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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 35
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VIC Arapiles The Pharos (General) (General) [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Author
"That" nut on Spasm in a Chasm
gfdonc
24/06/2004
1:13:00 PM
What?
Can't believe I'm reading posts that advocate to place a bolt when there's a perfectly good wire/cam placement nearby.
If you have trouble clipping at your limit then preplace gear. Lack of climbing ability is not a fallback rationale for drilling unnecessary holes in the rock.
I'm yet to see a definition of "sport route" but suspect it involves 100% bolt protection and "not bold". By this definition a single wire placement makes it not a 'sport route'. So what? It's still climbing.
- Steve

Joe
24/06/2004
1:33:07 PM
Here we go again... any chance of getting some statistics on repeated arguments on this website??

alrob
24/06/2004
6:10:03 PM
"WOW!! sport vs trad ethic spray has gone up 13% this past month, with major arguments attributed to mrpickle, slushie and san_dy. Lets keep it up people!"

James
24/06/2004
6:24:49 PM
who wrote this??

>Mate I'm deadly serious, we can't bolt the piss out of everything!
>It seems that the bold climber is in danger of becoming extinct, we need to look after >their habitat.
>There is a generation of pussies being bread in it's place.
>Long live the runout and death route for those that are inclined!!

Jark
25/06/2004
10:47:01 AM
Alright then James smart a$$, pull the first three bolts out then and we'll do it on gear!

I have no problem with bold or sport routes, Spasam is however neither.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
25/06/2004
10:56:11 AM
On 24/06/2004 James wrote:
>who wrote this??
>
>>Mate I'm deadly serious, we can't bolt the piss out of everything!
>>It seems that the bold climber is in danger of becoming extinct, we need
>to look after >their habitat.
>>There is a generation of pussies being bread in it's place.
>>Long live the runout and death route for those that are inclined!!
>
Jark did on 28/05/04 12:44:12, & I agree with him (in an out of context way)!
James
25/06/2004
5:32:14 PM
chill out Jark, I just thought that Spasm, apparently being 1 bolt short of a "sport" route, could be considered by some as being "bold" instead...

timmy
27/06/2004
6:20:11 PM
Just got back from Spasm... got my ass kicked again...

For some reason, I just couldn't get that damned wire in solidly, and got pumped out and fell. On the second attempt, I managed to get past the throw on the dodgy piece. On lowering, I was amazed at how well a #3 RP slotted in and sat. Chris even took a decent drop on it (the look on his face waiting for it to pop was priceless).

Next time for sure...

IdratherbeclimbingM9
28/06/2004
7:54:13 AM
I've never been there but it sounds like you only related half the adventure.
The other half would be cleaning a 'fallen on' RP3 from a pumpy position to place, if neither of you topped out.
deadpoint
28/06/2004
10:30:15 AM
That's what gets called a fixed wire

timmy
28/06/2004
6:32:05 PM
That's what i thought too, but a bit of levering, and a big nut as a hammer managed to do the trick. It wasn't a big fall as the RP is at waist height, more of solid plop down on it...

IdratherbeclimbingM9
1/07/2004
11:19:22 AM
On 28/06/2004 deadpoint wrote:
>That's what gets called a fixed wire
Obviously you are not a gear freak deadpoint, ... else you would go to great lengths / adventure to retrieve your gear so it doesn't become 'fixed'.

Paulie
3/07/2004
12:29:54 AM
...or booty
deadpoint
4/07/2004
4:34:25 PM
On 1/07/2004 A5iswhereitsat wrote:
>On 28/06/2004 deadpoint wrote:
>>That's what gets called a fixed wire
>Obviously you are not a gear freak deadpoint, ... else you would go to
>great lengths / adventure to retrieve your gear so it doesn't become 'fixed'.

Never lost a piece of gear to the rock, have left gear behind to bail, but have always got out any thing that went in on my shift.

Booty has included

2 * Brand new slings with price label still attached
2 * hexies
2 * nuts (very, very new)
5 * nuts of varying age
1 * Reverso
1 * Stich plate
2 * Alloy biners
1 * Steel biner
3 * quickdraws
1 * Tent (yep a tent)
1 * Laptop computer(pieces) and Bag (ok)
1 * Car tyre and rim (this sucker came over the edge while we were on the climb)
1 * Tape recorder


deadpoint
12/07/2004
9:15:34 AM
Laptop and bag were at Mt Alexandra, Mittagong about a year ago.

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 35
There are 35 messages in this topic.

 

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