Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
FREIGHT FREE
in Australia

DMM: Viper Size S (2013 model as shown) Padded Adjustable Harness, 5 Gear Loops Fits: Waist 64-79cm Legs: 45-59cm   $89.00
32% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Poll Option Votes Graph
Yes 37
86% 
No 6
14% 

 Page 3 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 83
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Nowra Guide Book

hangdog
1/02/2011
11:22:18 PM

>That's a fairly warped view of australian climbing history!
>
>Carrigan, Claw, Shepards et al were far removed from bearded conservatives
>by the late 70's........they were rap-bolting, dogging, and wearing lycra
>at least as early as anyone else in the world. 'Sport crags' such as Mt.
>York and Cosmic were more or less the same deal as Thompson's in its first
>incarnation, and predated it by 10yrs. Glenn Tempest invented the Gallery
>as a sport crag at the same time that Nowra was going up. Canberra climbers
>such as Law-Smith, Carter, Barten, and Bull were doing hard sport routes
>in the ACT and Bungonia before Nowra was invented.
>
>Nowra didn't represent any sort of leap forward in climbing style, just
>a slight extension of what was pioneered in the 80's.

Here we go again!!

Mt York and Cosmic where not even close to what Thompsons Point was or is. It was such a different scene down there. They were bolting cracks for Fu...ks sake. Everything was bolted. Yes they didnt invent sport climbing but they definately created a sport crag. Thompsons Point and surrounds was really the first pure (probably not the best term) sport crag.
And yes most of the climbing population were bearded trad conservatives who viewed bolted routes with contempt and certainly(at the time) didnt like what was happening in Nowra.
One Day Hero
1/02/2011
11:45:58 PM
On 1/02/2011 hangdog wrote:
>
>Mt York and Cosmic where not even close to what Thompsons Point was

Really? If the current redevelopments at Cosmic go ahead, I think it will be exactly the same as Thomsons........the difference back then? carrots vs fixed hangers + easy walkoffs vs loweroffs is all I can see......and as I was happy to fall on carrots (and happy to walk), the difference in concept seemed quite trivial. When I first started going to Thompsons, we used to pack half a dozen cams and a bunch of bolt plates........and we used it all.

> It was such a different scene down there. They were bolting cracks
>for Fu...ks sake. Everything was bolted.

Which cracks? There's still a crack of Giles' and Crunch's near Cowboy Junkies which is unbolted, the crack on very nice wall only got bolted a few years ago. Orca still has gear placements, Betty Blue had a peg and gear for years, Gunbarrel Highway still needed gear when I first climbed down there............I realise that it was mostly sport climbing down there, but check out Gibralter in the ACT (a mostly sport climbing crag from the mid 80's)

>And yes most of the climbing population were bearded trad conservatives
>who viewed bolted routes with contempt and certainly(at the time) didnt
>like what was happening in Nowra.

That was not my experience of the mid 90's, I saw lots of people who were happy to divide their time beween sport, trad and mixed routes..........I don't remember a whole ton of beards.

I think that most of the controversy surrounding Nowra came from the fact that the young guys developing it were happy to rile old coots up with a bit of spray. The actual development of the crags was much less radical than the idea of telling the previous generation to get fuched.

hangdog
1/02/2011
11:52:58 PM

>don't remember a whole ton of beards.

you are right maybe not too many beards.
One Day Hero
2/02/2011
12:15:11 AM
Anyway, all this armchair analysis seems a little dumb when the bloke who discovered Thompsons as a crag is a Chocky regular.

Wide, would you mind telling us about the development of Thommo's and what you think it represented for climbing in Oz?
One Day Hero
2/02/2011
2:46:17 AM
On 1/02/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>
>Famous last words! There has been at least 6 new (awesome) routes established
>at Windjammer in the last couple of years. Plenty more to come...

correction; 6 new routes, with awesomeness varying from reasonably awesome down to not-so-awesome. Not much space left on Windjammer now, please don't start gridding it with stupid diagonal linkups! Most of the existing routes are good straight lines up weaknesses, don't pollute the wall with 15bolt, no star "fillers"!

Tianjara is far enough from the rest of Nowra to warrant its own guide. Its shit enough to make it unworthy of a printed edition. Just bang all the boring, sandy, overgraded new routes on the web, and people with no taste will be free to climb there to their heart's content.
widewetandslippery
2/02/2011
7:04:03 AM
On 1/02/2011 hangdog wrote:
>Isn't it up to the parents to self censor if they are worried about what
>the kids think. And when Joe Hero falls off Cowboy Junkies and swears his
>Fu...ing head off who censors that.
>I don't agree with the names of some of the climbs but i don't believe
>that editors should be censoring climb names. There are many examples
>of climb names that may well be regarded as offensive that haven't been
>censored. Wank Wank Spurt springs to mind.
>

I thoght it was Wank Spurt without the additional Wank?
widewetandslippery
2/02/2011
7:11:11 AM
On 1/02/2011 hangdog wrote:
>
>
>>And Hangdog, perhaps if you really feel the wrong decision was made,
>you
>>could publish a small update detailling the original names. It is possible
>>that you may find that you don't want to be associated with them either
>>when you find out what they were.
>
>can somebody please direct me to these original racist names. short of
>going through the guidebook which apparently had them edited out.
>i doubt that the publishing of climb names associated with others would
>bother me. they are just climb names from another time chosen by someone
>else. and as i mentioned before i may or may not like them.

