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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Author

Wiseman's Ferry

kieranl

29-Mar-2012
3:37:23 PM

Overheard on the train heading back to Nati : "I slept with my best friend's fiance. But, as I said to her, I done her a favour because he used to bash her."


arniearms

29-Mar-2012
4:23:05 PM

I can prob get a decent day in on the sat & mon.

Popran was fun the day I went out there. If ur stuck for partner take a crash pad as there is rock everywhere out there, but also access issues - parking, national prk, private prop. I think both deliverance and popran are on private prop with land owner permission.

On 29/03/2012 BundyBear wrote:
>Deliverance - Sounds good !
>
>Anyone around over easter weekend to check it out ?
>
>Thanks


arniearms

29-Mar-2012
4:36:02 PM

Are u taking ur boat? I think Deliverance is easier access from the water...

On 29/03/2012 BundyBear wrote:
>On 29/03/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>>Actual guide to Deliverance with topos
>>
>>http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=area&area_id=1423
>
>But how do I get there ?


BundyBear

29-Mar-2012
6:22:53 PM

Yep, will have boat


rodw

29-Mar-2012
7:57:40 PM

On 29/03/2012 nmonteith wrote:

>I think I've checked that cliff out as well. Major orange buttress only
>100m from the road. There is several bolted routes on it already (old carrots)
>up on the high left side and some FHs on some steeper things in the middle.
>Looks like some potential for scoopy routes. A bit of choss down low on
>some them. I don't think its private property - but hard to tell around
>there.
>
I think a different crag neil...ours was about 200m up a steep hill....mostly grey weather worn faces...no routes/bolts we could see..there is so much rock out there TBH


pmonks

30-Mar-2012
5:32:52 AM

On 29/03/2012 rodw wrote:
>On 29/03/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>
>>I think I've checked that cliff out as well. Major orange buttress only
>>100m from the road. There is several bolted routes on it already (old
>carrots)
>>up on the high left side and some FHs on some steeper things in the middle.
>>Looks like some potential for scoopy routes. A bit of choss down low
>on
>>some them. I don't think its private property - but hard to tell around
>>there.
>>
>I think a different crag neil...ours was about 200m up a steep hill....mostly
>grey weather worn faces...no routes/bolts we could see..there is so much
>rock out there TBH

FWIW probably put up by the (in)famous Wondabyne Climbing Club (Phil Stallard & friends) in the late 70s / early 80s. They explored a lot of the Hawkesbury by boat and put up routes on most of the obvious cliffs (including that classic roof crack at Eagle Rock - his story of aiding it drunk with one leg in a cast is hilarious!).

He did specifically mention a couple of cliffs around Spencer that had a lot of potential - they did put up some routes up there but he was very vague on details.

That's another guide I lost along with my notes - the WCC's 1979(?) guide to the Hawkesbury. At least I got the info out onto SSS first though...


Big G

30-Mar-2012
6:44:56 AM

On 29/03/2012 widewetandslippery wrote:
>Big G what a cultural insight. Did u swim in the pool?

God no! I did brave the 'bistro' though... never again


nmonteith

30-Mar-2012
8:48:32 AM

Deliverance is in the National Park but it is right on the border of private property. Access by boat would involve covert crossing of 500m of private property (grassy paddock). Not sure wher you would tie the boat up? I remember mangroves and a jetty next to the farm house.


arniearms

30-Mar-2012
9:03:04 PM

^ tnx for clearing that up, thought I'd read about boat access, but dosnt sound ideal. Mountain biking on fire trails sounds the easiest way to stay off the private property. Propran access is an easy short walk by comparison.

jrc

31-Mar-2012
12:10:21 AM

There are some crags over the river at WF itself (Wiseman's that is, not the McDonald Rd Ferry). We climbed there in the mid 1970s.

Probably about 300-400m R of the ferry, there is a cliffline with a prominent V corner, about grade 16. You won't need your drill. Climbed by me in (or about) Mar 76, so i'd say a set of hexes are the right gear.I think there was another crack line about 17 we climbed ont his crag too, but I remember the corner only. I will see if i can dig out a photo- i think we took some B/Ws.

There was also a crag we climbed on to the left of the ferry, also 76 i think. There was a face route about 15 which had some nice nut/hex protection in various horizontal breaks.


arniearms

31-Mar-2012
1:22:07 AM

On 29/03/2012 rodw wrote:
>Adrian and his mate were developing things out that way on other side
>of the river...give him a call for beta?

Didnt get alot done, but oogled at lots of cool stuff. Bolting epic stuff isnt my forte.

White Trash

4-Apr-2012
6:00:35 PM

i heard that the wolgan is better


arniearms

4-Apr-2012
10:36:13 PM

A lot of hawksbury sandstone is taipan-esque, big orange baked sandstone sloper feasts, often a bit too blank. But there are already great areas developed, and being around 1hr access from the northern districts of syd or central coast the potential is there for endess adventures. Can't comment on the wolgan as the only climbing I have done past the mtns is bouldering, but yeah whats not to love about tons of sandstone.

There are 33 messages in this topic.