Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
FREIGHT FREE
in Australia

Black Diamond: 10mm DYNEX: 60cm (24") Runner. (Open round sling) Great for making "extender" quick-draws. IMO   $10.00
28% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Poll Option Votes Graph
Yes 37
86% 
No 6
14% 

 Page 2 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 83
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Nowra Guide Book
hipdos
1/02/2011
1:21:54 PM
There is another mystery - will the route names be censored...
grangrump
1/02/2011
2:15:03 PM
On 1/02/2011 hipdos wrote:
>There is another mystery - will the route names be censored...
Not much mystery, unless you're rich enough to defend racial vilification charges

rodw
1/02/2011
3:31:38 PM
On 1/02/2011 BundyBear wrote:
>Why should there be any guide books then.

I think I wasnt really clear what i meant (My bad)...more while your developing an area why do you want it in a guide book?... Nowra is pretty much established like to no development....TJF is still very much in development...the info is out there already as to its location...why put out a guide book that will practically be obsolete B4 it hits the shelves...and have hordes decend to break the serenity...you won't be able to hear ya drill with all the people yelling "take" around ya.

>I only want my new routes in the guide so I can get paid for the RBs like
>the guys from Boganville ?? :-)

No luck there bundy......I hear Rod's giving all the royalties to Qld rebolting effort anyway since all the bolts washed out of kangaroo point :)

nmonteith
1/02/2011
3:41:49 PM
On 1/02/2011 rodw wrote:
>I think I wasnt really clear what i meant (My bad)...more while your developing
>an area why do you want it in a guide book?... Nowra is pretty much established
>like to no development....TJF isnt still very much in development...the
>info is out there already as to its location...why put out a guide book
>the will practically be obsolete B4 it hits the shelves...and have hordes
>decend to break the serenity...you won't be able to hear ya drill with
>all the people yelling "take" around ya.

As mentioned previously there are several crags that have been finished. Your point would be the same as saying Shipley is gridbolted so therefor there is no new routes to do in the Blue Mountains. Just because Mr Hill keeps 'discovering' new walls that others have ignored doesn't mean the area shouldn't be covered. You also have to realize that its been 10 years between guides, so if it's not in this addition - we will have to wait for another 10 years before it will make it in to the next one!
grangrump
1/02/2011
3:43:04 PM
On 1/02/2011 rodw wrote:
>I hear Rod's giving all the royalties to Qld
>rebolting effort anyway since all the bolts washed out of kangaroo point
>:)
Who needs bolts when deep water soloing?

hangdog
1/02/2011
3:50:40 PM
>>There is another mystery - will the route names be censored...
>Not much mystery, unless you're rich enough to defend racial vilification
>charges
Which ones vilify other races?
Why are climb names censored quite readily by guidebook editors and great consideration and debate is given to the first ascentionists feelings when it comes to the style of rebolting.( Although i guess this probably isnt applicable at Nowra)

nmonteith
1/02/2011
4:00:42 PM
On 1/02/2011 hangdog wrote:
>>>There is another mystery - will the route names be censored...

Nowra (especially Thommos) does seem to be one of the more kid friendly crags in Australia. It's quite common to see a bunch of pre-teen crushers swarming over the crag on a busy weekend. I guess trying to explain Murdoch the Horse Fµcker could be a little problematic.
grangrump
1/02/2011
4:29:37 PM
On 1/02/2011 hangdog wrote:
>>>There is another mystery - will the route names be censored...
...
>Which ones vilify other races?
>Why are climb names censored quite readily by guidebook editors and great
>consideration and debate is given to the first ascentionists feelings when
>it comes to the style of rebolting.( Although i guess this probably isnt
>applicable at Nowra)
If you recall the original names, the Nowra guidebook is fairly anodyne; I cant think of any other guidebook where the names have been so extensively moderated.
I doubt that the first ascentionist feelings were a significant consideration.
And, unlike Neil, I wouldn't worry about kid sensitivity if I was writing the guide.

hangdog
1/02/2011
4:41:07 PM
Isn't it up to the parents to self censor if they are worried about what the kids think. And when Joe Hero falls off Cowboy Junkies and swears his Fu...ing head off who censors that.
I don't agree with the names of some of the climbs but i don't believe that editors should be censoring climb names. There are many examples of climb names that may well be regarded as offensive that haven't been censored. Wank Wank Spurt springs to mind.

nmonteith
1/02/2011
4:46:52 PM
I'm not in the pro-censoring camp - I can just appreciate why it may have been done. I would prefer the original colorful names be kept.
oberon
1/02/2011
7:16:58 PM
My two cents worth - although usually I would agree that names should be left as is, in this case I think Rod made the right call to leave out a collection of particularly unpleasant racist names.

And Hangdog, perhaps if you really feel the wrong decision was made, you could publish a small update detailling the original names. It is possible that you may find that you don't want to be associated with them either when you find out what they were.
hipdos
1/02/2011
7:42:36 PM
I'm gonna have to dig out the old guide books to find this racist stuff. All I remember is a large number of porn movie titles.
Oberon
1/02/2011
7:45:55 PM
I may be wrong but I think they were new routes when Rod put his guide together, so they might not be in anything older than that.

rodw
1/02/2011
8:06:38 PM
Most names were given due to the influences at the time...just because its sounds racist doesn't technically mean it is actually being racist. Some were inspired by Ice t and body count, others by what was heard while playing video games...others a reflection of the youth of the era who were putting up routes and the influences around them....taken in today's PC environment a lot of people view in shock and horror of "how could you"...but to censor now is to delete a large part of what Australian climbing was back then and shame on you.