Hospital Rocks was originally known as Boong Crag and had boong themed names. They I believe were altered for the guide.

rodw
2/02/2011
8:11:56 AM
You prove my point ODH (thanks)...even now there are different views on the what history should be bestowed on Nowra...changing names etc in guide books for the "good" of the public can only furthur damage it.

hipdos
2/02/2011
8:18:00 AM
On 2/02/2011 rodw wrote:
>You prove my point ODH (thanks)...even now there are different views on
>the what history should be bestowed on Nowra...changing names etc in guide
>books for the "good" of the public can only furthur damage it.
>
>

But I guess Hospital Rocks won't revert back to 'Boong Crag'...

nmonteith
2/02/2011
8:21:39 AM
On 2/02/2011 One Day Hero wrote:
>correction; 6 new routes, with awesomeness varying from reasonably awesome
>down to not-so-awesome. Not much space left on Windjammer now, please don't
>start gridding it with stupid diagonal linkups! Most of the existing routes
>are good straight lines up weaknesses, don't pollute the wall with 15bolt,
>no star "fillers"!

I should have been more clearer. I meant there was plenty of new routes to do at Point Perp, not on Windjammer Wall. I think you would be struggling to find any no star fillers on that wall though!

tnd
2/02/2011
9:05:10 AM
On 2/02/2011 rodw wrote:
>You prove my point ODH (thanks)...even now there are different views on
>the what history should be bestowed on Nowra...changing names etc in guide
>books for the "good" of the public can only furthur damage it.

You're always banging on about political correctness Rod, which just shows you spend too much time listening to Alan Jones and John Laws. It's no modern phenomenon, conservatives have been complaining about it for decades and really it doesn't exist except in their heads.

The simple fact as I understand it is that the other Rod (Young) didn't want to publish a book with a bunch of racist epithets and chose to edit them. His book, his decision. Being an editor's great, you get to be an autocrat. That doesn't make the climbs any more difficult to find or alter their quality. It's the editor's decision what to include in his book. If you want to document the old names, feel free to produce your own.
widewetandslippery
2/02/2011
9:17:46 AM
On 2/02/2011 hipdos wrote:
>On 2/02/2011 rodw wrote:
>>You prove my point ODH (thanks)...even now there are different views
>on
>>the what history should be bestowed on Nowra...changing names etc in
>guide
>>books for the "good" of the public can only furthur damage it.
>>
>>
>
I still rfer to it as boong crag
>But I guess Hospital Rocks won't revert back to 'Boong Crag'...
grangrump
2/02/2011
9:20:58 AM
On 2/02/2011 tnd wrote:
>The simple fact as I understand it is that the other Rod (Young) didn't
>want to publish a book with a bunch of racist epithets and chose to edit
>them. His book, his decision. Being an editor's great, you get to be an
>autocrat. That doesn't make the climbs any more difficult to find or alter
>their quality. It's the editor's decision what to include in his book.
Um yes and no. As a guidebook editor you're much more open to racial vilification charges than the people who named the routes, like it or not. This would be rather more painful than a Chockstone lynching...
widewetandslippery
2/02/2011
9:27:57 AM
What grangrump said. There is a thread on cragx where I made a smartarse comment regarding changing route names and got a strong worded reply from rod y (who I know) pretty much saying that. There are differentiations between net and printed converse. The legal course of vilification would be an ugly one.

rodw
2/02/2011
9:37:41 AM
On 2/02/2011 tnd wrote:
>You're always banging on about political correctness Rod, which just shows
>you spend too much time listening to Alan Jones and John Laws. It's no
>modern phenomenon, conservatives have been complaining about it for decades
>and really it doesn't exist except in their heads.

Incorrect never listen to em...and Im hardly a conservative.

hangdog
2/02/2011
9:52:47 AM

>>
>
>I thoght it was Wank Spurt without the additional Wank?

No you are one wank short according to the index in the 2007 guide

nmonteith
2/02/2011
9:57:59 AM
On 2/02/2011 hangdog wrote:
>No you are one wank short according to the index in the 2007 guide

I presume you mean 1997 guide?

hangdog
2/02/2011
10:02:27 AM
Nope 2007 blue mountains climbing 2007 edition

nmonteith
2/02/2011
10:18:32 AM
Sorry, i just presumed you were talking about Nowra.
dalai
2/02/2011
11:35:49 AM
This is Chockstone Neil. Just because the topic title clearly is about the Nowra guidebook, you should know by now that by the third post it will be about anything but...*

*I must say I forgot this and also thought the discussion was still about Nowra.

 Page 3 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 83
There are 83 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints