Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop

Austrialpin: OVALO Straight Gate. Strength: 25 10 8kN (Heavy Duty) N/B Perfect for Racking wired Nuts? IMO   $12.00
45% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Eastern Mt Pilot (General) (General) [ Mt Pilot Guide | Images ] 

Author
Mt Pilot
skegly
29/06/2011
11:01:00 PM
My son and I went out to check out Mt Pilot which was cool but a question, black stump East or West from the fire tower. My 2 guides seem to differ??
bl@ke
30/06/2011
12:49:27 AM
Hook a left at the fire tower to get to The Bakery Wall and others or go straight at the tower to fall over yedonba wall or go right to hit the other one. Falcon wall or something?

Paulie
30/06/2011
7:03:22 AM
The link to the image below should help out a bit. The guide really needs to be rewritten as it was done before the advent of GIS systems and since the fire there are many black stumps

http://i53.tinypic.com/jb1qp4.jpg

Miguel75
30/06/2011
9:24:37 AM
On 30/06/2011 Paulie wrote:
>The guide really needs to be rewritten as it was done before the advent of GIS systems and since
>the fire there are many black stumps
>
>http://i53.tinypic.com/jb1qp4.jpg

I too tried looking for that one special black stump in a sea of black stumps... An update to the guide might be good.

skegly
1/07/2011
11:57:55 AM
I am wondering if Mt Pilot is the spot over Mt Stanley?

gordoste
1/07/2011
1:40:36 PM
You can blame Paulie for that, originally it said E but it should be W (as Blake said, take a left when you hit the fire tower).
When heading west you'll walk off the rock dome and into the trees. Keep going straight across (or slightly uphill - the important thing is not to go downhill). Once you reach an open granite slab, walk diagonally up and across it until you get to where the ground is flat. From there you should be able to find the path to Bakery wall, it continues west through more trees, then drops down and right to the top of the cliff.

gordoste
1/07/2011
1:41:50 PM
On 1/07/2011 skegly wrote:
>I am wondering if Mt Pilot is the spot over Mt Stanley?

Mt Pilot is better due to the length of the climbs. Mt Stanley has a handful of nice climbs but they are all 10m or less.
skegly
1/07/2011
2:24:03 PM
cheers
Jimi
1/07/2011
6:22:21 PM
Does anyone have GPS coordinates for the walls or starts of climbs?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
1/07/2011
8:35:25 PM
You only need to go once with someone who is familiar with the area, to get it dialled.

Put up a post of dates you are available to climb there, and you will likely get other locals interested. ~> I have some projects that I want to do there...
... or pick the right day and turn up (as I have done for soloing), and you can trip over as many as a half dozen other teams there without organising it!


Paulie
2/07/2011
7:38:48 PM
On 1/07/2011 Jimi wrote:
>Does anyone have GPS coordinates for the walls or starts of climbs?

Fair dinkum mate, where's your sense of adventure, bloody electronics are ruining the sport of getting lost looking for routes! The place is quite small and everything is very easy to find if you use your inbuilt compass :-)

Paulie
2/07/2011
7:41:27 PM
BTW, I'm back in Wodonga this coming weekend (8th) and can drive out to show anybody who wants to know where the walls are located. If someone wants to bring a GPS they can log their path and point for the walls, then maybe create a new locality map for the area.

Miguel75
2/07/2011
8:12:05 PM
On 2/07/2011 Paulie wrote:
>....where's your sense of adventure, bloody electronics
>are ruining the sport of getting lost looking for routes!

I agree, I couldn't figure out the directions in the guide, too many darn stumps, so ended up hiking around for a few hours, eventually finding all the areas. For me, half the fun is just wandering around spying doable climbs without knowing exactly what they are. I really want to climb that crack that goes through a large bulge in the Yeddonba wall as it looked pretty fun.
skegly
2/07/2011
9:17:59 PM
Just got back from a bit of fun out there. Hung out at bakery wall with a great walk in from the car park which was beautiful and we managed to find it ok with a bit of inner compass and outer gps back up. I will post some pics soon.

Paulie
3/07/2011
8:50:35 PM
On 2/07/2011 Miguel75 wrote:
>I really want to climb that crack that goes through a large bulge in the Yeddonba wall >as it looked pretty fun.

The one that starts to the left of the horizontal ledge (19), or the 1st short prominent one as you walk around and down? If it's the former, then it'll prob need some brushing at the top I reckon (if it hasn't been climbed for a while). With a bit of pre-cleaning (soft brush) all those crack routes are great fun and fairly well protected.

Paulie
3/07/2011
8:51:15 PM
On 2/07/2011 skegly wrote:
>Just got back from a bit of fun out there. Hung out at bakery wall with
>a great walk in from the car park which was beautiful and we managed to
>find it ok with a bit of inner compass and outer gps back up. I will post
>some pics soon.

Great, do a trip report mate, I'm keen to see it!

Miguel75
3/07/2011
9:19:56 PM
On 3/07/2011 Paulie wrote:
>The one that starts to the left of the horizontal ledge (19), or the 1st
>short prominent one as you walk around and down? If it's the former, then
>it'll prob need some brushing at the top I reckon (if it hasn't been climbed
>for a while). With a bit of pre-cleaning (soft brush) all those crack
>routes are great fun and fairly well protected.

I'll likely be up there around Christmas time again. I'll drop you a line when I get up there. Paulie, have you done any climbing around Holbrook, NSW? There looked to be some pretty fun rock around...

Paulie
4/07/2011
8:25:03 PM
On 3/07/2011 Miguel75 wrote:
>Paulie, have you done any climbing around Holbrook, NSW? There looked to >be some pretty fun rock around...

Yep, the crag is in the Eastern Vic guide. It's great rock up there, very hard granite that features steep walls, strong lines and cool features like bulges and stepped walls. Currently the climbing is all reasonably well protected trad, but there are also some fantastic looking lines to be bolted on the overhanging walls on great solid rock with mainly slopers and crimps, the lines I toproped were hard but "doable in a day" type grades (24+) if you're climbing well. Most routes are around 10-15 metres long. The walk in is steep but pleasant. Great for a still winter's day as the aspect is NW - W (from memory) and above the tree line.

Miguel75
4/07/2011
8:45:13 PM
Cheers Paulie. There was plenty of rock and it looked super fun.
skegly
4/07/2011
10:49:41 PM
Myself and Jimi both have sick kids at the moment so the day was short but I will be back.
For a winters day it was rather nice climbing with just a singlet. I will do a report soon with some sweet pics ( once I suss adding pics). We only climbed 2 lines on the one block, embarrassing I know. So not to much to report other than very different Granite than Mt Alexander and pretty awesome bush post fire. Keen to suss out more of Mt Pilot!

There are 20 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints