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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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All NSW (General) (General) (General)

Author

Watagan's must do climbs.

benjenga

25/06/2012
8:16:19 PM

Hi chockstone peeps, I am heading up the coast this weekend to catch up with a friend so I thought that I would check out monkey face in the watagan's national park. Any must do climbs that you can recommended??
Cheers.

Duang Daunk

25/06/2012
8:26:36 PM

Yeh, the climb Up Simeys Left Nostril is an absolute classic, and Monkey Face has never been the same since that one was put up.

pezz

25/06/2012
9:37:15 PM

What grades?

vwills

25/06/2012
11:10:47 PM

Go to Buladelah or Jolls bridge or one of the central coast crags unless a friendly local can orientate you to Tomaree Head (sorry I'll be in NZ)....

If you must go to MF add 2 grades to whats in the guide and youll be about right for: Profanity, Bereska, Joes climb, Weena, Feeling the Pinch, Colour card, Drop the Pilot. Some people seem to like the boluder problem of space ape. If you want a slab try Smear to Oblivion.

Beware of lazy snakes, leeches and bogans breaking into your car.
Ness

loz and tim

25/06/2012
11:42:39 PM

Also the bottom access road has been closed by Parks after the recent rain, and a large gate installed. They assure me they are going to fix the road. The only access is via the top car park. Follow Mt Faulk Rd up the hill turning left about 2km's after the locked Bagalow creek rd. Park at the "gap creek lookout" car park (2wd will make it here). Following walking track for 200m past some good looking boulders, then head down the hill after you come across on old wooden marker, don't go down the gully to early as it is choss at the top. You should arrive at the top of the Big Banana.

I was out there on Friday and everything was dry no seepage. Weena (23) is a must and also Apple Arete (18) and RS (17). All pretty good. The guide has all the old school grades. A new update is in the works. Enjoy!!!

benjenga

26/06/2012
6:43:58 AM

Thanx Tim and Vanessa (have fun in NZ).
Those climbs that you suggested were on my hit list but it seams that a most people are telling me to climb else where.

Aidan

26/06/2012
8:30:19 AM

I'd recommend 'Don't Bother', 'It's Not Worth Your Time' or 'Stay Away!'. But if you must go there the things the others have suggested are ok. You're way better off heading to Bulahdelah.

pete_w

27/06/2012
8:06:59 PM

Ive been climbing on the central coast for almost 10 years and have only recently been to monkey face as everyone poo poos it so much.

I actually think the climbing is good around the main gulley (the only place I have been) provided you are happy with trad stuff - Tims new anchors on some of the routes definitely make it more appealling - I wouldnt be so happy on those old manky carrots or having to dick around bringing up a second etc. It can be a bit sandy/dirty etc but most places on the coast are like that due to really low traffic.

Everything is a bit of a sandbag but thats half the fun.

If you are staying in Newcastle, then I agree that going north has better options, and there is heaps of good stuff on further south if you are on the central coast (depending what you are after).

benjenga

27/06/2012
9:33:18 PM

>If you are staying in Newcastle, then I agree that going north has better
>options, and there is heaps of good stuff on further south if you are on
>the central coast (depending what you are after).

So I looks like we are going to head to the lobster cave now, the guy I am catching up with wants to head there after getting psyched up from piper. Should be fun.
If any one else is in the area on Saturday I shall see you there.

There are 9 messages in this topic.