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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Melbourne (General) (General) (General) [ Melbourne Guide ] 

Author
Richmond Bridge

shortman
7/05/2011
8:00:32 PM
Strangely broke not one, but two small footer holds on the eastern roadside wall at Richmond Bridge today. Didn't realise that bluestone could crumble like it did. One was suprisingly substantial. The one that broke at the northen end of the wall has turned a sloper into a tough little crimper and can be used to pull up from a sit start traversing from left to right.

Anyway, it was kinda weird. 'cause the whole wall just seems so solid.

Miguel75
7/05/2011
9:22:34 PM
Nice work destructor. Sounds like you got some awesome finger strength going on! Remind me not to show you my favorite climbs... ;)
pecheur
7/05/2011
9:28:41 PM
He said they were foot holds, obviously Dan's porked up lots ;p

shortman
7/05/2011
9:33:18 PM
Na, it was my feet!

Was really odd. Blew a hold with my feet on a glue-up along the yarra the week b4 as well. Thinkin that I'm gettin the hang of this usin ya feet thing. Time will tell.

But you can call me the the destructor anytime. I'll try and come up with something better than Super Tuff Teddy Bear for you.

Smiles!

shortman
7/05/2011
9:35:49 PM
On 7/05/2011 pecheur wrote:
>He said they were foot holds, obviously Dan's porked up lots ;p

It's funny ya say this patrick, cause I've lost weight again, but am angrier than ever.....

There's something really wrong with being 6ft8 and weighing under 75kgs.

Miguel75
7/05/2011
10:57:34 PM
At least you guys can read! I might have to return to the 'Derek Zoolander Center For Climbers Who Can't Read Good And Wanna Learn To Do Other Stuff Good Too', where I will re-learn that there's more to life than being really, really ridiculously good-looking!!

Dan I'll have to share my diet tips with you. You'll beef up in no time!

Super tuff teddy bear sounds pretty good actually. Beats what most others call me...


shortman
7/05/2011
11:27:12 PM
On 7/05/2011 Miguel75 wrote:
>At least you guys can read! I might have to return to the 'Derek Zoolander
>Center For Climbers Who Can't Read Good And Wanna Learn To Do Other Stuff
>Good Too', where I will re-learn that there's more to life than being really,
>really ridiculously good-looking!!
>
>Dan I'll have to share my diet tips with you. You'll beef up in no time!
>
>Super tuff teddy bear sounds pretty good actually. Beats what most others
>call me...
>
Is there really more to life than being really really ridiculously good looking?

Mike, I just noticed that you have 888 posts. Does that make you 25% better than the devil?

I'm off to watch Zoolander, again......

For what could possibly be the 888th time.

Ben_E
8/05/2011
7:49:40 AM
On 7/05/2011 shortman wrote:

>Was really odd. Blew a hold with my feet on a glue-up along the yarra
>the week b4 as well. Thinkin that I'm gettin the hang of this usin ya feet
>thing. Time will tell.

The one on the retaining wall 100 meters or so below Dights' falls?

Bit of a worry for me if so, I'd been assuming that the holds on that had been fairly well tested over time and were probably pretty bomber. I've therefore been committing to the top moves with nothing but that grassy slope and, if I'm lucky, a cyclist as a crash pad!

Maybe I should be sticking to the Heidleberg Rd Bridge and/or the lactic factory...

shortman
8/05/2011
9:10:12 AM
Yeah it was on that wall. Was on top rope at the time. A couple of meters from the top. It was a 'key' hold as well. Has made the climb at least grade 11 now. :)

Had climbed it unroped many times b4. My cousin didn't feel comfortable unroped, and since we had gear in the car, he insisted on top roping it. I actually didn't fall, and thought that my foot had just slipped.

Just throw a few slings around the tree at the top. About As bomber as the holds.

Ben_E
8/05/2011
9:55:44 AM
Sigh. Really can't be bothered setting up a TR; the only redeeming features of that bouldering wall are (a) at least it gets you in the open air (to steal the Monty Python line about crucifixion) and (b) it takes all of about a minute to get to on bike from my place.

I'll be a little more circumspect about how high I go on it from now on. The only trouble is that to traverse along the entire length of the wall it is easier to go high at one point...

Given your current track record I couldn't get you to use each of the holds on the wall as a footer so we can weed out any other loose ones, could I? ;-)

shortman
8/05/2011
10:04:43 AM
Ha ha. About to go the convent for breakfast. Will be down there in an hr or 2. See what i can do for ya.

There are 11 messages in this topic.

 

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