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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 34
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Author
Frog advice

stugang
19/05/2012
8:53:59 PM
Hey all you chockstoners

there is a fair chance I'll have about a week of kiddy free leave gifted to me some time in the next couple of months. I've never been to Frog so thought it a perfect time to fill that gap in my Aussie climbing experience.

Problem is I've done sweet Fk all climbing recently, and I'm curious to know how fit I'll need to be to have a good 5 - 7 days there? If I get my shit together I reckon I could get back to being OK on low 20's in a couple of months....but if I don't get my shit together how fit/what grade would I need to be climbing to make the trip up north worth it?
hipdos
19/05/2012
9:41:03 PM
I've been twice (one day each time) and only led moderate routes (to gr18) but there seemed to be enough at that grade or less for a weeks worth of climbing. You could TR harder classics, although it is not the most straight forward place for TR access. But I'm no expert on the place. I can tell you it is amazing, the rock is great quality, the walk in is insignificant, there is a ridiculous amount of climbing given the size of the place and the routes are fantastic.
One Day Hero
19/05/2012
10:46:33 PM
On 19/05/2012 hipdos wrote:
>You could TR harder classics, although it is not the most straight
>forward place for TR access.

The locals really don't like people toproping, but if it was someone who used to be a good climber and has morphed into a fat has-been, they might be ok with it.

>But I'm no expert on the place........

No shit! Given the number of Frog locals who post on here, how much is your advice worth if you've only been there for 2 days?
One Day Hero
19/05/2012
10:49:54 PM
Hey Bomber, you softc--k! Get yourself up to 21/22 if you want to do a bunch of classics. No hard moves really, but long pitches and quite physical. If you do 5 big days in a row, you'll know you've been climbing. Can South Australians jam?

When are you going? I might head up for a week in July

Eduardo Slabofvic
19/05/2012
11:13:50 PM
You'll be fine Bummer. Just go for it like you always do. Start with "Life at the top" as a warm up and go from there.

stugang
20/05/2012
7:22:05 AM
Thanks hipdos - your comments are much more useful than ODL's and slobbrdick.

As for timing, not sure....that's part of the problem...I'm going to work on the assumption that it will be late july, and start planning for that. Problem it could be earlier in which case I may not be able to get off the ground on anything worthwhile so I may as well go freeze my nuts off at araps.

Anyway, how you describe it as "no hard moves" has sort of put me off....i mean are you talking just a whole bunch of V0 minuses stacked one on top of the other? If thats the case I might just go bouldering.
hipdos
20/05/2012
8:05:46 AM
On 19/05/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 19/05/2012 hipdos wrote:

>>But I'm no expert on the place........
>
>No shit!

Glad you agree. Got any decent advice, like why the locals don't like climbers toproping?

Doug
20/05/2012
9:27:14 AM
On 19/05/2012 bomber pro wrote:
>Hey all you chockstoners
>
>Problem is I've done sweet Fk all climbing recently, and I'm curious to
>know how fit I'll need to be to have a good 5 - 7 days there? If I get
>my shit together I reckon I could get back to being OK on low 20's in a
>couple of months....but if I don't get my shit together how fit/what grade
>would I need to be climbing to make the trip up north worth it?

It sounds to me like you have enough background and are savvy enough with placing gear to make it well worth your while flying to Frog for a week if you feel like you can get up 17's and 18's at the moment.
Your form will build quickly if you don't try to do too much the first couple of days. Routes like Blood Sweat and Tears, Elastic Rurp, Hollywood Rattlesnake, Gladiator, Resurrection Corner, Fluid/Epic Linkup and Iron Mandible will get you going. The quality really kicks in at 19 and you will soon be plotting your next trip if you like - or start getting a better handle on - jamming.
Two good tips for Frog: lots of cams but don't overlook the wires, and remember to set your cams as they can have a tendency to skid on the slicker surfaces.
Enjoy!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
20/05/2012
11:24:20 AM
On 19/05/2012 bomber pro wrote:
>Hey all you chockstoners
>
>there is a fair chance I'll have about a week of kiddy free leave gifted
>to me some time in the next couple of months. I've never been to Frog so
>thought it a perfect time to fill that gap in my Aussie climbing experience.
>
It surprises me that you have that gap.
>
>Problem is I've done sweet Fk all climbing recently, and I'm curious to
>know how fit I'll need to be to have a good 5 - 7 days there? If I get
>my shit together I reckon I could get back to being OK on low 20's in a
>couple of months....but if I don't get my shit together how fit/what grade
>would I need to be climbing to make the trip up north worth it?

Just do it!
You know you want to; and besides, the memorable routes are all in the struggle, no matter what grade they are.

If you want a soft touch for the grade, get on Borderline 29, a fun Mikl route, and stay with the arete all the way to the top. Parts of it will make you think you are back at the Moon...

The comment about not liking topropes there (I guess due not being a local), is likely due the fact that there is a vegetated loose scree band/area above many of the climbs, which lends itself to dislodging CRAP onto you and belayer, if messed with too much.

(Where is Phil Box when we need his advice?)
rightarmbad
20/05/2012
7:42:05 PM
Frog shines at all grades, you'll have a ball.
vonClimb
20/05/2012
8:40:32 PM
Yes the climbing at frog's is great, but a more pertinent question is can you jam?

If you can't and your just getting back into leading 17's and 18's, you will probably find the climbs pretty stiff.

Eduardo Slabofvic
20/05/2012
9:18:02 PM
At Bummers age, he'll be happy to have anything stiff

stugang
20/05/2012
9:37:13 PM
On 20/05/2012 Eduardo Slabofvic. wrote:
>At Bummers age, he'll be happy to have anything stiff

Slobberduck - are you offering to guide me, or offering to $5@@4k me?

Either way you've got my number - cos I need the money.

Anyway thanks for all you folk that gave helpful advice - reckon I'll give it a crack if this magical week comes off. I don't have much of a concern re the cracks and jamming as long as I get some fitness back (the routes are longer than 10m?)

IdratherbeclimbingM9
20/05/2012
9:46:29 PM
On 20/05/2012 bomber pro wrote:
>(the routes are longer than 10m?)

Many are close to 40m length...
~> That is what makes them physical enduro style routes, and is why it feels so great when you top out!
One Day Hero
20/05/2012
9:48:07 PM
On 20/05/2012 rightarmbad wrote:
>Frog shines at all grades, you'll have a ball.

Lets take that answer apart a bit and look to see if there's any retardation inside.........but first, I love the fact that a bunch of numptys are talking down to Bomber, it's really making my night because he asked them to :)

Anyway, back the the retard advice. I'm guessing Bomber isn't going to take his one week of freedom in the last decade, and fritter it away "checking out the crag for next time". Next time? There isn't going to be a fuching next time! The next time he earns a leave pass, he'll be more likely to go on a lawn bowls trip! This is his one shot at the title, everything Bomber will ever accomplish at Frog will be done in these 7 days. Assuming 1 rest/rain day, and I expect Bomber isn't the type to waste his week by faffing around and dawdling up 3 routes a day. So, lets say (an average of 8 pitches/day - a few harder things which will take 2 shots = 40 pitches) as a reasonable target for a successful week.

So, we'll need 40 classic pitches on the to do list..........and when we check to see how many GOOD routes there are up to and including 18, we see that there's 10-15, i.e. 2 days worth of climbing i.e. your retard advice of "everything at Frog is good, you can have a great week at gr17" is amazingly retarded!

Bomber, seriously, you need to smash a bunch of 19 to 21 (because things at Frog really start to get interesting in that grade bracket) and you'll also have to do about 10 routes in the 22-24 range (because they're balltearingly good, and you'll feel like a pussy if you go home without trying 'em)

I would guess that your tick list will look like;

10 warmups (13-18)
20 milage routes (19-21)
10 hardish (but onsightable) classics (22-24)

Get fit!
rightarmbad
21/05/2012
7:22:09 PM
The retard advice will probably be more spot on than yours.

He said he's not fit, he ain't gonna knock down 8 routes a day.
There's plenty of easy stuff to keep him busy for the first two days while he dials into the rock.

There is at least 18 x 18's that are worth doing.
There is at least 20 x 20's that are worth doing.

Ooh, I forgot all of those 19's.

It's crack climbing, good protection abounds.
No problem getting on some challenging stuff.

If he does get on something challenging, he may only do two routes, and get a huge buzz doing it.

Just got out there and enjoy the place like thousands have before him.
widewetandslippery
21/05/2012
7:28:27 PM
Use lard or butter. Garliic, chilli. Don't use no unmsaturated fat. Ie oils are for vegans. You can crumb them. Gut them. Frogs guts are bad
hipdos
21/05/2012
7:31:23 PM
On 21/05/2012 rightarmbad wrote:
>If he does get on something challenging, he may only do two routes, and
>get a huge buzz doing it.


Nooooooooooooooooo. Must do 40 routes 3 stars or better to make it a succesful trip. (You retard).
One Day Hero
21/05/2012
8:21:13 PM
Look, I'm just going to say this, cause people dance around it too much.

Crack climbing (like slab climbing) can get very boring and repetitive. I don't remember many "moves" from my 3 trips to Frog, a lot of the climbing blends into one big flurry of shuffling and plugging cams (Impulse is a stunning exception to that generalization).

The things which make Frog a great crag are the striking lines, and the way you can churn out a couple of hundred meters of climbing a day when you're psyched and in the zone. I wouldn't enjoy a week long trip if I wasn't fit enough to do a bunch of the good lines day after day.

I understand how people with lower standards might be happy manking around on a couple of one star routes per day (as they stare longingly at the mega routes which are out of reach). I don't think Stuey is the sort of bloke to be thrilled by half arsed faffing.

Eduardo Slabofvic
21/05/2012
8:35:59 PM
Bummer should try doing all the routes that have a reference to fruit in their name in a day, or every route that has the words "somewhat spoilt by a ledge at half height" in the route description in a day.

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There are 34 messages in this topic.

 

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