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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Northwest Black Hill (General) (General) [ Black Hill Guide | Images ] 

Author
Greenpiece (22)
gfdonc
1/03/2006
11:41:59 AM
This goes up the left wall of the Milawa buttress as described in the guide.

Route has 5 stainless carrots not 3 as described. Hence pro is fairly good. Couldn't see the extra bolts from the ground but they were certainly welcome and well placed. The last one may be hard to spot, personally I didn't see it and kept going. It's on your left as the angle eases, probably protects the last hard move.
A soft tick for the grade IMHO if you can make your feet stick.

(BA - I'll PM this to you to make sure you get it.)
JamieF
1/03/2006
3:55:47 PM
How far right of Greenpiece is the top third of Rough Diamond (18)? Is it close enough to have strayed onto it? It has five nicely spaced bolts from memory.
gfdonc
1/03/2006
4:43:54 PM
On 1/03/2006 JamieF wrote:
>How far right of Greenpiece is the top third of Rough Diamond (18)?

By an amazing confluence of coincidence I have my NW Vic guide here at work and can check .. ah I see .. hmm you may be right, which would help to explain the easy tick but makes the top move or two of GP a waste of time IMHO. My route went pretty much straight up from the pocket and first 2 bolts on GP, there was a broken flake further left that was not far out of reach but did not look appealing .. or should I claim the new route?
dalai
1/03/2006
4:46:44 PM
Green Diamond?
gfdonc
1/03/2006
5:17:46 PM
Perfect, thanks Dalai. Job done, write it up.

sticky
1/03/2006
6:07:28 PM
" confluence of coincidence"

I like that phrase. Thanks. (um, carry on!)
gfdonc
2/03/2006
2:25:35 PM
Should have copyrighted it!

Just a further note on the route - on sussing this from the ground it wasn't apparent where to go from the second bolt but I pretty much stayed in the line.
When I got above the second bolt I stepped up and was surprised to find a third bolt in front of my waist. I may have stepped right ever so slightly but not enough to think I was changing routes!! i.e. about a body's width. Besides the bolt was on my left side if at all off-centre, not further right. In other words if the top two bolts belong to Rough Diamond then the route description needs to point out that the two climbs meet 2/3 of the way up, or just scrap the original exit to Greenpiece.
Love to hear from the first ascensionists to qualify, and from any other parties who've done GP.
- Steve
robin
2/03/2006
10:23:46 PM
On 1/03/2006 gfdonc wrote:
>This goes up the left wall of the Milawa buttress as described in the guide.
>
>Route has 5 stainless carrots not 3 as described.
My copy of the guide says up to bolt....and left past another bolt. That makes 2 bolts. Greenpiece is 4 or 5 meters up the gully left of Rough Diamond. IMHO it's not worth a star. I always thought the route was a bit suspect. A couple of worthwhile moves but too short and squeezed in.
>A soft tick for the grade IMHO if you can make your feet stick.
Maybe, but we found the start tough and bouldery. Perhaps you were on Rough Diamond (5 bolts - grade 18)
>
>(BA - I'll PM this to you to make sure you get it.)
gfdonc
3/03/2006
10:53:06 AM
On 2/03/2006 robin wrote:
>>A soft tick for the grade IMHO if you can make your feet stick.
>Maybe, but we found the start tough and bouldery. Perhaps you were on
>Rough Diamond (5 bolts - grade 18)

Don't think so, as its route description implies you clip the first bolt on Milawa and head straight up. The route we did had a separate start and two carrots visible from the bottom.
Will have another look next time.

Rupert
3/03/2006
8:41:42 PM
Perhaps this old image will help the discussion?

http://www.chockstone.org/BlackHill/Milawa2l.JPG
gfdonc
5/03/2006
2:53:50 PM
Nice cross-reference! We went up approximately behind the tree trunk, or perhaps just slightly to its right.
robin
5/03/2006
5:16:06 PM
Rough Diamond starts about 1m left of the climber in picture and heads left of the small triangular roof (up a groove). Greenpiece is out of picture up the gully.
gfdonc
5/03/2006
10:18:53 PM
We went up, well left of the roof. I recall seeing separate bolts heading up from the first bolt on Milawa:
Rough Diamond 23m 18
As for Milawa, then straight up groove.
Greenpiece 12m 22
Start in gully up left of Rough Diamond. Up to BR, then up and right to pocket. Up and left past another BR to top.

We didn't go straight up from Milawa but started on its left, using a separate first (and second) bolt. If this was RD then the route description needs revising. Also note GP says "up and right". Found the pocket OK (mono) which seemed to confirm we were on route.
Nagging doubts: wasn't 22, and longer than 12m I think.

gfdonc
7/03/2006
4:54:53 PM
OK, thanks Robin for the PM, in summary I now believe we did Rough Diamond not Greenpiece but the guide description is wrong.
Instead of "As for Milawa" it should say "Start 2m left of Milawa, up the gully."
I expect it is possible to climb "as for Milawa, then straight up" as written but assume this isn't written up as a route.

There are 14 messages in this topic.

 

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