed!
Heh, heh, heh.

Macciza
1/08/2012
8:59:49 PM
On 1/08/2012 dangermouth wrote:
>What a beautiful day it was at Mt York today. So glad to see the new rings
>in the 24 next to Exhibition wall. Thanks ........h.

Please tell me this is a joke - if not it is a travesty . . .

climbau
1/08/2012
9:48:57 PM
On 1/08/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>To the moron who is scared of 1.5m wide trees as belay anchors (because
>one fell over once)..........it doesn't actually matter whether you're
>belaying off the thing or not, if it decides to fall over while you're
>sitting there (attached to those shiny new rings), you're probably fuched
>anyway. Seriously, are you such a pussy that you can't feel safe toprope
>belaying off a single giant gumtree? Maybe climbing isn't for you? Really,
>I mean that.
Where in my post did I say I was afraid to use a tree as a belay?
And the tree fell away from the cliff edge, and I did still belay off the sucker cause there was no way I was going to drag 10+ tonne of wood off the cliff. :)
Wollemi
2/08/2012
8:43:28 AM
On 1/08/2012 hangdog wrote:
>If you want to top out "old school "style why dont you just skip the lower
>offs and top out. Obviously not valid at shipley due to conservation issues
>but mt york is a different proposition.

Conservation issues?? Not mocking anyone, I just didn't realise the area had 'conservation issues'.

hangdog
2/08/2012
9:31:45 AM
On 2/08/2012 Wollemi wrote:

>Conservation issues?? Not mocking anyone, I just didn't realise the area
>had 'conservation issues'.

To reduce the erosion at the top of the crag.
Topping out is nice but it does create problems with erosion. The top of shipley is much better because of the lower offs.

Macciza
5/08/2012
10:54:41 PM
On 1/08/2012 Macciza wrote:
>On 1/08/2012 dangermouth wrote:
>>What a beautiful day it was at Mt York today. So glad to see the new
>>rings in the 24 next to Exhibition wall. Thanks ........h.
>
>Please tell me this is a joke - if not it is a travesty . . .

Damn - It's not a joke - It's a bloody travesty!
How anyone could possibly do this is beyond me ....
Worst case of route defiling I have seen - kills two routes . ..
It is an insult to anyone who has climbed, attempted or contemplated the climb.
The climb does not need those rings - it has been done without them!
Established bold climbs should not be dumbed-down to gym-junkie standards.

I would suggest that whoever put them in might like to take them out
and replace the original bolts if they were removed - with glue-in hangerless bolts
In there original positions or as close as possible.
Otherwise someone will certainly do it for you.

If you can't climb it the way it is - then piss-off and leave it alone!
And don't even think of adding anymore to the other route there . . .

E. Wells
6/08/2012
3:35:37 PM
How about the hangers going up software freak but staying in the corner initially, it is now a really nice 17 replacing for the most part a crappy death route. Looked at the rings in the rage this season and it still looks like a nice bold moment between the last ring and the pedestal where it joins E.Wall, if the 'culprit' in question ever climbed in a gym I reckon there would be another bolt. Now a few people might actually get on it and grind it down to a 26! I myself am not interested......yet.

Macciza
6/08/2012
6:07:26 PM
Software Freak as well? 17?? Wasn't it 23??
And Rage is also ~ 23 but a bit run-out . ..
Samuel
7/08/2012
8:50:22 AM
Fact is. No body climbed it. And if you feel so strongly go jump on it and make the first clip where the original first bolt was. Then go mouthing off. The ground has eroded, so the start is now lower. The ledge has gotten smaller, and there is a tree missing that may have stopped you from falling off the ledge if you where lucky. It has not been over bolted, just made safe and it still has a feel of boldness.

Macciza
7/08/2012
9:22:23 AM
Fact is - a very select few have climbed it or attempted it. And yes I have tried it.
The ground erosion is not that great - the ledge has not gotten massively smaller.

It has been overbolted - they even appear to stick-clipping the first rung which you would be able to clip after doing the first move which is just a little bolder problem - ridiculous.

It has been overbolted - there are probably 3 or 4 rings before the original first clip.
It does not need to be made 'safe' by some 'under-achiever' with gym-junkie mentality . . .
It does not have any boldness to it now at all - stick-clip the first, dog the rest, boring . . .

It is one of the most ridiculous and insulting act of 'bolt-ulism' in a long time. . .
I don't think Weigand would approve, and many climbers I spoke to feel likewise.

Someone will be removing them very soon so if you want to climb it on rings - do it now . . .
Just don't think that you are in anyway climbing the original route as it is temporarily renamed.

It's currently 'The Risque (Risk-gay) this Season' but soon (after) 'The Rage against (non)Reason' it will be back to it's original glory, and only slightly sullied by the experience . . . .

BlankSlab
7/08/2012
10:21:15 AM
I wouldn't normaly enter into a topic like this but i find it hard not to in this case.

I have only been climbing for 12 months or so but like the history and the culture behind the "old School"

Replacing carrots with rings i guess you could look at it as "do u still use rigid friends or the new modern versions?"

The addition of bolts on the other hand could be like me getting out a concrete saw and cutting in some new horizontel breaks in a TRAD route cause i think its not well enough protected... I wonder if the people agreeing with the new botls would be against me doing that.... Just something to ponder.

Isnt there plenty of "SAFE" climbs already in the area?

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There are 383 messages in this topic.

 

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