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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 52
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
International (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Phi Phi - Accomodation
mattbrooks
24/05/2012
2:41:31 PM
The Tsunami threat is not so big a worry now as the warning systems are in place all across that section of coast. Just keep in mind what you will do if one does happen. Thankfully we were well on dry land when it occurred. Went for a morning ride from Ao Nang that day!!! Made a mess though.

rodw
24/05/2012
2:41:52 PM
On 24/05/2012 One Day Hero wrote:

> His argument was that it's
>irresponsible to export a single climbing style to a foreign culture. The
>Chinese are being robbed of the opportunity to learn different styles and
>make their own decisions by a bunch of foreign climbers who teach them
>how to bolt but not how place gear.

I think that idea in itself smacks of western elitism anyway to be given much credit....if the Chinese can reverse engineer anything the west makes or builds I'm pretty sure they can work out the "art" of climbing all by themselves if they really wanted to...and hes really just sprouting his own well known agenda. Like all things he may say...... some Chinese will agree with him, some will disagree with him....but I doubt they really need him to protect them from foreign influences.
Linze
24/05/2012
4:13:31 PM
On 24/05/2012 benjenga wrote:
>Sorry I threadjack bundy but has anyone climbed in Thailand in late June/July?
>I know it's in the middle of the wet season but on the rain charts it
>looks like the low point so it may not rain all day, just in the arvos.
>
>Thoughts?

dont do it at any time. others will disagree, but i dont reckon thailand comes close to heaps of other desitinations for a bunch of reasons. i am pretty sure you are the dude that put up that direct start to the 22 warm up at bell right? if so you climb prob beyond what i see as the decent climbing threshhold of thailand. agian i am sure that others will disagee, but while though that the climbing 6b+ through to 7a+ was fun enough, i never thought much of the stuff that i hopped on from 7b through to 8a+. every time someone mentions climbing in thialand here i rubbish tonsai, if i can save one person from going I consider it worth it. plus the thai food at 'spice i am' in Sydney SH*Ts on anything in tonsai.
One Day Hero
24/05/2012
4:39:52 PM
On 24/05/2012 rodw wrote:
>I think that idea in itself smacks of western elitism anyway to be given
>much credit....if the Chinese can reverse engineer anything the west makes
>or builds I'm pretty sure they can work out the "art" of climbing all by
>themselves if they really wanted to

It's western sport pussies who bolt the routes over there, not locals. In order to learn other styles of climbing, the chinese climbers would have to travel..........I'm not seeing that happening yet.

>...and hes really just sprouting his
>own well known agenda.

How about your agenda? Have you ever gone on an overseas climbing holiday and taken a rack with you?

stugang
24/05/2012
5:23:53 PM
This thread got me thinking about what places in Oz are good for family holidays (a week or over) with a non - climbing family? I.e. where it is possible to get in a day or two of half decent climbing in amongst doin other shit with the kids and partner. Europe has gazillions - but where in Oz, bearing in mind you'll prolly need to hook up with someone to climb with (unless you bring one with you in hand luggage).

I can think of:

Blueys
Nowra/pt perp (if you stay at the beach! Not in Nowra)
Townsville/mag island (didn't climb there but since found out it is ok for climbing)

Surely there are others?

Now I think about it I really should have started a new thread.

rodw
24/05/2012
5:29:48 PM
On 24/05/2012 One Day Hero wrote:

>How about your agenda?
What agenda???.

>Have you ever gone on an overseas climbing holiday
>and taken a rack with you?

And whats that got to do with anything, you trying to compare climbing dick sizes again?



Pat
24/05/2012
5:49:18 PM
On 24/05/2012 elaphantitis wrote:
>This thread got me thinking about what places in Oz are good for family
>holidays (a week or over) with a non - climbing family? I.e. where it is
>possible to get in a day or two of half decent climbing in amongst doin
>other shit with the kids and partner. Europe has gazillions - but where
>in Oz, bearing in mind you'll prolly need to hook up with someone to climb
>with (unless you bring one with you in hand luggage).
>
>I can think of:
>
>Blueys
>Nowra/pt perp (if you stay at the beach! Not in Nowra)
>Townsville/mag island (didn't climb there but since found out it is ok
>for climbing)
>
>Surely there are others?
>
>Now I think about it I really should have started a new thread.

Northern Gramps is OK if your family want to walk and look at giant bronze and fibreglass koalas.

Pat
24/05/2012
5:50:33 PM
Also, South Western WA would surely fit this bill. Parts of Tas as well.

shortman
24/05/2012
6:22:42 PM
On 24/05/2012 elaphantitis wrote:
>This thread got me thinking about what places in Oz are good for family
>holidays (a week or over) with a non - climbing family? I.e. where it is
>possible to get in a day or two of half decent climbing in amongst doin
>other shit with the kids and partner. Europe has gazillions - but where
>in Oz, bearing in mind you'll prolly need to hook up with someone to climb
>with (unless you bring one with you in hand luggage).
>
>I can think of:
>
>Blueys
>Nowra/pt perp (if you stay at the beach! Not in Nowra)
>Townsville/mag island (didn't climb there but since found out it is ok
>for climbing)
>
>Surely there are others?
>
>Now I think about it I really should have started a new thread.

KP Stu. Your favourite place.
One Day Hero
24/05/2012
7:14:59 PM
On 24/05/2012 elaphantitis wrote:
>Europe has gazillions - but where
>in Oz, bearing in mind you'll prolly need to hook up with someone to climb
>with (unless you bring one with you in hand luggage).
>
Coolum! However, you have to be into sieging hard, cavey things. The friendly locals seem to be there every afternoon, so partners wouldn't be a problem. It seems to be as good a place as any for a family beach holiday, but with a big cave up the hill
One Day Hero
24/05/2012
7:22:18 PM
On 24/05/2012 rodw wrote:
>
>What agenda???.
>
Well, you accuse Barber of having an agenda because he likes putting up and climbing trad routes. You seem to like putting up and climbing sport routes.........what's the difference?

>>Have you ever gone on an overseas climbing holiday
>>and taken a rack with you?
>
>And whats that got to do with anything, you trying to compare climbing
>dick sizes again?
>
Simple. If you never go on overseas trad climbing holidays, then it's in your interests for pussies to bolt up cliffs everywhere, so that you'll have more places to travel to. I don't really respect peoples views on bolting if they don't climb on gear at least some of the time.

rodw
24/05/2012
7:34:34 PM
On 24/05/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 24/05/2012 rodw wrote:

>Well, you accuse Barber of having an agenda because he likes putting up
>and climbing trad routes. You seem to like putting up and climbing sport
>routes.........what's the difference?

I was just saying he is not exactly coming from and neutral view point...if the locals were up in arms about it..that is different story...they certainly do not need some foreigner to champion their case....and like with most things like this.....I give way more weight to local views on local issues rather than some blow in from afar.

I do like putting up sport routes but certainly don't preach to others to do the same..be it in my own country or a different one.

>I don't really respect peoples views if they don't agree with me.

There I fixed that for ya..must have been a typo.


benjenga
25/05/2012
6:22:29 AM
>On 24/05/2012 Linze wrote:

>dont do it at any time. others will disagree, but i dont reckon thailand
>comes close to heaps of other desitinations for a bunch of reasons. i
>am pretty sure you are the dude that put up that direct start to the 22
>warm up at bell right? if so you climb prob beyond what i see as the decent
>climbing threshhold of thailand. agian i am sure that others will disagee,
>but while though that the climbing 6b+ through to 7a+ was fun enough, i
>never thought much of the stuff that i hopped on from 7b through to 8a+.
> every time someone mentions climbing in thialand here i rubbish tonsai,
>if i can save one person from going I consider it worth it. plus the thai
>food at 'spice i am' in Sydney SH*Ts on anything in tonsai.

Yeah that's mine route, your spot on.
The only reason I ask about tonsai is we were thinking of heading there on the tail end of 6 months climbing trip of a life time around Europe with my partner. So it more of a holiday at the end of a holiday to relax on the beach and do a little bit of climbing. She missed out last time I went there.
I fully agree that I would not go there as a one destination climbing holiday, I would prefer to go explore china.
Cheers.
One Day Hero
25/05/2012
9:19:36 AM
On 24/05/2012 rodw wrote:
>
>I was just saying he is not exactly coming from and neutral view point

And I'm saying nor are you. Unless you go trad and mixed climbing reasonably regularly, then it's probably in your interests for everything everywhere to get bolted to shit. Just out of curiosity, how long since your last trip to Araps? Frog? Any traddy crag?