Nowra was the new era of climbing...developed by a new breed of climbers removed from the general bearded conservative traditional climber before them. They went to the US, saw what the world of sport climbing had to offer and arrived back into Australia with a big bag of rawls bolts and a vision. A vision very much different to what Australia climbing scene viewed at the time as the norm. Its not a vision you have to agree with but either way its now a part of Australian climbing history and should be preserved.

Tis a sad day when this sport must bow down the political correctness crap that is prevalent today rather than viewing it as a part of climbing history in Australia and leaving it as is.

Nowra was developed before climbing gym were the norm, before climbing forums were prevalent and when climbing by the general public was viewed as an outsider sport done by social misfits that no one understood..and it's a shame to water down our history just because a few individuals in the new greater climbing community might be offended.

hipdos
1/02/2011
8:50:09 PM
On 1/02/2011 Oberon wrote:
>I may be wrong but I think they were new routes when Rod put his guide
>together, so they might not be in anything older than that.

You are probably right - climbs like Trigga Nigga, etc.

My mention of censorship was more in relation to climbs at Thompsons like Murdoch, which had the full name in the Rock guide, and right next to Murdoch there was Young, Dumb and Full of Cum (A great name in a Nowra kind of way!) that was changed to Young and Dumb.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
1/02/2011
8:50:50 PM
Pretty well summed up rodw.

>it's a shame to water down our history just because a few individuals in the new greater climbing community might be offended.

~> one of the negatives of the greater communication technology of today, in my opinion, is the political correctness spinoff that warps original history...
martym
1/02/2011
10:57:13 PM
On 1/02/2011 hipdos wrote:

>there was Young, Dumb and Full of Cum

Reference to Point Break with Keanu Reeves! (1991)

can we start a new "guess the history of the route name"??
One Day Hero
1/02/2011
11:00:44 PM
On 1/02/2011 rodw wrote:
>Nowra was the new era of climbing...developed by a new breed of climbers
>removed from the general bearded conservative traditional climber before
>them. They went to the US, saw what the world of sport climbing had to
>offer and arrived back into Australia with a big bag of rawls bolts and
>a vision.

That's a fairly warped view of australian climbing history!

Carrigan, Claw, Shepards et al were far removed from bearded conservatives by the late 70's........they were rap-bolting, dogging, and wearing lycra at least as early as anyone else in the world. 'Sport crags' such as Mt. York and Cosmic were more or less the same deal as Thompson's in its first incarnation, and predated it by 10yrs. Glenn Tempest invented the Gallery as a sport crag at the same time that Nowra was going up. Canberra climbers such as Law-Smith, Carter, Barten, and Bull were doing hard sport routes in the ACT and Bungonia before Nowra was invented.

Nowra didn't represent any sort of leap forward in climbing style, just a slight extension of what was pioneered in the 80's.

hangdog
1/02/2011
11:03:57 PM


>And Hangdog, perhaps if you really feel the wrong decision was made, you
>could publish a small update detailling the original names. It is possible
>that you may find that you don't want to be associated with them either
>when you find out what they were.

can somebody please direct me to these original racist names. short of going through the guidebook which apparently had them edited out.
i doubt that the publishing of climb names associated with others would bother me. they are just climb names from another time chosen by someone else. and as i mentioned before i may or may not like them.

hangdog
1/02/2011
11:08:14 PM
On 1/02/2011 rodw wrote:
>Most names were given due to the influences at the time...just because
>its sounds racist doesn't technically mean it is actually being racist.
>Some were inspired by Ice t and body count, others by what was heard while
>playing video games...others a reflection of the youth of the era who were
>putting up routes and the influences around them....taken in today's PC
>environment a lot of people view in shock and horror of "how could you"...but
>to censor now is to delete a large part of what Australian climbing was
>back then and shame on you.
>
>Nowra was the new era of climbing...developed by a new breed of climbers
>removed from the general bearded conservative traditional climber before
>them. They went to the US, saw what the world of sport climbing had to
>offer and arrived back into Australia with a big bag of rawls bolts and
>a vision. A vision very much different to what Australia climbing scene
>viewed at the time as the norm. Its not a vision you have to agree with
>but either way its now a part of Australian climbing history and should
>be preserved.
>
>Tis a sad day when this sport must bow down the political correctness
>crap that is prevalent today rather than viewing it as a part of climbing
>history in Australia and leaving it as is.
>
>Nowra was developed before climbing gym were the norm, before climbing
>forums were prevalent and when climbing by the general public was viewed
>as an outsider sport done by social misfits that no one understood..and
>it's a shame to water down our history just because a few individuals in
>the new greater climbing community might be offended.

Finally someone says what needed to be said. Well said(or written)


 Page 2 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 83
There are 83 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints