Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop

DMM: DMM ALLOY "Offset" have arrived!!! #Sizes 7 - 11. (5 piece) Range: 12 to 23.5mm. (Great Compliment to DMM Wallnuts. (Refer Peenuts for Profile) Awesome Pro!  $93.00
15% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 49
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians (General) (General) (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ] 

Author
Vic Range - Weirs Creek
kieranl
Online Now
16/09/2011
9:04:11 AM
If anyone's interested in a sneak preview of the new area in the Vic Range that we've been working on give me a PM. Going there tomorrow to tidy up a couple of things and for Alex to try a route.
Main area is sport, currently 5 routes 16-21, 1 bolted project, about 24. Most climbs abou 20-25m in length with climbing on big pockets on steep rock. There's also the odd obligatory slab move.
There is other potential in the area for those interested in looking.
Walk-in is fairly casual 30 minutes.
Descriptions will be published after this weekend but if you're up for a guided tour tomorrow get in touch.
ademmert
19/09/2011
1:14:59 PM
Hey Kieran,
how was the weekend? when is the unveiling??
looking forward to seeing it!
kieranl
Online Now
19/09/2011
4:54:22 PM
Just getting some photos sorted. Should have that done by Wednesday and then I'll unlock the ACA site. Alex flashed his project so grade range is now 16-23.
I'm probably going back in again next Saturday if anyone's interested.

nmonteith
19/09/2011
4:58:43 PM
Amazing looking pockets.
kieranl
Online Now
19/09/2011
9:31:24 PM
OK, it's now open on ACA.
Weirs Creek. That's the name of the creek on the map.

Because it's close to a pristine creek, a trowel has been stashed at the cliff to assist in the safe burial of faeces. Please try and go before you come, so to speak. But, if the need arises, go well away from the climbing area and further away from the creek and dig a decent hole.
robertsonja
20/09/2011
10:40:02 AM
Good work guys! I have always thought that Victoria Ranges needed some more sport routes, otherwise it is hardly worth visiting right?

Widow Of Opportunity 25m 17 with 10 bolts and a 20m route with 9 bolts - I may just have to buy some more of those quick draw things from my local climbing gym.

nmonteith
20/09/2011
11:04:46 AM
Hey what happened to your post davidn?

Anyway - routes look great Kieran! I look forward to giving them a go soon. Thanks for all your hard work equipping them and making a track. The rock looks very similar (but bigger) version of the nearby Wild Iris wall at Gondwannaland. Super amazing pockets - usually quite hard to find a nice flat bit of rock to place the bolts.
kieranl
Online Now
20/09/2011
11:19:39 AM
On 20/09/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>Hey what happened to your post davidn?
>
>...Super amazing pockets - usually quite hard to find
>a nice flat bit of rock to place the bolts.
Yes, at least one had to be placed inside a pocket - lucky it's a big one ;)
Bolt runners are all 12mm flush-head SS dynabolts. This is mainly because I'm a gumby with glue-ins but also because of the saturated lower band of rock. These bolts are easily removed and holes reused if/when someone decides glue-ins are needed.
Some of the hangers are spray-painted a rusty red, they're not actually rusting
pharmamatt
20/09/2011
1:07:04 PM
On 20/09/2011 robertsonja wrote:
>Good work guys! I have always thought that Victoria Ranges needed some
>more sport routes,
I agree!

>otherwise it is hardly worth visiting right?

>Widow Of Opportunity 25m 17 with 10 bolts and a 20m route with 9 bolts
>- I may just have to buy some more of those quick draw things from my local
>climbing gym.

11-12 quickdraws isn't alot, have you considered partnering up with someone who has gear as well?

hope this helps.
kieranl
Online Now
20/09/2011
2:05:29 PM
Never Fear - there are options for people who don't want to clip bolts


phil_nev
20/09/2011
2:19:21 PM
edit. Perhaps a little harsh.

On 20/09/2011 robertsonja wrote:
>Good work guys! I have always thought that Victoria Ranges needed some
>more sport routes, otherwise it is hardly worth visiting right?
>
>Widow Of Opportunity 25m 17 with 10 bolts and a 20m route with 9 bolts
>- I may just have to buy some more of those quick draw things from my local
>climbing gym.

In case you hadn't been told for a while (unlikely), You are a "silly person"
kieranl
Online Now
20/09/2011
2:31:44 PM
There's a reasonable crack beside the first 3 bolts. Most of the other routes have a couple of spots that would take good gear without too much faffing about but it just becomes silly. You either have to provide a gear list or expect people to carry a rack. My rule of thumb was that if it was going to be more than 2/3 bolted then it would be a sport route. The pocketed wall routes are all in that class except maybe for the project on the lefthand end but noone's going to carry a rack for one short route.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
Online Now
20/09/2011
2:44:19 PM
On 20/09/2011 kieranl wrote:
>except maybe for the project on the lefthand end but noone's going to carry a rack for one short route.
>
?
Yet they will carry a rope and rack of draws?

Luxury! Why when I were a lad we-
kieranl
Online Now
20/09/2011
8:16:26 PM

Here's something that hasn't been climbed on yet, The Elephant Seal Boulder. Shoot me for anthropomorphising but I couldn't avoid this name. The pack gives some idea of the scale.
One Day Hero
20/09/2011
9:36:01 PM
On 20/09/2011 robertsonja wrote:
>Good work guys! I have always thought that Victoria Ranges needed some
>more sport routes, otherwise it is hardly worth visiting right?
>
Is there any good climbing in the Vic ranges that isn't bolted to a certain degree? The only awesome, bolt-free route I've done is Return to Gariwerd. Mother of God looks like the best route in the grampians, but its way above my salary bracket........I guess Welcome to Barbados is in the same catagory, but the fact that it needs a fixed pin makes its bolt-free status seem a little contrived.......and I spose there's Passport (but I have ethical objections to a route which is 3 grades easier for chicks than for blokes)

Anyway, my point is that apart from those 4 mega-lines, the good routes in the Vic Ranges are sport or mixed climbing. Most of the pure trad climbing down there looks like grunder. The photos Kieran posted up don't look like total grunder, and if I was in the market for easy sport routes in Victoria I'd go and check it out. It looks like a nice crag.
One Day Hero
20/09/2011
11:15:48 PM
On 20/09/2011 kieranl wrote:
>Shoot me for anthropomorphising but I couldn't avoid this name.

Don't you mean Pinnipedpomorphising?
kieranl
Online Now
21/09/2011
8:55:13 AM
Actually I'm probably zoomorphising the rock. But let's not get too picky. Ascribing animal shapes to rocks is always tacky.

ajfclark
21/09/2011
10:31:37 AM
On 20/09/2011 kieranl wrote:
>The pack gives some idea of the scale.

Where's the pack? Is it the blurry thing in the bottom left?

..::- Chris -::..
21/09/2011
10:45:10 AM
Looks really nice Kieran, Jodes and I will be out to check it sometime soon....

Thanks for your time and hard work putting em up!

Cheers
Chris.
ademmert
21/09/2011
11:37:41 AM
Awesome work Guys! Looks cool!

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 49
There are 49 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints