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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 55
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All QLD (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Rack for frog
jw
1/07/2012
8:51:30 PM
Am heading up to frog for the first time in a week or so and was wondering what I need on my rack. At the moment I've got a set of c4s from 0.3 to 3, 2 sets of nuts and only 3 hexes. I've haven't done much crack climbing so looking at the easier grades, 17 and below. Am I likely to need doubles of any sizes of cams, or maybe even some bigger cams/more hexes?

benjenga
1/07/2012
9:01:12 PM
70m rope is very usefully for some of the routes that you normally need twin ropes.
Make sure you get on smoked banana, 17 and oh so classic.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
1/07/2012
9:25:44 PM
On 1/07/2012 jw wrote:
>Am heading up to frog for the first time in a week or so and was wondering
>what I need on my rack. At the moment I've got a set of c4s from 0.3 to
>3, 2 sets of nuts and only 3 hexes. I've haven't done much crack climbing
>so looking at the easier grades, 17 and below. Am I likely to need doubles
>of any sizes of cams, or maybe even some bigger cams/more hexes?

You should get up plenty of routes at Frog with that rack, but the caveat would be what you might consider to be 'run out'; ... and this also dependant on what your climbing partner may have to supplement it with.

If your budget extends to buying gear specifically for the trip, then doubles of 'hand-to-small hands crack' size pro would be useful, and if offwidth's are your thing, then you can never have enough big cams!

~> Get ready for a heap of replies that will cover everything from RP's to-


Re the 70 m rope comment. It could be useful, but climbers have successfully used 50 m ropes there since forever!

pezz
1/07/2012
9:41:19 PM
Just got back from my first trip there, doubles are very handy in hand to fist size, in saying that i placed a lot of hexs and nuts. A few slings are handy as there are a lotof chockstones in the low to middle grades. We got bye with a single 60

cruze
2/07/2012
7:25:55 AM
I walked off the top of infinity after my partner rapped on our single 60. Not a very pleasant experience and dropping rocks.sticks onto your partner is a real possibility. That is you can make do with one single 50/60, but having a second rope (naturally doubles, or even a second single/half stashed below and get the first person down to tie it on and haul it up to the anchor) would be best for the longer classics.
Wendy
2/07/2012
8:20:45 AM
i take a triple rack of almost every size cam to frog. At least one 4 and preferably a 5 camalot will save you sanity a few times as many routes end up offwidth at some stage. I always take doubles.

Frog is at its best in the mid grades - 18-24ish. A lot of the easy routes will feel desperate if you are not used to cracks. Relatively gentle intros amongst the potential horrors would be Witches Cauldren p1, Electric lead, Materialistic prositution, Devil's wart, micron, bad company. If desperate for more in that grade, electric mud, shit heap and horse drawn zepplin baren't as good, but are quite reasonable propositions. Elecrtonic flag (don't go up the marked corner! it's 19 and goey, start out left) and mechanical prune are also great, safe, but slightly less straightforward. Elastic rurp and Sorcerer's apprentice are probably the most friendly next steps up, infinity and plume are also safe as houses, but if you struggle with ER and SA, you'll be struggling a bit more.
anthonycuskelly
2/07/2012
9:32:48 AM
Interesting... I learnt to lead trad at Frog, and basically only climbed in the OP's grade range. At that point, triples are overkill, doubles (I meant that, not singles) in .5-2 are good on some of them. I've never carried a 5 there but have accidentally soloed a 14 as a result...

I'd say Horse Drawn Zepp (16) is easier than Materialistic Prostitution (16), Elastic RURP (17) is awesome, Shit Heap is a nightmare if you don't like fist jams. Plume is easy for 19 (I think), Gladiator is hard for 18, but both are well protected.

For most climbs, especially in the OP's grades, a 60m rope is fine.

nmonteith
2/07/2012
10:36:39 AM
Resurrection Corner! Classic jamming. Doubles in hand to fist good, bring some large hexes to back them if you can't get your hands on more cams. When I first climbed at Frog I owned no cams and somehow got myself up most of the classics in the low 20s. Walking off is what everyone did prior to 2000.

Eduardo Slabofvic
2/07/2012
11:20:11 AM
I learnt to climb at Frog and did everything up to 24 and never owned anything bigger than a three friend (4 friends were the biggest cam you could get back then). I had doubles of each cam, plus you always have your partners gear as well.

That said, we used to improvise larger gear by cutting up sections of steel pipe and slingging them (they were pretty awful though - and I never actually fell on one), plus we sometimes had to hose it out up the occasional route.

Blood Sweat and Tears anyone?
steve peckman
2/07/2012
12:44:18 PM
In the sub 18 range everything can be done entirely on passive gear. The rack you have would be fine for most routes up to the low 20ís. Although I also have a double rack for the lines that demand lots of the same size cams you wonít need them and if you do you will be able to borrow them. There are about 20-30 permanents up here at the moment who you will be able to borrow key gear from if you need it.

If you were to expand that rack for this trip and the grades you are climbing I would add a couple more hexes and an extra grey .4 purple .5 green .75 and red 1 and maybe a grey#4 C4 for the grades you will be looking at and above.

A 70m rope will get you of most routes although a 50-60 and walk offís will work too, I use a 70.

Have fun see you soon Steve.

nmonteith
2/07/2012
1:00:37 PM
On 2/07/2012 steve peckman wrote:
>There are about 20-30 permanents up here at the moment who you will be
>able to borrow key gear from if you need it.

Wow! I never knew it ever got that busy.
kieranl
2/07/2012
2:02:18 PM
Somewhat OT but relevant to Frog - does anyone have a copy of the article "Toadwand Commentary" that appeared in Thrutch some time in 70s.
That's an article that could do with re-publishing.
It was a spoof on some of the oh-so-serious US climbing articles of the time which rejoiced under titles such as "El Cap Commentary". It purported to deal with the pioneering of routes up the road to Frog before it was sealed (at least that's as I remember it).
Don't know what brought that to mind, but it would be great to see it again.
One Day Hero
2/07/2012
2:24:37 PM
Although you 'can' lead stuff at Frog on one set of cams, once you get to 17/18 most of the routes are long, uniform cracks and life will be much easier with at least doubles and preferably triples in the sizes which are obvious for the size of crack you're climbing. Leading stuff like Resurrection Corner or Infinity, at your limit, first time at the crag, and with only one set of cams would suck pretty hard. Hanging around to frig in decent gear would be the crux.

Also, all the locals know what gear to save for the the top half of the route. If you try to onsight climbs with the same amount of gear the queeenzlanders carry on their 50th lap, you will get scared. What appears to be skill and bravery is often just insider information.

Mr. Peckman gave you some good advice though. There'll be piles of cams up there lying unused every day. If you have social skills, it should be pretty easy to borrow what you need.
steve peckman
2/07/2012
3:04:06 PM
Yep Neil there would be 25 or more live inís currently up there. It has been packed the last few weekends. But still heaps of quality stuff to get on. The moderate classics have had the odd cue forming but there is still plenty to get on.

ODH I agree that a second rack of cams is very useful for anything over 18 but not essential.

Finger to fist sized gear is the best stuff to double up on. (#0.3 - #2) BD
One Day Hero
2/07/2012
3:31:31 PM
On 2/07/2012 steve peckman wrote:
>
>ODH I agree that a second rack of cams is very useful for anything over
>18 but not essential.
>
Yup, but add a grade or two for the extra effort of frigging hexes in.........or subtract a grade for all the cam-cheats, depending on how old you are ;)

I seem to remember thinking that the ideal rack for stuff like Resurrection Corner and Infinity would be 4x(red, yellow, and blue), a couple of draws, and nothing else...........is my memory defective?

nmonteith
2/07/2012
3:46:17 PM
I didn't place a single wire on my last trip to Frog. Or a hex. Cams cams and more cams.


nmonteith
2/07/2012
3:46:44 PM
On 2/07/2012 steve peckman wrote:
>Yep Neil there would be 25 or more live inís currently up there. It has
>been packed the last few weekends. But still heaps of quality stuff to
>get on. The moderate classics have had the odd cue forming but there is
>still plenty to get on.

And who said trad was dead!
One Day Hero
2/07/2012
4:11:08 PM
On 2/07/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>And who said trad was dead!

Ummm, I'm guessing Bundy? Or maybe that weird dude who's been gridding Kiera with rings (apparently including bits of rock that aren't even routes)?
jw
2/07/2012
5:47:44 PM
Thanks for all the advice. We're taking a 60m single and 50m doubles, so should be ok rope wise. Might try and borrow or few more cams before we leave (or borrow a couple up there), sounds like they'll come in handy
daave
2/07/2012
10:34:52 PM
+1 for the 70m Rope.

A trip up there 2 years ago, we got up nearly everything on a single and we made it down on every rap on a 70m....just. Only having to worry about one rope made things nicer i reckon.

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There are 55 messages in this topic.

 

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