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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 75
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Arapiles (General) (General) (General) [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Author
Good (safe) 24s at Arapiles

nmonteith
2/11/2011
11:46:33 PM
I'm making my long awaited return this weekend! Flicking through 15 years of ticks in my guidebook i realize I seem to have skipped the 24 grade almost altogether. Can anyone suggest good routes at that grade which aren't death on a stick? I enjoy long and pumpy rather than short and crimpy if that's any help. If I don't find something worthwhile I'll have to go back to my old decade long nemesis Henry Bolte.
Wendy
3/11/2011
8:04:07 AM
There's nothing unsafe about Paladin. You might possibly find it desperate though.

Cruel Britania. Pumpy to place gear at the start (take a selection of green-red alien sized stuff), but definately safe. Possibly also the easiest 24 at the Mt.

Dreadnought. It will actually be warm this weekend. Maybe you should just camp out here and do No exit as well as everything else I seem to think of is in the sun.

Horroscope. Also vying for easiest 24 rating.

Maybe Astral Plane? Haven't done it for years, but seems to get a bit of attention.

Skyline Walls has a great selection of stuff from 22-27 that I shouldn't be giving away in a public forum, because at the moment, no one bar locals seem to know it exists.

There's nothing particularly long about any of those, but it is araps. Not much is really long.

baz74
3/11/2011
8:12:33 AM
Nose Job. Safe (bomber 4 and 5 nuts) in the shade and even has a lower-off so both you and the belayer can lead it.
widewetandslippery
3/11/2011
8:12:52 AM
Warmonger, look sharp, the 24 varient on yesterday
Wendy
3/11/2011
8:27:47 AM
Wow, some people have different ideas of safe to me ...

Nose job has 1 good nut in it. Then there's all the hard stuff with desperate to place gear that's not at all obvious. Ok if you preplace. And it's only in the shade early, with your belayer in sufference even earlier. And all of that's assuming that you start up Coming on Chris, not the actual start of the route further left.

I'd almost guess WWS is sandbagging except he didn't suggest Open Season, Common Knowledge or Breezin. Warmonger is reliant on a collection of ancient pitons at the start, then all the gear, whilst potentially good, is in the rather crucial finger locks. And would be desperate to place. I have the utmost respect for Lou's onsight of it in the 80s.

That's fantastic (the variant on yesterday) is well protected down low, certainly comes as close to fullfilling the request for long and pumpy as Araps could, but you'd take a massive whipper if you came off the finish. It was one of those nervous belaying moments. I'm glad Rob didn't plummet on me.

nmonteith
3/11/2011
8:40:06 AM
Thanks Wendy, I don't think I've done any of those. Not sure I should be thanking the other sandbaggers... :-)

Sabu
3/11/2011
9:11:45 AM
Horroscope is fun, i've seconded it and from memory the gear is all there where needed.
kieranl
3/11/2011
9:24:26 AM
Blue Eyed and Blond fits the bill I think and in the shade.
Look Sharp is OK but short and crimpy.
Family Feud, good but a bit runout on the easier moves at the top.

Sonic
3/11/2011
9:30:18 AM
Ill say horrorscope is good too. The gear is good, lower offs, close to camp, good warm ups nearby - all the ingredients are there and I think it is a great route - if a little soft for 24
Wendy
3/11/2011
9:45:04 AM
Maybe you could check out Aftermath for me? It looks awesome - and certainly qualifies as long (ish) and pumpy. I have heard conflicting reports on the gear - Damo thought the gear at the start was cruddy, but Simey reckons it's fine. I rapped over it after doing Trinity Wall recently and it looks like it could be ok, but maybe take a moment to sort out. Damo could have been on the start of Atlantis, which is supposed to be scary. With the sun high in the sky, it should be in the shade all day by now. If not, it will become so a bit earlier than most because of the buttress on the west of that ledge. I have also heard rumours that Simey regrets downgrading it to 24.

And have you done Kama Sutra? It's got tons of gear, esp if you take a 4 camalot for the top crack, although there's other gear deeper in or lower down, and people tend to think it's way harder than 23 anyway. It'll have any breeze going, keeping the temperature down and it's mindblowingly good. I can give you the beta that reduces it to 23ish if you want it.

pmonks
3/11/2011
10:23:41 AM
Dynamic on Castle Crag? WM led it after a single lap on top-rope and from memory the gear was better than it looked from the ground. I should also say that my Z-pulley assisted top-rope ascent was one of the finest The Arapiles has seen in many years...

Robb
3/11/2011
10:26:22 AM
aftermath is great. was 25 in old guide,

nmonteith
3/11/2011
11:24:06 AM
Kama Sutra and Station to Station are two routes i've always wanted to do up there. I'll bring the big cams - i love a good thrashing. Aftermath certainly looks pretty fun when i traversed past on Trinity Wall. That's certainly my style but its a bit of an effort to get up there and then retreat if i get scared - anyone else done it?
spicelab
3/11/2011
11:36:35 AM
Astral Plane is safe, worthwhile but nothing outstanding.

Paladin is awesome but absolutely desperate. Felt like about 28 to me. Completely gobsmacked that Peter Croft soloed it back in the day.
Wendy
3/11/2011
3:43:58 PM
I'm gobsmacked by many things Peter Croft soloed. Almost as gobsmacked as by many things Alex Honnold solos. Paralax at Buffalo has a really sketchy exit, and Peter downclimbed the whole route on his first attempt (onsight) because he didn't feel confident, then gave it a second run. That's an awesome 24 too, but it's a little far away.

Dynamic is a piece of mank, Peter! I think it's had some bolts bunged in it these days, but that doesn't make nondescript climbing climb any better.
widewetandslippery
3/11/2011
3:55:37 PM
What's the name of the rote you can link astral plane into to make a good long pitch
simey
3/11/2011
4:41:03 PM
On 3/11/2011 Wendy wrote:
>Maybe you could check out Aftermath for me? It looks awesome - and certainly
>qualifies as long (ish) and pumpy. I have heard conflicting reports on
>the gear - Damo thought the gear at the start was cruddy, but Simey reckons
>it's fine.

There is good gear in Aftermath, but it can be a bit funky to place. As for grading it 24, well it certainly is not a difficult as its neighbour (Dead Americans) which is also 25.
prb
3/11/2011
4:53:30 PM
See you there nmonteith, it should be drier than when we were chatting at Wave Wall in March. My friends are planning to siege Kachoong - if a solid 23 is as good as an easy 24 there's always In Phase! Dead Americans might be my favourite Arapiles climb name.

gnaguts
3/11/2011
5:25:00 PM
Redrum wind song wall nuff said.
Olbert
3/11/2011
7:37:33 PM
What about Female Friends - I never did it but Dave managed to onsight it without whimpering or crying. There's a head cam video of him doing it on YouTube and on the vids thread. I didn't second it because I was relagated to belay duty with a bung elbow

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There are 75 messages in this topic.

 

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