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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Butterbox point (Mt Hay) new multipitch abseil
Nick
3/05/2011
6:31:47 PM
Butter box point (Mount Hay) multi-pitch abseil


Driving Directions

Turn off the great western hwy at Leura onto Leura mall road.head North away from the shops and take the second right onto churchill street. Follow this till the end and turn left onto Mt Hay Road. Follow this all the way to the end. Its about 15 kmís and the majority is dirt.


Walking Directions

From the car park at the end of the road, walk down the butterbox canyon exit track. Take the first left at a fork at about 100 meters from the car. After another 400 meters the track start to go down hill and forks below a small cliff line, go left at the fork and follow the track under the cliff line. After about 150 meters as the track starts to get very close to the cliff, there is another fork, follow this to the right for about 30 meters and locate the chains at the edge of the cliff.

Abseils

Pitch 1 is 25 meters to ledge off chains.

Pitch 2 is 35 meters to a small ledge, tending left (facing out) off chains.

Pitch 3 is 40 meters straight down to halfway ledge off chains.

Pitch 4 is 55 meters to a small ledge, tending right (facing out) off slings around trees.

Pitch 5 is 50 meters straight down to base off cliff off chains.

Exit

Walk left and down slightly under the cliff line until you pick up a track after about 400 meters. This is the butterbox canyon exit track. Follow this around under the cliff line until you reach a small sandy cave. Go through this and you are at the rock climb. Locate the bolts above, the climb is fairly easy about grade 8 with 4 bolts. Once at the top keep following the track up the gully and turn left at the saddle. Keep following the track until you go straight past the abseil and back to the car the same way you came in.


Warning!

As this is a new abseil, there is still a lot of loose rock! Be careful and helmets are recommended. As more people do this trip the better it will get!

nmonteith
3/05/2011
7:53:44 PM
Im confused. Is there a climb at the end of all this absquealing?

shortman
3/05/2011
8:07:52 PM
Apparently there is a grade 8 climb with 4 bolts?

Sounds like alot of effort.
Nick
3/05/2011
8:38:18 PM
things to do on rainy days.......just like dry canyoning.
PDRM
3/05/2011
10:00:34 PM
On 3/05/2011 shortman wrote:
>Apparently there is a grade 8 climb with 4 bolts?
>
>Sounds like alot of effort.

Yes and it's horrible and the bolts are bad...

Have led it a number of times on a static.

P

pmonks
4/05/2011
3:55:25 AM
On 3/05/2011 shortman wrote:
>Apparently there is a grade 8 climb with 4 bolts?

That's the Mt Hay Canyon exit route, which is also the typical descent for the established Mt Hay routes (Margarine Ridge etc.).

Perhaps this new abseil route makes it easier / quicker to get into the top end of the canyon? Certainly not worth it for the climbs - the canyon exit route descent only has one (short) abseil.

kuu
30/07/2011
12:53:35 PM
On 3/05/2011 Nick wrote:
>Butter box point (Mount Hay) multi-pitch abseil
>
>Warning!
>
>As this is a new abseil, there is still a lot of loose rock! Be careful
>and helmets are recommended. As more people do this trip the better it
>will get!

If more people do the trip the route will become more worn, and like the over-used (abused?) former Expedition Abseil Route on Mount Banks it then becomes more likely to be closed down by NPWS. It is located within the Grose Wilderness zone of Blue Mountains National Park and thus subject to enhanced protection.
One Day Hero
1/08/2011
12:54:57 AM
On 4/05/2011 pmonks wrote:
>
>Perhaps this new abseil route makes it easier / quicker to get into the
>top end of the canyon?

Ok........lets work through this one together, shall we?

1) There's a new, 5 pitch abseil into the valley.

2) There's a canyon (accessed without abseiling) which then ends up in the valley.

3) You're somehow going to use the abseil into the valley as access to the start of the canyon which is at the rim of the same valley

4) You are a retard!

pmonks
1/08/2011
4:33:10 AM
On 1/08/2011 Fun Gay Hero wrote a particularly weak response:
>On 4/05/2011 pmonks wrote:
>>
>>Perhaps this new abseil route makes it easier / quicker to get into the
>>top end of the canyon?
>
>Ok........lets work through this one together, shall we?

Perhaps you should look up the meaning of the word "perhaps"?

You're slipping FGH...
widewetandslippery
1/08/2011
10:42:06 AM
On 30/07/2011 kuu wrote:
>On 3/05/2011 Nick wrote:
>>Butter box point (Mount Hay) multi-pitch abseil
>>
>>Warning!
>>
>>As this is a new abseil, there is still a lot of loose rock! Be careful
>>and helmets are recommended. As more people do this trip the better it
>>will get!
>
>If more people do the trip the route will become more worn, and like the
>over-used (abused?) former Expedition Abseil Route on Mount Banks it then
>becomes more likely to be closed down by NPWS. It is located within the
>Grose Wilderness zone of Blue Mountains National Park and thus subject
>to enhanced protection.

The other problem with this descent is it sounds like it is above the exit path of Butterbox Canyon which is very popular by canyoners and local business. If loose rock is dislodged from the "abseil root" it has a good chance of effecting this exit pathway. If anyone, particuarly some little tourist princess gets hurt there will be hell to pay.
One Day Hero
1/08/2011
12:39:37 PM
On 1/08/2011 pmonks wrote:
>Perhaps you should look up the m
>aning of the word "perhaps"?
>
>You're slipping FGH...

Sorry, I meant to say "perhaps you're a retard"
Nick
1/08/2011
4:03:47 PM
at least 400mtrs away from the exit track, no loose rocks could land on the track.

ajfclark
1/08/2011
4:14:13 PM
Sounds like a challenge... ;-)
widewetandslippery
1/08/2011
4:32:40 PM
On 1/08/2011 Nick wrote:
>at least 400mtrs away from the exit track, no loose rocks could land on
>the track.

- find that hard to figure. The walk from the canyon is under the cliff and there is not 400m space there or is your root east of the normal exit route rock climb?
Nick
1/08/2011
6:45:16 PM
yes east towards margarine ridge.

Superstu
12/11/2012
9:00:21 AM
I didn't pay much attention to this when it was first posted because I had no idea where it was. Last Sunday I bumbled with a friend up margerine ridge at mt hay (classic grade 15 big long day all trad route in the grose valley) and well... You bump into the last few rap points of this silly abseil.

I kinda liked the fact that there was a bolt-free big all day route at an accessible grade. Not much else like it.

maxdacat
12/11/2012
9:34:59 AM
On 1/08/2011 pmonks wrote:
>On 1/08/2011 Fun Gay Hero wrote a particularly weak response:

That is pure comedy gold! Definitely worth resurrecting this :p

There are 17 messages in this topic.

 

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