...if
>the locals were up in arms about it..that is different story...they certainly
>do not need some foreigner to champion their case....and like with most
>things like this.....I give way more weight to local views on local issues
>rather than some blow in from afar.
>
The "locals" (people who equip routes) are a bunch of blow ins from afar! The actual Chinese locals don't mind, because they don't know what mixed climbing is. That is Barber's point. A bunch of blow ins from afar have shown up and said "this is how you rockclimb" then proceeded to rap in with a drill. Pretending that overbolted sportclimbing is a well established tradition of the local Chinese climbing culture is either naive or disingenuous.

nmonteith
25/05/2012
10:01:38 AM
Sometimes the negativity of some of you guys is astounding! How you can manage to have a shit time whilst climbing in Tonsai amazes me. You must be really trying hard not to enjoy yourself. I went there for the second time this last xmas holidays (15 year gap between visits!) - and had a great time. The first few days were frustrating dealing with crowds and the heat, but by then I had sussed out where and when to go to have a good time (hot tip, get up early and all the stoners are still asleep, siesta for several hours in the middle of the day, then start climbing again around 4pm when everyone else is buggered). As a family 'holiday' destination it shits all over China. Super convenient crags within walking distance of accommodation, beaches, snorkling, kayaking, easy to arrange transport, costs half to a third what a plane ticket to USA or Europe does, cheap & tasty food, safe. Yes it is hot, yes it can be crowed but so are many places just as famous if you go in the wrong time of year. Yosemite in summer holidays is a mega crowded and unpleasantly hot experience. Would you call Yosemite a shit climbing area?

rodw
25/05/2012
10:35:06 AM
On 25/05/2012 One Day Hero wrote:

> then it's probably in your interests for everything everywhere
>to get bolted to shit.

Ah no...I've got plenty of stuff to play on without trying to force my views down someone else's throat....which you seem not to be able to grasp.

I'm pretty sure the Chinese have there own identity and do not need you or Barber or anyone to champion their cause....last I checked they can read and not totally cut off from the world climbing media.
One Day Hero
25/05/2012
10:40:26 AM
Yes, I would call Yosemite in the middle of summer (when it's crowded to buggery and too hot to climb) a shit climbing area. I'd never jump on a plane to go to Yosemite in summer..........in fact, I had an offer to go and do the Nose last year with a good mate, and decided against it for those reasons (he went anyway, did the route, looked like a cooked lobster in the photos)

The good thing about most crags is that the crowds thin out as the weather gets good for climbing, not so in Thailand. I can see it as a family holiday spot, also for the young single climber...........I enjoyed my stay there when I was 24, the climbing was ok, there are about 50 other crags I'm more psyched to revisit.
One Day Hero
25/05/2012
10:58:36 AM
On 25/05/2012 rodw wrote:
>On 25/05/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>
>Ah no...I've got plenty of stuff to play on without trying to force my
>views down someone else's throat....which you seem not to be able to grasp.
>
Yeah, but you'll never complain about trad routes getting retroed because it seems to me that you don't ever climb on gear (maybe you don't know how?) Feel free to refute that unsubstantiated assumption any time you like.

>I'm pretty sure the Chinese have there own identity and do not need you
>or Barber or anyone to champion their cause....last I checked they can
>read and not totally cut off from the world climbing media.
>
Again, the Chinese climbers aren't making any decisions about anything. It's western blow ins who have made all the calls over there. A lot of the white guys bolting in China seem to have limited or no experience of developing crags in their own countries. Have you climbed in China?

rodw
25/05/2012
11:04:16 AM
Lol ODH.... how did you get from sport climbing in china to me supposed thoughts on retroing trad routes?

Linze
25/05/2012
11:44:41 AM
On 25/05/2012 nmonteith wrote:
. You must
>be really trying hard not to enjoy yourself.

i think that enjoying Tonsai would require me trying really hard to ignore some realities - the swathes of ego driven w@nkers that seem to land there and then bang on about their path to self discovery and the second rate infrastructure that has been set up to make them feel like they are in paradise (at the same time as trashing the environment - sewage being pumped straight into the jungle, piles of smahsed up asbestos sheeting, the pile of rusting nonsense left behind by the on cliff weddings, im sure you saw the piles of garbage either festering or being burnt, the obsene amounts of polystyrene piling up next to restaurants and people banging on about how bad it was yet still using it - awesome)...

i would love to love the place - the topograpy is pretty damn amazing - but just cant ignore that people's 'week in paradise' seems to be coming at a pretty high cost.

in the ten year gap between my first and last visit i could see that one snorkle site had gone from amazing to a wastland of dead coral.

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There are 52 messages in this topic.

 

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