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VIC Arapiles Central Gully Right (General) Dunes Buttress [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ]

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Saracen

kieranl

21-Feb-2012
4:58:38 PM

There's a note on The Crag from a recent ascent of Saracen claiming that the top pitch is "dangerous in last crack". Been years since I was up there but I remember it as just being a wander up into the top of Dunes. Anyone have any idea what the issue is?

Mike Bee

22-Feb-2012
11:26:36 AM

I did it a couple of weeks ago, the only thing that I could see as being dangerous on the last pitch is the dicky mantle/bridge move to gain the corner. It's a bit awkward and there's a ledge at your feet. If you fell, you hit the ledge well before the rope took.

That doesn't sound like a "large crack" though. I don't remember a large crack in the top pitch.

kieranl

22-Feb-2012
11:57:17 AM

Should have been "last" crack not "large" crack. I blame auto-complete. Have fixed up first post.
Maybe they wandered into something grungy that most people avoid.

Sabu

22-Feb-2012
12:19:25 PM

The only thing I can think of is that the last section on most of the climbs on Dunes have that massive ledge which you are more than likely to hit if you come off. Gear won't help much because the pitches are quite long so you're still likely to hit it with rope stretch.

There are 4 messages in this topic.