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Crag & Route Beta

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Author

"That" nut on Spasm in a Chasm


alrob

11-Jun-2004
5:57:34 PM

Ok. it was a while ago i was at araps with phil (phil_nev) and alyssa, and we jumped on Spasm. cool as route, and was even better as phil had the 'inside info' on the elusive nut placement that protects the final dynamic moves.

Where is this placement exactly? we had a number 9 (yellow) smiley in a horizontal facing sideways behind the first MEGA jug - just after the crux.

however....

Tim (timmah) i heard had placed the nut in a pocket, slightly higher, which we used as a hold. from what i could remember, a nut in that particular pocket would make it extrememly hard to use as a hold.

i know fatboy, you've done it. anyone else out there who has done it, and can shed some light for me?


nmonteith

11-Jun-2004
6:11:13 PM

I don't remember the big nut taking up a vital handhold. It was in a horizontal sort of pocket thing and it sat sideways. Mega bomber - it wasn't runout below or above this piece of trad gear.

dalai

12-Jun-2004
10:51:04 PM

In the pocket it is (can't recall the size). Make the move to jugs above the pocket and place the wire. Not in the way as you are already now past.


alrob

13-Jun-2004
7:07:34 PM

oh. ok then. it just seems that the point that needed protecting was the final dyno, and by placing the nut after this move, just seems strange. anyway, thanks for the info so far. i'll see next time if i can push myself to go that far above the bolt...lol (wimpy boulderer i am!)

dalai

13-Jun-2004
7:22:36 PM

Sorry Al, maybe you can place the wire before the dyno (onsighted this route and can't recall any dynoing anywhere on this climb!!). It will take some of the pocket but still should be enough room.


phil_nev

14-Jun-2004
12:08:23 AM

Al timmy and marty dont mean above the last dyno (big move), its in the pocket that we matched in before hitting the right hand undercling which you pull on to grab the victoey jug.


alrob

14-Jun-2004
12:13:42 PM

yep! i got it now! cheers for that!


timmy

14-Jun-2004
5:51:45 PM

Sorry boys, gotta step in and clear this one up. The nut I ended up trusting was not at the first of the big jugs.

Here's a run down (click back if you haven't done the route and wanting the onsight):

Third bolt is clipped and you have bath hands in the sideways flake. Make the crux going left and up into the undercling. Feet high and up to the big jug. Throw your left foot up around waist height and grab a pocket with your left hand. This is where the nut goes. There is another decent pocket further left, and a small crimp to the right. Grab the right crimp and move your left hand into the far left pocket to place the nut.

Al and Phil, we'll have to all go out there and sort this out....


phil_nev

15-Jun-2004
1:23:15 AM

Thats exactly what i meant timmy... I agree with you u dill....

dalai

15-Jun-2004
8:28:13 AM

3rd bolt?? Is there now another bolt on the climb?

(removed)

15-Jun-2004
10:24:30 AM

There's always been 3 bolts Martin. 1 about 10cm off the deck, 1 above the 1st big horizontal and one protecting the traverse.

FTR: The last move doesn't need to be dynamic if you use the far left pocket. You don't even need to be particularly strong, just a nice big drop knee off the jugs will do the trick.

The nut is bomber and either a 6 or 7 rock will happily fit (slides in to the right). You can place it on lead comfortably.


timmy

15-Jun-2004
11:08:28 PM

You confused me a bit. You said before the undercling...


alrob

16-Jun-2004
10:59:20 AM

im sorry! by starting this thread, i have thrown all knowledgable people into confusion

dalai

16-Jun-2004
2:40:22 PM

Al, why the questions about routes!! Not straying back to the dark side??


phil_nev

16-Jun-2004
3:22:59 PM

Fatboy, for the record, i think for timmy there is no choice to be dynamic. I think he said he had to dyno three times on that route...


timmy

16-Jun-2004
5:54:13 PM

Thanks Phil, I knew you'd be sympathetic......


alrob

16-Jun-2004
6:06:20 PM

On 16/06/2004 dalai wrote:
>Al, why the questions about routes!! Not straying back to the dark side??

well, how else is a hardcore boulderer meant to climb routes? endurance? technique? hell no!! cheating all the way!

dalai

18-Jun-2004
2:30:23 PM

The question Al is why bother wasting your time roped climbing!!

Jark

23-Jun-2004
9:38:37 PM

The real question is why isn't it a bolt???

Stupidest placement in the world in my opinion, sport route, all bolts and 1 tricky (if it's at your limit) placement at the crux.

Only in Victoria!

(I know this will stir things up but s#%t happens)

thank god some-one finally saw the light and put the bolt back in the start of Slopin too!


shaggy

24-Jun-2004
12:10:13 AM

I actually have to agree with Jark on this one, we have too many climbs that pretend to be 'sport' climbs, with 5 - 6 perfect beautiful stainless bolts, only to have to take a set of wires, or a cam, etc, for one placement. This cannot be isolated to: climb is unprotectable where the bolts are with good placement elswhere, as several of the climbs I'm thinking of actualy have decent natural placments where some of the first bolts are. Lets be realistic, if you want to have a sport climb, bolt it, if you want to have a trad climb, leave it and only put bolts in where absolutely nessisary.

There are 35 messages in this topic.