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Crag & Route Beta

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All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Author

chip filling at the egg

Linze

16-May-2011
10:06:19 AM

Does anyone know anything about the little piles of glue, dust and stones that have appeared where holds once were on a few routes at the egg?? Must have happened in the last 6 months or so? Was it the first ascensionists changing their minds about past actions or someone taking matters into their own hands??

for what it is worth, filling the chip on the 24ish thing in the middle of the wall has resulted in a pretty cool punchy move... cant comment on the 'new' moves on the floating line - drilled undercling pocket thing is gone - as i don’t have a chance without that hold. the smallish edge in the middle of this route has become really sandy and crumbly, making me wonder if something has happened here too...

I’m really gutted about the floating line being ‘repaired’ - I liked the moves and route before, even if it was chipped.

Pommy

16-May-2011
11:16:49 AM

I broke the middle hold off from The Floating Line, where the smaller, sandy edge is now.
It was kind of green behind it, so it was never really that well held on.

As for filling in the chip at the top, the damage is already done, why not just ignore it and climb past it?
People must have some real ego problems if they feel the need to march all the way out there and patch up a small chip

spicelab

16-May-2011
11:29:23 AM

You don't mean the wafer-ish right hand crimp a couple of moves past the sloper?

Wasn't it glued up already?

As for the last undercling, I can remember thinking that you could probably pinch something on the roof feature, but it would have been pretty ugly.

Pommy

16-May-2011
12:27:14 PM

It was the first small hold after the halfway ledge, you could go straight from it to the sloper, now it would be much harder and seems easier to gaston out to the right

Linze

16-May-2011
12:59:42 PM

On 16/05/2011 Pommy wrote:
>It was the first small hold after the halfway ledge, you could go straight
>from it to the sloper, now it would be much harder and seems easier to
>gaston out to the right

and even more so given that the left had end (better bit) of it turned into dust and rained on my belayer when i stood on it. guess it was only a matter of time given how much of that mouldy green stuff is (was) behind it

Linze

16-May-2011
1:10:33 PM

On 16/05/2011 Pommy wrote:
>
>As for filling in the chip at the top, the damage is already done, why
>not just ignore it and climb past it?
>People must have some real ego problems if they feel the need to march
>all the way out there and patch up a small chip
>
agreed.

i cant remember the moves at the top, but was there a slot up and left after the drilled undercling before you went to the last pocket up and right? if so, that is now also filled, if there was no hold there, i am not sure why there is now a big patch of grey glue smeared there ( there are now a few grey smears on the wall that i cant remember being there before??, maybe they cover old coach bolt holes??) ... if these actions ares an attempt to undo 'vandalism', i hope it is a work in progress, becasue it is more conspicuous than any of the chipping ever was.

Linze

16-May-2011
1:13:20 PM

On 16/05/2011 spicelab wrote:
>You don't mean the wafer-ish right hand crimp a couple of moves past the
>sloper?
>
>Wasn't it glued up already?
>

'spicelab', is there any aspect of any hold, on any route, anywhere, that you cant remember??

spicelab

16-May-2011
2:41:41 PM

Maybe on a few granite slabs.

If only remembering sequences was all it took to climb hard..


tnd

16-May-2011
2:49:41 PM

Poxy chipped high-grade sport routes and the argument that they should exist are a product of our modern culture of entitlement.

"Oh the injustice of having to actually endure hard work in order to gain access to an area of human experience. It's not fair you elitist pricks! It's my right goddammit!".

F8cking pathetic.

spicelab

16-May-2011
3:17:04 PM

Well come on then, out with it.

No need to hide behind a slippery, indirect response to something that's clearly pissed you off.


nmonteith

16-May-2011
3:23:22 PM

You're being a hypocrite.

spicelab

16-May-2011
3:29:17 PM

On 16/05/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>You're being a hypocrite.

I'm quite aware that this was the implication from someone unable or unwilling to recognise irony.

As tnd is far from an idiot, I'm betting it was the latter. Which is why I asked him to clarify what his beef is. And preferably in the appropriate thread.

Do you seriously think I was suggesting that climbing is about as enjoyable as memorising the first 10,000 digits of Pi?


nmonteith

16-May-2011
4:08:05 PM

It's just odd that you obviously enjoy heavily manufactured glued and chipped sport routes on questionable rock - but seem very anti this style of climbing when the grades are lower.

spicelab

16-May-2011
5:00:34 PM

Obviously enjoy?? All you could have reasonably concluded is that I have climbed on one of them.

I actually don't endorse chipping/manufacturing, and try to avoid climbing manufactured routes as much as possible. However I realise how impossibly grey and confused the issue becomes when you look at it from a route cleaning/preparation perspective.

More significantly and from a pragamatic perspective, I recognise how impotent the act of refusing to climb them is.

You've got me nailed on one front - I'm even more strongly opposed to heavily manufactured low-grade sport routes! Although I've gotta admit such routes would be a sight to behold - chipped incut jugs between dinner plates.


nmonteith

16-May-2011
5:14:14 PM

On 16/05/2011 spicelab wrote:
>Obviously enjoy? All you could have reasonably concluded is that I have
>climbed on one of them.

Well, if you know the details of each and every hold you must have spent more than a quick lap on the thing! :-)

>I actually don't endorse chipping manufacturing, and try to avoid climbing
>manufactured routes as much as possible. However I realise how impossibly
>grey and confused the issue becomes when you look at it from a route cleaning preparation
>perspective.

Especially in the Blue Mtns! When you have to trundle kilos and kilos of loose rock, drill holes to install threaded rod to hold on the rest of the holds and then drill all the protection bolts... the act of chipping seems quite minor really. Half of the hard routes are selectively cleaned and prepped in this fashion. The guys bolting them get to choose which holds stay and which go!

>You've got me nailed on one front - I'm even more strongly opposed to
>heavily manufactured low-grade sport routes! Although I've gotta admit
>such routes would be a sight to behold - chipped incut jugs between dinner
>plates.

Gloucester Buckets at Diamond Bay springs to mind! Classic chipped buckets - fun climbing. It was actually my first experience of 'real' sport climbing. Prior to that I was a Frog Buttress crack climber.

Linze

16-May-2011
5:54:11 PM

On 16/05/2011 nmonteith wrote:
you obviously enjoy heavily manufactured glued and chipped
>sport routes on questionable rock

well spotted TND, neil, spicelab is CLEARLY an lover of chipped nonsense!...

so anyway back to the filled chips?? is anyone happy or otherwise that this has occured??


nmonteith

16-May-2011
6:43:36 PM

I can't believe we're having a debate about filling in chipped holds!

Bring back the jugfests at the Glen!!

Linze

16-May-2011
6:54:50 PM

On 16/05/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>I can't believe we're having a debate about filling in chipped holds!
>
i guess you are saying you're in favour then... was it you neil?? ;)

i reckon in this case it is a bit of a shame, the route did go well with the chip... and it is just so bloody pedantic to fill this couple of chips given the amount of nonsense that gets dislodged when putting up a new route in the bluies, a lot of gue is gonna be needed to replace the tonnes of dinner plates!... plus i've never been one to care much about the finer points of climbing ethics (ie top roping thru anchors hehe..) but even I think it looks really ugly at the moment, becasue from the bottom of the crag you can see grey blobs everywhere..

cogsy

16-May-2011
7:58:12 PM

In reply to Lindsay's original question...
Julian Saunders filled the chips... he asked me about it and I am completely happy about it. For the record, I made the chip on the 24 (it was one of the first routes I bolted in the mtns, and it was a bit of a mistake which I am happy to have fixed up). Jules tells me the new move is much better.
The floating line has a much dodgier history. I bolted it but did not chip it. I gave it away after a couple of goes and it was subsequently chipped, as well as a bolt removed and a new anchor drilled.
The "old" glue patches are for the pulled bolt and for one of the chips that the new owner found he didn't need.

It has been done without the big chip, I think first by Scott Walter, and then by others.
Julian decided it was a bit of a travesty, and decided to fill it. He's probably right. Supposedly the grade is still 28 .. it was very soggy for the grade with the chips!!

Linze

16-May-2011
9:42:48 PM

On 16/05/2011 cogsy wrote:

>Jules tells me the new move is much better.

yep, it is pretty cool, and adds a bit of spice to the top of the route...

>It has been done without the big chip, I think first by Scott Walter,
>and then by others.
>Julian decided it was a bit of a travesty, and decided to fill it. He's
>probably right. Supposedly the grade is still 28 .. it was very soggy for
>the grade with the chips!!
>
grade aside, the top now seems lots harder than the rest, which means it is probably less appealing to those that find the new move hard and to those who dont (bc the rest of the route will be doddle)...... oh well...

otherwise, am amazed that that question was answered so quickly... nice one Cogsy

There are 21 messages in this topic.