Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop

Black Diamond: SET of 8 "C4" Cams and 8 matching wire gates. Sizes .3 .4 .5 .75 1 2 3 & 4 and 8 anodised "neutrino" - wire gate karabiners.   $625.00
20% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 5 of 8. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 145
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Arapiles (General) (General) (General) [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Author
New Arapiles Select Guide

Super Saiyan
9/05/2006
10:30:40 AM
Hey man

I did the 10 day Leaders Advanced Wilderness First Aid course last year. Best course i have even done. The instructors are awesome, you get to do 5 practical scenarios everyday, between instruction, culminating in a night exercise where everyone has differnent roles to play etc. They really get into the "reality" side of things too with fake blood, and "bits of bone" sticking out of legs and things too. Get dibs on being the victim for the "boar attack" eviscerated bowel- AWESOME!
gtempest
10/05/2006
9:25:40 AM
On 6/05/2006 Sabu wrote:
>Don't know if this has already be asked/answered but do you guys have a
>rough idea on when it'll be released or is that still way off into the
>future?!

The guide will be out in mid Spring. It would have been a bit earlier but Simey plays footy on Saturdays. Glenn.

The good Dr
10/05/2006
1:58:23 PM

>The guide will be out in mid Spring. It would have been a bit earlier
>but Simey plays footy on Saturdays. Glenn.

You forgot Footy training, Tuesday surfing, his commitment to his church group on Sunday, Choir on Wednesday nights and Friday mornings, Yoga on Monday and Tuesday from 7-10 followed by Pilates, home help for the soup van in Dimboola and being a role model (which requires considerable attention to preening - hairdressers once a week, nails, the tanning salon etc) ;)
jgoding
10/05/2006
10:52:27 PM
Ah but my good Doctor,

you haven't even started on Simon's art of seduction courses, or his own chasing chicks endevours.

These are both very time consuming matters.

Spring 2008 I say if you take this into account!!!

but seriously - good luck Glenn & Simey. Hope it goes easily for you both, and you get it out on time.
simey
11/05/2006
7:57:47 AM
On 10/05/2006 The good Dr wrote:
>You forgot Footy training, Tuesday surfing...

On 10/05/2006 jgoding wrote:
>you haven't even started on Simon's art of seduction courses, or his own chasing chicks endevours. These are both very time consuming matters.

That's right. There are quite a few distractions when living in Nati, all of which slow progress on the guide.

However having recently met the woman of my dreams, I won't be investing any more time chasing chicks.



kieranl
11/05/2006
9:52:32 PM
On 11/05/2006 simey wrote:
>However having recently met the woman of my dreams, I won't be investing
>any more time chasing chicks.
>
Congratulations!
But, back to the guide :

The wall in the Northern Group below Hurts etc has enough climbs to warrant a visit. These are great on sunny, cold days.

Generation Gap 42m 5
Very good climb. You could suggest that people do this and then follow up with Lone Pine corner.

The face with Evelyn and Lou on has a few good hard routes but you need to be climbing well at the grade for any of them.

Please Don't Talk to The Lifeguard 17
People have repeated this and told me that it's good but better protected than I suggested.

Maybe one of the Ambrose Bierce inspired climbs cloud be included if you have a few pages spare.

Manatee Fair 10?
Very good but requires largish cam (?3.5) to protect the crux.

Stone Age 16
Good. Exciting finish

Poles Apart 9
Nice Climb
simey
23/02/2007
9:15:47 AM
Okay scum suckers, listen up. The guidebook is ticking along slowly but surely, but as yet no one has put up their hand to apply V grades to boulder problems at Arapiles.

Given that neither Glenn or I are familiar with V grades (and that we are not that fussed about them anyway) we won't be making the effort to grade the problems ourselves. That means the bouldering section of the guide will simply be the same as before, or perhaps just be colour-coded as (easy - green), (moderate - blue), (difficult - black) to point people in the right direction.

If people want to have a go at applying V-grades to the boulders then you can pick up a photocopy of the bouldering section from our old guide (from my place in Nati) and scribble down grades next to the problems you are familiar with. Afterwards drop it off at my place, or mail it back to me.

If a few people do this I should be able to get a clearer idea regarding grades.

Let me know if anyone is keen to have a bash at this.


gordoste
23/02/2007
11:16:02 AM
Is Golden Streak V2 or V3???

phil_nev
23/02/2007
11:46:38 AM
Golden Streak is - V nails & slimey....
dalai
23/02/2007
12:13:19 PM
On 23/02/2007 gordoste wrote:
>Is Golden Streak V2 or V3???

I know Golden slime is now just that, but now V2/3 from at most V0+ ???

From the Big Book of Problems, a few suggested grades...

Golden Slime V0+
Animal Acts V1
Gonzo Gladiator V4
Attack a Helpless Chicken V6
L, S, or D V4
Two sections of Slea Stacks V9 (I thought this used to be V8?)
Heartstopper V4
simey
23/02/2007
12:20:08 PM
Thanks for that Dalai.

Anyone else care to add their two bob's worth?
dalai
23/02/2007
12:37:48 PM
I'd like to help with the grades, as Arapiles boulder problems deserve to be given ratings using a commonly used legitimate grading scale.

But given I haven't been up to Araps in over a decade and that I have enough trouble grading my own stuff closer to home... I don't think I would be much help or very accurate!

gordoste
23/02/2007
1:13:52 PM
On 23/02/2007 dalai wrote:
>On 23/02/2007 gordoste wrote:
>>Is Golden Streak V2 or V3???
>
>I know Golden slime is now just that, but now V2/3 from at most V0+ ???

It's listed at V2 on thecrag.com, and that felt about right for me. Josh Caple rated it V3 but I think it's on the tough side of V2. For me, V0 is where you don't really need any technique, but on Golden Streak you do for the first moves. I've only ever bouldered V4... perhaps it seemed very easy to you since you're climbing a bit harder?

Speaking of thecrag.com, a lot of problems are listed there and have V-grades, perhaps these are a good starting point?
dalai
23/02/2007
1:18:38 PM
On 23/02/2007 gordoste wrote:
>Josh Caple rated it V3 but I think it's on the tough side of V2.

Josh needs a couple of doses of Harden Up spray :-) V3!?

3 moves to glory to it's left is a lot harder than Golden Streak and wouldn't be more than V3 and perhaps V4 from the sit?

gordoste
23/02/2007
2:01:54 PM
Haven't done 3 moves to glory but it is rated V3 on thecrag.com

phil_nev
23/02/2007
2:05:07 PM
Golden streak would be at least V1 in the gramps
3 moves to glory would probably be around V4
Around the world - V4
Monkey Puzzle - V3
AAHC - Hard V6, maybe V7
dalai
23/02/2007
2:16:05 PM
On 23/02/2007 phil_nev wrote:
>Golden streak would be at least V1 in the gramps
>3 moves to glory would probably be around V4
>Around the world - V4
>Monkey Puzzle - V3
>AAHC - Hard V6, maybe V7

Soft cave climbers... ;-)

AAHC has one trickier move near the start which is pretty easy with the right foot beta - I thought V6 was being generous...

MrKyle
23/02/2007
2:52:57 PM
Simon, the use the "add 21 rule" if you are in doubt. That is, add 21 to the bouldering grade to compare it with a route grade. Example, a V5 would be about the hardest move you would find on a 26 (albeit a very short and intense one).
The classic example is Sperm Bitches - a great V10 boulder problem or a poxy 30/31 route (So Saxon and James say).

AAHC should be easy to grade like this because it is almost as long a short route. Is it as hard as a 28? Nope. Is it as hard as 27? Maybe an easy one, but more like a 26. So, let's call it solid V5.

Based on that reasoning:
3 Moves V4 (cruxy 25)
Golden Streak V2 (cruxy 23)
simey
23/02/2007
10:44:50 PM
Thanks Kyle.
Your "add 21conversion" seems pretty logical and your examples make sense to me.

I've always thought Golden Streak at V0 or V1 seemed a bit too brutal, so V2 sits more comfortably with me. As for 'Attack A Helpless Chicken'... well I never did it and yet I've climbed quite a few 26s, so I would probably opt for the V6 rating, although it is obviously borderline.

Welcome more feedback, particularly with the harder problems.

d.lodge
23/02/2007
10:46:29 PM
mr kyle has got it about right with those and that system of conversion i find it seems to be relativley accurate

 Page 5 of 8. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 145
There are 145 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints