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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Author
Rings on Return of the Toe Cutter Gang - Mt York
spicelab
28/08/2012
10:37:31 PM
On 28/08/2012 stugang wrote:
>
>Update: jokes aside - ODH is doing OK. Doc reckons his ankles will be
>back to 100% pretty soon. His left knee is another question.

He must have landed pretty awkwardly to modestly injure his ankles but royally stuff his knee. Still, I guess these are the kind of things that can happen when you're hammering in wires on lead.

stugang
28/08/2012
11:10:24 PM
On 28/08/2012 spicelab wrote:

Still, I guess these are the kind of things that
>can happen when you're hammering in wires on lead.

Yep - good call spicey - next thing you know the most bomber kid off the block is whipping off Orestes....If it can happen to him i guess it can happen to anyone.
White Gold
28/08/2012
11:30:01 PM
I reckon he's clearly done the climb. He doesn't need to comment if he was successful. But if he didn't make it and fell I'm pretty sure he would've been one of the first to comment on here. that's my theory anyway.
You guys have made a good pact with each other to keep it quite. Are we really going to have to wait until the movie is released? When's the expected release date?

wallwombat
29/08/2012
12:01:08 AM
He posted on the Ama Dablam thread at 8:10 tonight. He seemed OK then.

simey
Online Now
29/08/2012
12:15:56 AM
On 28/08/2012 spicelab wrote:
>Still, I guess these are the kind of things that can happen when you're hammering in wires on lead.

He shouldn't have wasted his energy trying to hammer in those poxy wires on lead. I thought the gaffer-taped skyhook was sufficient to go for it on that section.
One Day Hero
29/08/2012
10:46:50 AM
Now that someone has called me to ask how bad the injuries are, it has dawned on me that some clarification might be required.

I haven't even been up to the Blueys yet (too busy), but will hopefully get up there soon for the big Mt. York showdown. Sorry to disappoint all the sportsfans who're following this one, and were anticipating a result......it is still going to happen, but it hasn't happened yet.

Also, Stugang has piked, which is lame but predictable. Apparently he's planning a week of classics in the Gramps instead. However, that doesn't really make sense seeing as all the classics in the Gramps are too difficult for him.......so, who really knows what's going on there?

Climboholic
29/08/2012
11:14:14 AM
Date and time? I want to plan a trip around it.
White Gold
29/08/2012
11:23:25 AM
Common ODH your letting the team down. I've been hitting the refresh button since sunday arvo in anticipation....
Good tactic though as you can raise some more money now.
I'll put $50 towards Arapiles Rescue Mob if you make the OS.
One Day Hero
29/08/2012
11:24:29 AM
Sorry dude, this is not the most important thing in my life, nor should it be in yours. I'll get up there when I have time and the weather looks good.

The fuchin' route is apparently still retrobolted, so the two possible outcomes are; wobbling up it onsight, or taking a short fall.........neither is going to be interesting enough to justify a special trip up just to be a spectator.
Olbert
29/08/2012
12:48:54 PM
On 29/08/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>The fuchin' route is apparently still retrobolted, so the two possible
>outcomes are; wobbling up it onsight, or taking a short fall.........neither
>is going to be interesting enough to justify a special trip up just to
>be a spectator.

I walked underneath it a few weeks back and I can attest that it's still a ball shrinker.

With what I've seen of the route, I disagree, this is a spectacle worth seeing - if only I wasn't doing something else worthwhile...
Nick Clow
29/08/2012
2:04:02 PM
I agree, you'd have to be nuts to try it.

The grade of 23 truly belies the E9 / V11 / 5.13+ X nature of the route.

widewetandslippery
29/08/2012
2:27:14 PM
I was looking to hear how odh had fallen on stugangs head and stugang was writing a trip report with the eyesight of a dalek

stugang
29/08/2012
2:42:47 PM
On 29/08/2012 widewetandslippery wrote:
>I was looking to hear how odh had fallen on stugangs head and stugang was
>writing a trip report with the eyesight of a dalek

I can still do the TR - choose you own ending style.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
29/08/2012
4:13:18 PM
On 29/08/2012 stugang wrote:
>On 29/08/2012 widewetandslippery wrote:
>>I was looking to hear how odh had fallen on stugangs head and stugang
>was
>>writing a trip report with the eyesight of a dalek
>
>I can still do the TR - choose you own ending style.

... since you obviously have the beginning already stitched up!

Hey Clff D, you need a third category of funding request...
~> ODH's physio bill recuperation fund!
Heh, heh, heh.

After the 'ODH show', I am more interested in the outcome of Macciza's ascent once the retro-chop is done.

Rocksinmyhead
29/08/2012
7:28:53 PM
Damn! Got sucked in like buttered spaghetti by that one. f--- you, shortman and stugang. :-)

Glad to hear you're unhurt though, ODH.

davidn
29/10/2012
9:08:06 AM
I see Nick got in an ascent of the route in question yesterday. Still no report on the status of the bet? Is it off completely?

Perhaps Cliff could give us a summary... ;)
jrc
2/01/2013
11:07:27 PM
yes but Zipper with 3 extra bolts. the RTC rings are ugly as...
Nick Clow
3/01/2013
8:28:43 AM
I agree John

My views also (for what they are worth):

1) Rings are fine at 'new school' sport climbing crags like Logan Brae, The Freezer, Bowen's Creek, The Glen etc, where the nature of the climbing and rock makes for good sport climbing.

2) Rings do not belong at 'old school' crags like Piddington, York, Zigzag, Cosmic etc, where the climbing and established style is for routes to be on gear/carrots and the odd fixed hanger where necessary (i.e. this is not sport climbing).

Unfortunately, this argument is a bit late in the day as rings started appearing at crags mentioned in 2) about 7 or 8 years ago.

I would further say that if I was writing a guidebook for the Blue Mountains I would use French sport grades (e.g. 7a+, 7c, whatever) for sport crags and Ewbank grades at 'old school' crags. It might help people (especially those coming into climbing from gyms) understand the difference.

hangdog
3/01/2013
8:53:03 PM
On 3/01/2013 Nick Clow wrote:


>
>I would further say that if I was writing a guidebook for the Blue Mountains
>I would use French sport grades (e.g. 7a+, 7c, whatever) for sport crags
>and Ewbank grades at 'old school' crags. It might help people (especially
>those coming into climbing from gyms) understand the difference.

Is this a wind up?? You have to be kidding!!
>

E. Wells
3/01/2013
9:01:13 PM
I think some sport climbs should be graded white , blue , yellow, red or black ( for the hard ones) and there should be killer python vending machines (and benches) at every spurt crag cos spurt climbers are pussies. (400)

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There are 383 messages in this topic.

 

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